Bling

Another good burger, more sharns and as usual people turning up in new old cars. OS life.

Are we talking full on race spec, or could it potentially pass a WOF? Just driving to get a WOF, officer.

Great info, will check those products when on pc thanks. Was actually looking at the Teroson wax earlier as I have a local spray store that sells it.

Sweet sounds like a plan, epoxy and i'll look into cavity wax options. Cheers.

What do people paint into the backside of panels to protect from rust? On roof for example on underside where door frames meet roof. Bottoms of doors on inside etc Clean then epoxy primer going to be a good solution? I'm brushing everything, so anywhere I can't physically brush i'll likely zinc spray. But where I can brush, i'm thinking epoxy will offer better protection. But not sure if other products are better suited for that job.

If the underseal is solid as fuck, i'd probably 2 pot the lot, then underseal it all. Would want to be sure moisture can't get in from behind mind you. Don't want it rusting from the inside out.

Whip it out and see if serviceable? I didn't find mine too bad to do, circlips and swearing, sorted. Had a tiny build up of dirt, once cleaned, balanced perfectly.

Proportioning valve jizzed up perhaps. Have had that twice before.

Any reason you didn't just stretch out the frame, like you do hose? Looks like a sweet project though!

Oh yeah and something i've done on the "big chobs" is cut out a smaller section, and replace that, even if the edge is rusty. Then cut slightly into the new repair, and extend the hole to remove more of the rusty area. If that makes sense. Rinse and repeat. Means that on areas where getting the original shape back might be hard, it's easy. As you're only replacing small bits at a time, while the cars shape doesn't change as the previous repair holds it together. I've had to do this quite a bit, as doing it in one piece would be near impossible to recreate the original section as it was. tl;dr: don't always try replace a whole area in one hit, small bites works well.

All of the rust repairs i've done on current car are rusty lap joints. So I would lean towards butt joint as there is nowhere for water to get in. Butt join is more work, as fitment has to be pretty close. But i'd consider it a better method. Everyone is going to have different strokes though. Whatever you do, coat it all to stop moisture getting to it again. And as someone mentioned, if wanting long term fix, you'll need to cut more out till there isn't rust on the edge of the patch. Cut it out till you have good solid metal to work with.

I seem to recall @Truenotch mounting a small one under his race car seat, or something similar. Might not be him though... /Ling out

People pay good money to get lock like that glad it's sort, probably an original part do you think?

Put a T in the line and put half the fluid back into the tank?

Make this step one of the process.

Are they tuning it too? Like on an engine dyno or something fancy.

It's a no brand copy, probably off TradeMe from someone like topmaq. Have had it a few years now. Haven't used it a HUGE amount, so the jaws are still pretty good. No issues so far with them grabbing the steel.

Buy a modern car if you don't want to be working on it all the time As for the alternator, could whip it out and have an auto sparky bench test it. Then go from there.

Can get full face for $130 on trademe, seems legit 3M to me. Still less than half local shops. https://www.trademe.co.nz/building-renovation/building-supplies/safety-gear/protective-gear/listing-2037131011.htm?rsqid=a2343708ea0e47918343e9d859381ddd-001 Pretty sure someone linked them before in here, but I can't be bothered looking back. Knowing Ali, it's likely the same shit, without the label. But at least with 3M legit, you know it will have had to meet certain requirements. Pinkies are for dust, the plain white go over the top of the organic vapour filters. Above dude was super helpful too, in determining what combo to go for based on jobs at hand. I roll half mask with welding filter now (which I got off them too). Full mask is for painting soon, though no spraying, want eye protection so went full face.

VIRM should cover the rust thresholds. Must have too much spare time if you're cruising around for a war over a rusty car.

Well Xmas break was a bust, ended up finding more and more rust to fix. Not that I care, I knew it was an 80's Toyota from day one. Just means the goal posts are shifted as to when it will be legal. Hoping to have it sorted for Nats. Have been slowly chipping away at it, slowly filling a container will rusty bits of car. My shrinker / stretcher has been pretty useful, makes creating curved sections much easier. Anyway, some pics of some of the repairs. No point posting the photos of all repairs, as ain't no one got time for that. Still have a many repairs to do, just need to pull finger as paint drying outside is going to be a pain come winter. This update is basically just showing my rust repairs, which is all i've done on the car since last update. Making a new rain gutter section for bottom of A-pillar. Decent surface rust that got 2-3 layers deep in some areas. Replaced with single piece. Boot latch, seal traps water above the latch. Rusted out of my other car too, so out it came. Finished section, with boot frame pieces also cut. Doesn't look pretty, but it's all welded up now, and solid as fuck, so whatever works. Drivers side boot above tail light area, other side had similar repairs. Not much was left original, I just had to replace it a section at a time, to keep the original shape as best I could. Passenger side boot hinge area Drivers side boot hinge area, or at least what was left after removing the "structural" rubber seal. This took a bit of planning, as I had to make a section that didn't exist. Just imagine someone getting frustrated and spending hours on the stretcher/shrinker having not much luck. A lot of this area is 2-3 layers thick and attaches to supports underneath. I'll have to tidy the underside up later. Not many progress pics of this bit, no time for pics when frustrated. Transfer the curve on to paper, then put folded sections into stretcher/shrinker to curve to shape to form half the gutter. And just like that it was done, so simple.... Random repair found above tail light, viewed from boot floor.. Mayte, just tack some sheet on and fold it under, no one will ever see it. There is perhaps 5% of the original boot seal area left, it has all been cut out in sections and replaced. Was just going to replace the worst bits, but the further I got into it, the further I realised the whole lot was beyond a wire wheel and paint job. So that is some of the repairs, but certainly not all of them. Need to tidy up a lot of the welds ready for epoxy primer. So will be doing that over the next month, with the intention of having it all sealed up ready for filler and paint. In between repairs i'm doing my homework on what parts i'll need to get it back on the road. Bit of a boring update, but rust gonna rust.

Shit me, that is impressive.

Don't they throw rocks at oncoming cars? Certainly seems like the next thing to be cracked down on.

If it's not broke...

I had been using a different link previously, this one, which is linked on page 2: https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2009_V2_Tyre_Size_to_Wheel_Size_Compatibility_Guide.pdf I guess the document has been updated since then though. Also found it linked of this wheel site: http://ssawheel.co.nz/technical_id_69.html so I guess people need to update their links. I'm lazy so just used google and came up with the dead links. Will go via the site next time. When visiting the old link (above) the "home page" link doesn't work, so that's why I thought it was gone.