mjrstar

Yup. I have one in ohaupo if you want.

Would pay to recheck tappets, then try running it bit leaner if you have good fresh fuel in it. Also check dizzy is advancing, i normally just mark the crank pulley at 11mm increments as a rough 10 degrees and watch it climb with the timing light as you rev it. EDIT: Do you have a good solid earthing lead for the engine, and also have you checked to ensure you have the +ve and -ve wires the right way on the coil.

If it's a sealed box I can't imagine the 6x9's lasting too long with the pressure of the sub...

I run my evo at about 11.6 at full boost, i wonder if you run too much premix / oil it could put your wideband readings off? Also any old needle will do just fine, so long as it's fatter everywhere than your current one.

sounds like you need to whip out the file and take a few thou off the needle on the bottom 2/3rds

Hey Ed, If there is a chance you could put a 3rd row of clear-lite in the Roof I would suggest you do it, I wish I had put more in the roof of my shed for overcast days.. (I might still get someone in to pull some of the iron off and switch it out for clear panels)

I'm still convinced it looks tops as it is. I it was me I’d roll a second set of 15's with some semi slicks for the occasional leisurely lap at Hampton.

I'd say if it's anything like my mini it'll just be every little rubish push together connection coming loose and falling off.. If I was you I would be hesitant to re-wire the whole car, I would find someone what is mildly electrically savvy to check all the connections. And like mutiny said earthing in behind the dash could be a bit rubbish. Also check fuses there should be a little black panel in behind where your red air horns are.

http://www.raceenginesnz.com/Classic-Cars.html This guy does the hilux modification stuff.

^^ correct open vs LSD bearings are different... but luckily with the adjustable side/preload nuts it's pretty easy to set up the backlash.

I run a 3.9 hilux in my starlet, it makes things scary at 245kph, I had a 4.3 in it before that which was good for around 220kph. I believe there is a rare 3.7 (ish) ratio available but this would probably not be that great for accelleration on a n/a 2 litre.

I'm a big fan of the master cylinder upgrade, have a think about finding a 15/16 or 1'' master, it'll give you a nice solid high pedal.

I had dramas with the factory 1ggze coils / leads causing spark to break down at high boost. I switched to mitsi diamante coils and a set of generic leads for less than a hundred bucks ( or the price of one new plug land from Toyota). 330cc rings a bell in the injector department (don't quote me on that though), I run a set of vr4 440cc ones in my one now. My car was happy at 20 psi /245 wheel kw.(Turbo though not s/c)

i got my moulded mini carpet from "basis" in Renwick a thousand years ago.. it's lasted pretty well and has the pad in the drivers footwell etc..

Offtopic but this thing does similar times to my starlet at pukekohe.

My mini is pretty well modified (1330cc, with kent 296 cam and stage 4 head etc.....) but it is epically slow compared to the other cars in my garage.. Still a bit of fun though. It's up against my 230 wheel kilowatt evo 4 and my 245 wheel KW bugeye starlet. In reality if you want to go fast don't bother trying to do it in a mini...

Fuel piping: Mine is about 4 inches above the subframe which seems fine.

nice work, You will need at least a short bit of flexible hose for the fuel line, otherwise the constant rocking/vibration from the engine will work harden/crack the solid fuel line.

Yeah italian tuneup = take it for some high load runs to build up a decent bit of heat... the closest hill would be up the motorway towards albany but could be a bit failburger if the car doesn't want to play the game, there is that sweet straight past the panelbeater that goes around the back of the airfield towards riverhead which would be ok..

option A: buy an expandable CV boot which does not require the removal of the ends? option B: the likelyhood is that there will be a circular retaining ring and if you set the axle up in a vise pointing downwards a good square-on hit (not that easy) SHOULD pop then end away from the axle. option c: try and split the ends (is there a jacking bolt hole) if not drill one.

give the plugs a good clean, and take it for an italian tune up.

You can get the engine bay reasonably tidy for bugger all time / money. I didn't bother taking the subframe out of mine, there isn't much chance of rust etc around the front end. Now is a good time to do a few of the simple things whilst the motor is out, replace the nasty bypass coolant hose, timing cover gasket, crank seals etc.. clutch hose check the flexible portion of the fuel supply and have a look at the rubber in the engine mounts..

my 1st attempt at you-tubing... not too exciting but it gives a bit of an idea of what the transmission sounds like..

Well i took the car out for a hoon and a bit of road tuning and it became apparent I was going to have to do something about the lack of clutch pedal, so off came the slave for a stern talking to, and thankfully it's playing the game now. (fingers crossed). so the thing now has more haul-arse than it's ever had before, but sadly it's a long way off keeping up with the other machines in my garage. But the box is pretty sweet, and the motor is pulling stronger to higher RPM than it wanted to do before, i have done some minor sanding to the carb needle, but i think it would benefit from some work on the ignition curve. I'm semi tempted to lock the dizzy at 25-28 ish degrees and see how it performs, also think it'd pay to try and figure out exactly how much advance it's running. Any way enough typing nonsense.. So it's far from show spec but as it'll see some real road use there is no point on going silly... No plans to do too much more to it, probably try and track down a better air filter for it as the foam is about stuffed after 10 years of neglect, and also have a bit of a tinker with the ignition timing as mentioned above. (your thoughts please)

well the electrical side of things seem OK.. but the the engine seems to be after a bit more fuel in the top end so I'd say some re-profiling of the needle is in order.. Any suggestions on where to find some decent measurements / starting point on how much meat to take off the needle?? Currently running a BBC needle on the HIF44. I will probably rob a few ideas of this chap. http://www.terryhunt.co.uk/mini/pics/te ... b/pics.htm