BlownCorona

its probably not much different in architecture. ill take a look at the injector wiring and double check the fuel pump wiring, im 90% sure itll be that the old ecu ran the injectors slightly diifferently and i just need to chuch a relay in the mix. at the very least itll probably bandaid fix the problem and ill be non the wiser..

there is an ecu relay, but its looking like when the ecu shuts off that it pulls some pins to ground which is grounding out some of other relays. the fuel pump replay is 12v powered on both sides and pulled to earth to switch the pump as per the MS wiring diagram. its possible that its not ecu related and just back feeding through something, though my radiator fan doesnt act this way. edit after posting this i noticed that the fuel pump relay should be off the main relay, this could be an issue, however i dont believe i had it wired this way when i was running it on my old setup.

actually thats a sympton i forgot to mention and actually forgot i had. the fuel pump runs with the ecu turned off aswell (and thats how i filled the bores with fuel!!), and when i turn the key to on it primed for a few seconds and then switches off.

all I found online so far was that to make sure the injectors are getting switched 12v which I will confirm, I just used the factory injector wiring so it might be wrong. The engine runs fine and the injectors close up when I turn the ecu on (not even running) cause I see the small rise in fuel pressure. It's just when the ecu is shut off that they open up, which does sound like when the ecu turns off it pulls to earth on the injector pins and causes this issue

heres a question. i havnt been able to find a clear answer/exact scenario i have online so far. so when my car/megasquirt is switched off i noticed a while back that my injector resistor pack was getting warm. but today ive realised that that was a side effect of the injectors being held open when the megasquirt was unpowered but pluged in. i discovered they were locked open today when i was going about wiring the fuel pump into the ecu instead of the hotwire it had been on. and it proptly filled the cylinders/ports. que about 1.5 hours of me clearing the bores of fuel with a small fuel pump and a lenght of hose! does any clued up person know what ive done/broken to cause this to happen. i had noticed on some previous starts that it was very flooded and took a while to clean up and run on all four, and put this down to needing to tune the cranking fuel better as ive not even looked at it. and on a side note, i should be changing the oil now yeah? ive not started it since filling the bores.

overhead nailing must take some practise, i can hammer a nail like anyone else but im 100% sure if i tried to hammer one on the roof id end up with a couple holes next to the nail

Might as well grab it, who knows!

Today i went around to my brothers house and used his ta63 carina as a lathe, and polised up the WORK Lesco Pulse 1s. all i can say is that i am so far beyond stoked with these wheels. my cellphone pictures dont do it justice but the fitment and style suit this car down to a t and a couple nicer but still cellphone photos of how the engine is looking, its getting dangerously close to firing up, with the only things left to do are finish welding the tensioner (have wire now) wire up the ecu and a sensors hook up a throttle cable track down a water pump pulley discussion -

thats a luggage strap not a belt lol

So i have been pretty quiet on the corona front, Firstly due to needing/wanting to build a new bike for QCR Dirtmasters '17, which saw me spending every evening in the garage for the best part of a month smashing out this pretty wild gn125 powered XL80(mostly) build. Whilst all that was happening i went through a couple of jobs and money was very tight (the xl80 build was only possible thanks to the epic group that is QCR!) but things have started to come right, and ultimately ill be making a big career change in the future, but its almost guaranteed financial security so onward with the projects! things i have done but dont have pictures of are fit the 450cc injectors Modify the fuel rail to have a AN- fitting on the regulator side to facilitate a boost referenced fuel regulator which i am yet to purchase. die grind all the internals of the pipe work after the welding, and formed a bead for the silicone joiner to secure over. make a top bracket for the blower so now its rock solid (you can see this in following pictures) Paint the new wheels and polish the spokes. now need to polish the lips before purchasing tires and fitting. Yesterday i set up all my heat lamps and gave the blower, brackets and pipework a good coat of wrinkle black and im so stoked with how it looks. the pipes not look almost like factory castings. the intake pipe will need a touch up as an area obviously didn't have enough heat to wrinkle up but no big deal. the HT leads will also be run underneath the manifold. longer ones may be required but i have a few sets here to try out. sorry about the blury photos, i had to hold my lamps up and take the picture with one hand since i cant roll the car out of my gloomy garage! Discussion -

Would using a power transistor/ignitor work better than a relay? That is their designed purpose after all

Actually my enter megasquirt ecu was triggered from the points at that point in time..... So yeah..

to all those people saying that rev limiters on a carby engine is a bad idea/wont work/will suck. i can garantee you, you are wrong and its great fun, i had my bike carbed 18r in the corona running a megasquirt for ignition and this allowed adjustable two step. i only have a couple of average videos for your enjoyment but here you go (in this one my mate in the drivers seat was not holding the the throttle flat, which is why it kinda revs weird) this one actually shows it being used in a drag application (the car is still slow though) such lols in an old car with launch control

VE tuning is certainly what ill be using (and i think they only option megasquirt has) i have not yet started reading up on how to do it, all my tuning experience has been with carbs, but im very close to finishing the hardware setup! Edit - i certainly dont want to get a shit reg! the fuel system integrity is really going to be what makes or breaks (literally) this engine

any sugestions on a good quality regulator? the market is flooded with chinese shit and i dont want to take any chances on my fuel system.

sweet thats the clear answer i wanted. thanks again!

i cant find a straight answer anywhere. do i need a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator when adding a supercharger to a previously NA EFI engine, if i have a programmable ECU setup is 18RGEU sc12 supercharger running somewhere between 5-10psi upgraded to 450cc injectors megasquirt 1 ECU

are you worried that people will look at that and think huh cool retro bike/nice resto project. and not realise how much effort you put into it?? looks so proper.

awesome!

very happy today to discover/finally get around to test fitting, my modified dizzy, with the trigger wheel and pickup, from the old bike carbed 18r fits in the 18rgeu (although i sent both dizzy retainers off with the engines when i sold them!, the RG dizzy has a cast on retainer) but this means a bunch less work to do all over again, and i was secretly hoping that it would plug and play!

where do i buy new oring kits for these?? plenty over seas but when the shipping is more than the orings then its probably best to source local

sweet as Fuel. the guy did only say he thought they were from an evo1 so yeah will be galant items, but were flowed and cleaned at 450cc. will be plenty good for what i need!

man i am really keen to see how that gas and clutch on one pedal works out, its been a while since the discussion that idea came out of!

ive seen them. actually went looking for such an item as i was sure it must exist if i do need it. but i highly doubt i will. plus i really dont want to ruin the aesthetics with an inter cooler, the photos are pretty terrible cause it was on a cellphone at night in a poorly lit garage, but in person the system look so awesome and once painted will very much look like a period correct power adder kit. ill be running an inlet air temp sensor so will monitor and see how it goes, but for now im focused on getting it running!

That's the plan, if I need more / less it'll just be a case of changing the one pully. I've got a tensioner that will take up any amount of change etc