flyingbrick

Did you never use that hot 6 the guy built up for you?

cool man. Thats the only reason i have car projects- learning is fun

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/forced-induction-10/welding-aluminum-tubing-alumiweld-872571/ I did a google search for "brazing aluminum intercooler piping" and found this fulla- he put a lip on there with a spanner.. probably not as tidy as expanding it but who cares. You could do what he did and then after inserting the smaller end into the bigger end gently tap the bigger end down so that its not such a sharp lip

argh ok they must have flux inside. Id expand one end first but thats just me. Maybe you could take them along to a friendly exhaust shop and see if they can accurately expand a little lip on the end for you Theres expander sets on aliexpress aye. Pretty cheap- if ya could find a place here that wuld sell you a cheap SINGLE expander to fit the tube you have then thatd be even better.

Yeah I put my head into a vessel that had been filled with (I think) c02. It was like when you get fizzy drink in ya nose kinda..But x100000. Felt like the blood in my nose bad just carbonated hahha

Yup gotta use flux! Maybe double check that whatever flux you use is okay for aluminium Clean the material extremely well to remove the thick oxide layer. Get it hotter than you think it needs to be Have an overlap and just trust that it will wick in and bond- don't try to make something that looks like a weld just fill any holes. If you push in too much it will either run out the bottom or into your pipe

Wow I read 1,000 times that baking soda wouldn't work! Great that it does. I need to check what gasses are produced when A, aluminium is in the tank (aluminium rivets in a part..I cbf removing them) and when wood is in the tank (an old wooden handle on a component) It seems to remove any rotten wood and it bubbles like hell but worse is that I got a wiff of some gas that really sorta stung my nostrils. Made me think OOPS am I making something dangerous? Also I restarted the tank when I got home from work and very strangely absolutely nothing happened. My solution had turned extremely clear with all gunk/brown sludge settled on the bottom and it was pulling max amps but there was zero bubbles and zero water movement. I messed around with it on other bits of steel etc and figured my solution must have been somehow bad...Then randomly it started working again. This was after cleaning parts that were covered in rust and carbon.

I have some BBQ stuff in my little tank..I have had some very strange things happening that I haven't seen before..Potentially (maybe) caused by the carbon / charcoal soot doing something chemically or something (honestly have no idea)

No limited slip diff so all power just leaks out of the broken CV. Much like that time (but also very different) Ling had a distributor cap leaking electricity

Also just read that the surface left can be quite porus because of how it so selectively removes the oxide. So there's lots of surface area So it will rust fast.

Yeah I don't think there is any harm reusing that solution at all! It's also relatively non toxic so you can tip it anywhere ya want. The above tide rust shows its effect pretty well aye! Also.. definitely seal it mate. I'm positive that the tank would had a zinc coating from the factory (that electro galvanized stuff that new panel steel has) Without it I doubt things would stay nice long You could try plating the insides with zinc yourself? (I have no idea on the process)

You would only have to expand like a 10mm lip for a tiny overlap.. not like an exhaust hehe. Dont use it for tacking up without checking that someone can weld through it haha. It might be a total bastard PS you are doing well! I'm talking shit but in reality what you have done is A+ okay

Keep practicing :-D. You may have discovered why everyone doesn't braze their aluminium intake pipework tho, haha. I must buy one of those expander sets- would be great for stuff like this. If there was an overlap itd be easy because the gap would suck it in like solder

You could use an exhaust expander to make a small slip joint on ya piping..Slide them together like 5mm and braze. Would be STRONG

Oi get out of bed and tell us how it went

Awesome! Can't wait to see the result. Be a bit careful tomorrow because you may get pockets of hydrogen gas inside the tank

Assuming you pull it out once the rust has gone it shouldn't remove any non rusty material. According to the internet it will target rusty stuff as their bonds are weaker.. the pits were probably there before but you just couldn't see them as they were full of rust. Also, I believe it will strip any zinc or other rust prevention coatings from the parent metal- this may be the green sludge you have had accumulate. When the sacrificial piece gets covered in shit and rusty you need to drag it out and scrape the shit off into ya garden or whatever. For best results you need clean steel there. Now.. do ya tank! Many excite!

Yeah

Derust one part like this and you will be searching for more bits to do....Such fun

Oh man, getting good.

I bet you could use electrolysis! Fill it will water and tip it around so that there's no air and water fills it entirely, chuck in some washing soda, make the tank your cathode (negative) and suspend a steel anode (positive) carefully down the filler (it can't touch the tank) Double check the anode cathode thing so you don't make problems worse...But this should strip it to bare steel while you do NOTHING OH and use a laptop PSU or battery charger for juice. It's silent, easy, cheap and most importantly.. requires SFA actual manual labour

Hahaha.

What do you think it's worth?

I wonder what amps they can output for cranking .. anyway, cheers!

There's proably a million reasons why this wouldn't work, but, could you bore/skim/drill/tap around that 02 sensor and bolt the waste gate on there? I haven't put much brain power into this but it seems like an easy solution (if you have a mill lol)