JasonK

So Bought this about a month ago, the guy selling it said it was running but had no drive. So got it home chucked a new filter in the gear box and filled it with oil and now it drives. Rego's on hold, have just gotta do a little bit of rust work and get an idler arm for it and then will go for a wof, then of course slam. hopefully all in time for nats. It's reasonably tidy and the only thing i've noticed that's missing is the bottom part of the dicky seat. might respray it at some stage but for now just keen to roll it as is Discuss: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/36715-jasonks-dead-sled/

hahaha that thing needs a shit tonne of work before it even gets close to going anywhere

fingers crossed the beast parked next to it in the picture

So this is sold now, gone down to chch. bit sad to see it go but go too many cars etc.

What are the rules about seat belts? just bought a new wagon with three point retractables in the front and a lap in the centre front which is all good but the back seat only has a lap belt in the centre (which someone has put in at some stage i think) and no belts in the dicky seat, its a '79 chev caprice but was first registered here in '80, will it pass a wof like this?

As far as I'm aware you don't need a repair cert unless the car was tagged for rust when it came into the country or has failed a re-vin and the guy doing it has said you need one. If you do the repairs well no body should be able to tell anyway

Sucks that I couldn't make the whole thing but shit happens. Was a good night anyway

I'm yet to find a hammer handle that is as comfortable as a snap on one. Definitely worth paying the extra if your using it every day, I find the toptul ones especially uncomfortable

+1 for chassis punch, can't beat them

empty the gas tank, take the cap off and stuff a wet rag into the hole, cover any lines etc with wet rags and you'll be sweet edit: Beaten

You can buy bumper filler, but you probably don't need to, you can do wonders with a heat gun and a dolly, just heating and pushing with the dolly from the inside out then give it a blast with a blow down gun to cool it off, if its a painted bumper I normally just give them a quick run over with a body file to smooth it all out then sand and paint.

I've only used durapox to paint a shop floor lol but I'd say it'd be sweet for floor pans etc. As for a miracle product I use Brunox, comes in a spray can or brush on, have never had any problem with it.

One of the main reasons that the clear will lift in time, should really rub down spray another coat of base and then clear it.

For tapping highs out it all depends on how high they are, Biggers ones may need to be shrunk out using oxy/acetelyne and a hammer and dolly(usually a dolly with quite a long curve on it and an ordinary panel hammer) or you can use a knurled hammer instead.Always hit them in a dragging type motion moving out from the centre as if your trying to spread the steel out of the high spot. should do a video or pictures because I'm useless at writing haha maybe tomorrrow

Was always told that growing up, the old man (a fitter turner)gave me a good slap round the ears one day for wearing gloves while grinding. glove gets caught around the chuck or whatever and makes a hell of a mess rather than a cut.

I'm keen as fuck seeing as I missed last year

never wear gloves with a rotating tool, tears fingers off pretty easily.

I just put a bit of tape over the breather hole when its sitting round, have never had it go off on me yet

When I do resto jobs (if the customers budget allows) I like to strip back to bare metal,rub it down with deoxidene (sp?) on a scotch pad then epoxy prime as soon as practical (making sure nobody touches the steel after its been rubbed down), Then do all the repairs over the epoxy, usually I keep a gun full of it close to the job and prime the repairs as soon as they are done or if they're being left overnight just so the filler doesn't soak up any moisture.

^this. Don't use anything too course to scuff it up though obviously

lol how much is there to do?

bring it to napier and I'll do it.

I'd spray some brunox on it, its pretty good shit and comes in a can or in a container for brushing on.

That's not an alternative, it's the only answer.

If a guard is hard to find at a good price then that guard is repairable without too much problem, and unless you can get a second hand door the same colour its probably cheaper to get yours repaired. however dont ask me how much it'll cost, i only beat the panels