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flyingbrick

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Everything posted by flyingbrick

  1. Nice car man. How did you find Chuck's pricing?
  2. I asked about getting a chassis powder coated and said i could get it blasted at my work for cheap. They were not keen due to time without paint and also other contaminants getting onto the surface before painting. Fair enough too. Atleast if they do all the required work then they can somewhat warranty the finish.
  3. Guy at work is telling me composite bonnets and guards etc can no longer be certified. True or false?
  4. I like ur manifold so far man. Will you use the plug to make a mold?
  5. Man this has so much potential. Kinda reminds me of the truck on jeepers creepers....even tho they are nothing alike haha
  6. I have a big yuck DeWalt that was like 100usd. I abuse it and for the money reckon it was a good deal!
  7. Hey man.. I see you got there in the end with pics Well done on all the cleaning, be good to get it out of the way! Smash some decent black epoxy over all ya bare steel- its a great feeling knowing its DONE and won't need attention again.
  8. We're those lotus f1 cars a total flop? There's heaps of talk before their release but can't find much about after? Jeez you have an epic job!
  9. Your bearing fucked out so bad that it caused you to lose control and spin across 3 lanes.. Then you drove it home? Jesus.
  10. No like https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/e35/12093651_384767745064839_1042066766_n.jpg?ig_cache_key=MTEwMDgyMjIzMjU5NDQwNjA5Nw%3D%3D.2
  11. 100% correct here, it depends entirely on the rack. Generally speaking you want the best possible view of said rack, however some should be kept hidden.
  12. Iv been plodding away at this. Redrilled the disks to Holden hq/chev PCD (modern mills have sweet digital readouts that make this very easy) I laid everything out on the lounge floor and sat everything together. I made a cad drawing and printed it 1:1 scale, cut it out and test fit it, then tweaked and repeated 5-6 times. Iv done something slightly unusual and decided to trim the bottom of the steering arm mounting boss so that the plate can go under it (and will be clamped down by the arm too) because this gives me a far more professional looking shape than this: I have also added onto the bottom of my adaptor plate the steering lock stopper as this has been cut off the end of the steering arm too (they did this in the above photo also but didn't add the stopper) Then I transfered my best template to sheetmetal and made sure it still fit ok. Then had a single item laser cut to again check everything lines up as expected. It's pretty damn good! I do need to spin up 4x spacers (to go between caliper mounting cradle and my adaptor, at the moment it's got a stack of washers) get some pads and then hopefully can document everything and send it away for tech approval ( or something) Huge thanks to Clint for answering my questions!
  13. Find old appliances with louvred bits and use those panels plz. The backs of older ovens and driers is probably a good place to start
  14. I'm enjoying this build. When I first saw the Cad designed and laser cut seat bases I thought REDICULIOUS! And then realised that's exactly how I roll too
  15. YouTube. Easy to do badly but hard to do perfect without correct tooling
  16. Haha. I'm pretty sure you would have to cut the splined section off nice and square and then grind a concave end in so that it will cut.
  17. Start from scratch then You could find a spare civilian column and use a portion of the splined section to broach the hole.
  18. If you get stuck then get another civilian steering wheel and use a cut off wheel to cut the spokes- then send me the center. If we are lucky it will be big enough for me to machine to take the quick release units PCD. HERES one I did on my gemini
  19. flyingbrick

    RUST

    Without scientific analysis you wouldn't know
  20. Man that would be a lush wheel for the bus!
  21. All I can add is that rather than changing linkages and driveshaft you could maybe just move the engine back 30mm. Easy.
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