mjrstar

Pretty sure most of the associated bad stigma is speculation / carry over form the old 2.5 that had an appetite for cylinder heads. Just get one and hoon around in some mud.

^^ I had assumed it's kosher as / well under control, I was more thinking out loud / general rambling. These dude will build them in their sleep no doubt.

^^ agree with this.. within reason, I hired one recently(my own one was stolen) and due to epic draw-bar length it was very lazy to switch direction, made it irritating to do a 90 degree turn in a confined area. Also axle placement is paramount to make a trailer tow nicely when empty and laden. Mine was around 20-25kg's of draw-bar weight when hooked up.. the hassle with galving is taking it to the shop, a stripped trailer is a bit difficult to handle / transport for your average joe. I borrowed my mates (smaller) trailer and it was fairly dodgy/a bit of a mission..

keen to have a line up of this weapon vs my bugeye once completed.. keep up the good work, it looks like you are doing a thorough job.

All I'll say at this stage is that the search for suitable donor parts is underway..

^ yeah it's worth a laugh and the occasional FFFFUUUUUU moment.. the worst bit is I'm ready to start another project and the idea I have is probably just about as insane as this...

Agreed, (although not so sure that ridiculousness is a real word). It doesn't even have a purpose, can't drive it in the rain, and it's not really track ready and it sure isn't road legal The only useful thing it does is remind me that my other cars are slow...

Bugger, won't be able to make the 2nd.. The mini could have done with a hoon to extract the cobwebs.. I have a friend who works at the C&B and the last few times i have been there the food was average/shithouse.. The helm could be another option? although more choice will make decision making impossible.

maybe someone has stolen the flywheel.. ok, so in all seroius-ness that gear looks pretty sweet to me, I'd clean it up a get the gear to move out freely, have also had this occur where a tired battery fails to get enough momentum happening to get the gear to throw out properly...

What flavour GSR are we talking here..

I had a bit of a fiddle with the new gearbox on the bench, looks to have been freshly put together, layshaft appears to be brand new or close to it and the rest seems to be in good nick. I'm not too sure what else I can check out other than chuck it in each gear and spin it over. (I'm a bit of a gearbox novice) To prevent pictureless update...

Also interested in the mini, I had toyed with the turbo idea on an off with my mini..

I made a pretty decent axle puller/slide hammer type arrangement out of a long bolt and a piece of 2'' diameter galv pipe, worked a treat for pulling the output shaft out of the transfer case on my evo...me so maybe you could look something similar mixed with Todd's awesome drawing... In case you have no imagination of what the piece of 2'' pipe looks like... note output shaft attached hanging off the far end.

^^ may not be too late yet... and...

I remember back in the old days fiddling with a colour-tune to tweak the carb on my mini, not quite as scientific as a wideband though... might be some useful info here even if you don't use a colour-tune kit.. http://www.etoolcart.com/manual/G4074_I ... nglish.pdf

sounds like you have a plan, i didn't see much in the way of knock detection mentioned. if i was you I'd bump fuel up by 5-10% from about 5psi onwards and make sure it's not running mega timing above 5000rpm/12psi and the engine should survive nicely. I like around 11.6-11.7 : 1 a/f at full load, i suspect things would not last too long if thrashed in the 13:1 zone. I also aim for a cruise tune in the high 15's (off boost). By not mashing the loud pedal you should be able to stay out of the "danger" boost level.

looking good, did you do any more investigation as to where the rest of the horsepowers are hiding?

At 1.5mm wall thickness you could just about roll something up out of sheet??

I will most likely try something like this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Building-renov ... 451471.htm unless anyone can find info on some real good stuff..

Totally Agree Mr KK, I am not suggesting scratch building a 3'' dia master and expecting the best braking performance, but I still believe with any OEM Master Cylinder used under a normal ratio pedal you will not get to the point where braking performance is deminished due to massive displacement Master cylinder. Be it used on drums, opposed piston calipers, or sliding calipers all which have a slightly different appetite for fluid. Well unless you had an amazingly weak leg with no muscles etc.. Also I suspect the brakes will "soften" up slightly if a vacuum booster is used.

Have purchased a straight cut close ration box, just in case there was not enough noise coming from under the bonnet as it was, also sourced a new/secondhand idler gear casing.. shouldn't be too many more bits of the puzzle required to do the cam and gearbox change other than a few litres of sealant to slow the oil leaks/flow.

Yeah keen to do the paint thing but want a decent quality product hat doesn't require yearly re-coats, anyone seen some good stuff that last well in a workshop or whatever?? also proper prep for the concrete, I'm thinking some sort of acid etch?

You might be able to run a boaring bar/ correct sized long shank drillbit down the inside depending on just how long the tube needs to be?

Agreed with cletus you will need to use both ports, blocking off 1 port will just allow pressure to build in the blocked off portion of the m/c and you will end up with bugger all/no braking performance from the port which is in use. Also basically for a road car there is no such thing as a master cylinder which is too big. The bigger they are the higher and firmer the pedal will be (which is awesome)