BlownCorona

ill take a video once we've timed the engine and got it running on the maps and vaguely tuned, currently i cant wait to drive it.

that is 100% what i assumed is happening, the last map was band aid fixing the issue it had. in other megasquirt news. today at work we got our v12 mercedes sl600 AMG race car up and running on ms3x. i put together the start up tune and it fired up first pop once we got the crank trigger sorted. so i was very proud and super stoked. the exhaust it pretty open and it sounds fucking ruthless. same engine as the first Pagani Zonda. hopefully we can get it finished and out to the trackday on wednesday and get some tune into that too,

i read them ages ago when i first setup the map but have probably forgotten it all, will give it another read now. but i hadn't really got a good chance to drive the car other than some worried late night runs as the thing is totally illegal. i really just want to get it running nice enough and reliable so it can go for cert without getting stranded in the middle of the workshop. will sus the idle (its pretty good) and lock it out. one slightly worrying thing is that at idle my VE numbers are looking very low. single digit low. i assume this is something to do with the dead time and running 4 squirt as it used to be around 35. but also, it works, and im not too inclined to change something that works just because its not showing up right. the rest of the map, under load is only looking to be about 20 - 30% too rich the more i get into it. it was just idle that was wildly different. anyway off for another 10 minute worried run.

ive got some big (in comparison to stock) 450cc injectors from an evo or a gsr or something like that, i forget exactly, they were cleaned and flowed and on trademe, so who knows if they actually were, but they looked tidy. ive banged it back to 4 squirts as it is WAY nicer. on 2 squirts it behaves the same crappy way as 1 squirt. it would probably run better once warm but its still an utter dog to start. crank the engine and itll fire and die after a couple cylinders fire, do this 20 times and maybe youll get the engine started, but more than likley youll just run the battery dead and have to wait for the battery charger. 4 squirts fires right up, throttle blips are super snappy and AFR (the small portion thats tuned at this stage) is steady. i was probably a bit harsh saying the map was 4 times too rich, its probably closer to 2 times too rich, but autotune (to answer that question yes i do have a full version of tuner studio) has brought the idle back in check nicely and i see no reason why it wont bring the rest back. i was worried about requesting such a small ms at idle with 4 squirts but it seems to behave. ill hopefully get out for a few late night runs around the block to get the base tune right before i get it on the track and start working through it. untill i blow it up and take the S4 out for a hoon

I'm not sure that's the issue. I was only idling and as far as I know the non linear is at the top of the flow? Though with 4 squirt it may have had such short openings that it affected it, I'd have expected to see lean though? Though in fucking around and running it quite rich I upset the spark plugs, cleaned them alot but they don't spark well anymore so will grab some new ones today and try to get a few laps around the block to bring the tune back in check. I have a company track day next week that I'm hoping to get the tune nailed down on. But just need to get it back close before then.

That is a pretty good explanation, I didn't find it via Google for some reason, cheers! Might give tuning on 2 squires a go and if not good bang it back to 4. Either way I'm confident it was the issue. 1 squirt for the whole crank rotation! No wonder it it was a pain to start

been chasing my tail recently with a hard to start/fouling on start/general rough running issue. last night i discovered a setting 'squirts per engine cycle' it was set to 1 and 'injector staging' was set to simultaneous i changed it to 2 squirts and 'alternating, maybe a little improvement. but then i changed it to 4 squirts alternating and boom fired up really easy, ran quite smooth, i could even blip the throttle without it bogging out. shut the engine off cause it was late and i was in a closed garage and wanted to live. came home tonight and gave it a proper warm up, started up really easily and ran pretty good once again (previously id have to start and restart it 20 times before it would catch) it immediately became apparent that the map was now about 4 times too rich. can anyone explain to me exactly what this function does. as far as i understand previously it was firing both cylinders full amount of fuel in one go and one cylinder was always scavenging its supply, and now its chopped up into 4 lots and flicks it around more evenly. or does it now dump 4x as much fuel in and its not just a coincidence the map is about 4x too rich. either way ill re tune the map and even at crazy rich it runs so much nicer. just sounds like a rotary. ECU - Megasquirt 1 Engine - 18rgeu + supercharger

i was also going to suggest 4ag_addicts brother. http://southernautoglass.co.nz/index.html hes mobile and was excellent service when he did my corona glass removal and installs when i painted it.

Ashburton weeks go for ages! 15 days

there was once an age when it was acceptable for me to hoon a go kart around a local park. i feel that if i did that now as an adult id get the police called

lol im not surprised that aeroflow pump was loud. it says itll flow enough to support over 600hp and you put it on a 4k.

that looks like a flash candy bar

Arnt you glad you don't need to cert scoots Clint. /you probably do, I haven't read the bike rules

gin traps for foot rests, nice. hope the welds dont fail

wideband will probably read pretty weird on an oil burning two stroke?

Yeah nick Ritchie got the pipe made by the same guy as me, interesting about the muffler and power band smoothing, might have to give it a go, Mines geared down aswell as a 17" wheel conversion, so when your cruising along you can crack it into the power band and it really jumps forward. Not a bad thing persay but I'm interested to see how it would ride with that smoothed out a little

Massive Yes to cycle car. Just don't take 5 years to finish it like I am!

My vote is some kinda cool classic grass / tarmac kart

what does your pipe sound like with the muffler? i have the same bike/pipe (pretty sure built by the same dude even) and run it unsilenced, while i dont mind the volume and the wide bearth people give me now. im curious to know what it sounds like with a muffler

it sure does sound like it needs more performance....

called it. but yeah, cheers for adding weight to my statement, it does happen! ive spent longer than 15 mins in a burger king drive thru. i remember because i spent the whole time watching my temp gauge rise. pretty sure i nearly cooked the old motor that day

yes i am. i assume you got that time there from the list UC give their students for workshop hours? my temp fitting job got pulled from me the day before xmas, and the uc student there was kind enough to give me that spreadsheet of contact details and managed to get some work there, pretty bloody fun! temp at the moment but fingers crossed i can make it long term or permanent! and yes im pretty keen to get it finished, the corona is also more or less ready for cert to this is one of the only automotive projects ive got going at the moment! heres the other car im working on and carrying motivation over from it got crashed into and the tub looked like this when i started on it and ive gotten it to this point. panels beyond repair stripped off, and just set it away on friday to have the fixable parts massaged back straight and then ill remake the fubard parts and reassemble. it plays right into my aircraft training being that its all solid rivited alloy sheets. I am pretty embarrassed by the absolute disparity of workmanship between the two cars, but i guess thats what happens when you have scrap steel and an angle grinder on one car and a fully equipped workshop on another! but im hoping that the exterior body will be onpar quality wise as theres nothing i need that i dont have at home also i have to keep in mind one is a full blown racecar and one is a toy!

the one thing that stopped me from going down this path you are looking at, and led me to get that little OLED screen monitor, was that have you actually tried to read a tablet in sunlight? its either shining the sun in your face or just pure glare. or put it down low out of the light and youll just see a reflection of your interior.

I bought a little 10 in 1 display from just race parts in aussie and it shows everything you'd really need to know on the fly, with programable alarms and the option for one big idiot light too. https://www.justraceparts.com.au/10in1-automotive-digital-oled-multi-gauge-display Gotta get the control unit and sensors too, all up was 240nzd shipped. I've not fully installed it yet but I'm pretty happy with it so far

That's really only an issue with boosted cars. How much lag would there be with a 3-4m reference line to the fpr?