japawagons

Torque Stick?

For alternative fuels in drag racing I believe Nitro etc. Something to do with the different expansion rates of the fuel components that change with temperature which changes the air fuel ratio... But honestly I don't even know...

That too, I've reduced my crankshaft pulley size also...

The bigger of those two. I have the smaller one on my Circuit car and its not enough...

You sure this isn't your problem. I am suprised that a mig welder would do that kinda damage to those circuits. Welders can damage sensitive circuits such as ECU's especially O2 Sensor circuits which run very low voltage and are connected to the exhaust. Battery can act as a giant voltage / heat sink and can actually help reduce potential damage. Induced voltages are also a potential hazard. Jump starting is a more common method of blowing alternator diodes or voltage regulators from my experience...

But on topic. Toyo R888s. Fantastic in the Dry and Wet. Even when they are almost worn out. 1200 KG FWD No LSD. I'll run Max 30 psi on a hot winters day, after 6 laps. But I'm still gathering data, rained every time I've been out in the last 12 months.

For example I usually run 1-2 psi lower and run extra neg camber on the L/H front to compensate for the additional loading at Hampton Downs. Geometry, Weight, Set Up and Driving Style all need to be compensated for. And what the guy in the garage next to yours did to his car in the 70s is completely irrelevant to your unique situation...

Rookie has it covered. If your racing you should be optimising set up using wheel alignment, pressure differentials between loaded Tyres and tyre temps are your guide here. Most premier racers aren't doing this properly, but even club racers should be checking tyre temps to set optimum pressures.

This is only relevant to your own vehicle. Yes each track loads Tyres differently, chassis tuning should be used to compensate for this and avoid excessive tyre wear.

I have a centre sump set up, I no longer own any crowns... I think I'd be very happy for you to use it for this vehicle...

Yowzer is coming for you... You might be at work, you may be asleep, you could just be eating toast but Yowzer will find you...

So yeah, that video was fucking choice...

12A, 18A, 13B, 20B, 26B

Well the voltage regulator regulates the voltage, so if you have excessive voltage then its a good place to start, you need to check the connection to the battery is stable as it is the soak, the load which is the basis of the regulation...

You want to use that BNT De-Oiler, comes in a one litre pack. I've used it on modern Euro diesels that shit their heat exchanger oil coolers. Makes a mess and they have that separate header tank system, so pretty intricate. But it works real good, I'd buy two bottles and use it twice if it's quite bad. It's more of a detergent. Follow instructions. I agree with Spencer in regard to hoses etc, on that age of vehicle.

Totally agree with Spence, always check oil pressure with gauge, regardless of being suspicious of sender fault. Not something you want to miss the warning signs on...

Jealous.

2nd Hand Airflow meters are junk. Definitely worth buying genuine when it comes to AFMs...

If you pull the air flow meter out of its housing, sometimes are one piece sometimes have weird toque security screws, but if its contaminated you will actually see the dirt and oil build up... Air flow meter cleaner is good shit if its actually contaminated.

Unlikely.

You should be checking the bite and engagement with the vehicle in gear. If the vehicle is physically driving the car forwards in neutral, then you have a problem in the gearbox not the clutch. In neutral with the clutch pedal at rest, the input shaft in the gearbox is spinning but should be free until you engage a gear. I've seen Truenos that when on hoists have enough gearbox drag to be turning the front wheels but as soon as you put load on them they stop. But I'm still unclear on your description, it seems a tad contradictory.

Sorry just to clarify. When the car is running, in neutral and your foot is off the clutch ?? E.g pedal is at normal position. The car is moving forward. Or do you mean when the clutch pedal is completely depressed, on the floor, its moving forward. Just wondering whether its a gearbox issue, collapsing bearing or something...

Yeah that'll be for the clubmans... I'll be at all 4 rounds all going well, might even do a clubmans day if I manage to sort my shit out...

You on commission brick?? Haha

Well technically anyone can repair rust currently, a WOF Inspector will often request to see the repair prior to paint and finishing. However we have the right to request a repair is carried out by a agreed repairer to ensure the repair is done a high enough level. I have only done this on two occasions, one was when a car came back with a huge rust whole full of poorly sanded bog and black paint, the other on significant structure repair.