flyingbrick

Perfect... Fit taller profile rear tires it will look faster too

Is it reading too fast or too slow?

There's lots of people on the internets with jaycar speedo corrector issues. Looks like they all just pieces of shit.

Hi rookie. What is a pin guide endmill? Do you use it in a hand held drill or drillpress?

It's the 3.0 v6 (3vzfe) isn't it? They are nearly as bad as the 7m at blowing head gaskets. Keep an eye on its water use.

Wire wheeled out some dirt and rusty, ground off the spot weld bumps and the rusty remains of the old skin and then hammered everything straight again. Now the passenger side needs the same.

As per FB, I didn't get pins, I will turn some m10 bolts down to 11/32nd then blacken them and retain with a c clip. I just can't handle $32 for 4 pins! I know why this cost this much and I'm fine with that but just not when I'm paying. The part number I ordered is Product Code: JAOD14551

Ordered the correct door hinge bushes from Jonseys garage in Hamilton after measuring my hinges and finding imperial equivalent. They have an excellent website and they sell a range of hinge bushes for less than HALF the cost of buying an actual HQ/WB specific set (just $3 a bush) They were the ONLY source I could find in NZ so I'm very impressed...It's surprisingly hard to find small bronze tophat bushes! http://www.jonesys.co.nz/clips-fastners/pins During lunch I tig welded the bottom of the handle and after a bunch of measuring milled in these finger dimples- work days go faster if ya skip smoko and focus on little projects like this. Had a very stressful Thursday morning and was too worked up to go back to actual work so did the driver's side floor piece. Shaped the opposite side of my MDF former, pinned my steel down with a pair of nails and tapped it round while watching TV. My pleats are getting much nicer now. Fewer pleats and larger seems much tidier than lots of little ones. And then I had a pair! Still lots to go :'-( Having a decent hammer and tools makes this a whole lot faster and easier. It's amazing how much you can push mild steel around to adjust the position of folds and joins....A very fun learning experience.

Very nice! I bet it's a hoot to drive!

I have moved on.. now using vinegar and find it far more effective as it's obviously not line of sight.....And it gets DEEP into the pits and rusty holes.

Put your dial indicator on the center spiggot to see if the axle end is also bent in the other direction and is moving the wheel upward and downward as it rotates.

I have used SketchUp with good success. Only pain was that it didn't output a useful file so I used an online converter to convert things I used draftsight to make the plan view 2d file first as that's what I know how to use

Thanks guys!, Haha Gold zinc passivation (it's electroplating) is pretty cheap. I couldn't comment on actual price per KG (it's sent off by someone else for me) but I get everything done at Terei Brothers in West Auckland. They are bloody approachable so give them a call and ask any questions directly Also, be cautious as to what you get done- nothing high tensile or spring related (I'm not even too sure about things like seat rails or this handbrake lever.. I generally assume that if it's available electroplated via aftermarket sources eg my rear caliper handbrake brackets then I don't mind doing it myself ) Any input @cletus about electroplating custom made seat rails etc?

More stuff back from the platers, hinges, axle spacer things and a few brackets. Drilled lots of holes everywhere. The handbrake took a bit of planning (used CAD) There is 10mm between each hole and the sides of all the holes (except for the last big one) are all in a straight line Holes cut with a combination of rotabroach tooling and normal drillbits in a mill for no other reason than because I can. Oh and used big blocks of steel, a press and a hammer to fold over the curved bottom lip on those chassis bits. And yucky. This is why the old ones had to come.off

Also, it doesn't necessarily have to be ground- a skim in a lathe with good tooling will also suffice (have done a few at work) You'd be amazed how warped and worn the surface can become even on an old ladies daily.

Just buy 5 off Ali Express (for the price of one here) and choose the best

Did you never use that hot 6 the guy built up for you?

cool man. Thats the only reason i have car projects- learning is fun

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/forced-induction-10/welding-aluminum-tubing-alumiweld-872571/ I did a google search for "brazing aluminum intercooler piping" and found this fulla- he put a lip on there with a spanner.. probably not as tidy as expanding it but who cares. You could do what he did and then after inserting the smaller end into the bigger end gently tap the bigger end down so that its not such a sharp lip

argh ok they must have flux inside. Id expand one end first but thats just me. Maybe you could take them along to a friendly exhaust shop and see if they can accurately expand a little lip on the end for you Theres expander sets on aliexpress aye. Pretty cheap- if ya could find a place here that wuld sell you a cheap SINGLE expander to fit the tube you have then thatd be even better.

Yeah I put my head into a vessel that had been filled with (I think) c02. It was like when you get fizzy drink in ya nose kinda..But x100000. Felt like the blood in my nose bad just carbonated hahha

Yup gotta use flux! Maybe double check that whatever flux you use is okay for aluminium Clean the material extremely well to remove the thick oxide layer. Get it hotter than you think it needs to be Have an overlap and just trust that it will wick in and bond- don't try to make something that looks like a weld just fill any holes. If you push in too much it will either run out the bottom or into your pipe

Wow I read 1,000 times that baking soda wouldn't work! Great that it does. I need to check what gasses are produced when A, aluminium is in the tank (aluminium rivets in a part..I cbf removing them) and when wood is in the tank (an old wooden handle on a component) It seems to remove any rotten wood and it bubbles like hell but worse is that I got a wiff of some gas that really sorta stung my nostrils. Made me think OOPS am I making something dangerous? Also I restarted the tank when I got home from work and very strangely absolutely nothing happened. My solution had turned extremely clear with all gunk/brown sludge settled on the bottom and it was pulling max amps but there was zero bubbles and zero water movement. I messed around with it on other bits of steel etc and figured my solution must have been somehow bad...Then randomly it started working again. This was after cleaning parts that were covered in rust and carbon.

I have some BBQ stuff in my little tank..I have had some very strange things happening that I haven't seen before..Potentially (maybe) caused by the carbon / charcoal soot doing something chemically or something (honestly have no idea)

No limited slip diff so all power just leaks out of the broken CV. Much like that time (but also very different) Ling had a distributor cap leaking electricity