flyingbrick

Put sump upside down on table. Rested scribe on a block of 3" steel and marked round perimeter of bowl. Then cut bottom off with a cut disk. Then took a skim over the whole edge with the mill to ensure its dead flat and nice. The front portion of the sump will be 70mm deep. Maybe deeper than is needed but it fits with the motors current location. I have a rear sump one coming but will sell it if this turns out OK. Mine will hold more oil and fit this car better anyway!! I've heard rumors that the sump is structural on the LS motors but after seeing some of the flimsy aftermarket pans being used it doesn't look to be a huge issue. Just taking a break ( had to do some actual work......)

Still drawing brackets and different pieces. Next up is the alternator mounting bracket. I like to mix it up a little and decided I needed a reason to try the welders AC. I like the factory valve covers a whole lot more than aftermarket so decided I'd clean them up a bit before spraying wrinkle paint. I cut off the coil mount lugs and filed things flush then welded up the remaining holes. I've done very little aluminium welding and nothing on cast before so had some issues with porosity in the casting- basically bubbles coming up out of the weld pool. I know this is a casting issue because i was uncovering them as i filed down the lugs. I managed to get them pretty good on the first cover but it was time consuming and I was not really sure if I was doing the right thing ( advice appreciated, I was just moving pool round and adding clean material until the area seemed higher than surrounding material and free of shit).. So the second one just got the blind holes filled with kneed it ( great stuff for lazy people) I'm thinking something wanky like red with the two lines filled in with black. If I ever run into rocker clearance issues there are reasonably priced 1/2" spacers available. Before and after Welding issues (got it much better then filled a bit with kneed it) Both nearly finished

Wowwww

If carbon intake I would give mike shaw a call. Prices aren't bad and very nice quality. If u made a plug and posted to him he'd do the rest

I'd be in but will be away on honeymoon Keen to see how you find the new karts!!

So you want to mount it on the end of the crank? Or just on a different style of mounting plate?

Hi all. I've been having a great time with the project. I had to remove a fair bit more if the firewall than I had planned- and the motor is a far but further in front of the front spindles than I desired- but I had to call it quits as pushing it back another inch requires a LOT more cutting. I keep telling myself it's an Ali block and it won't really matter. It probably has 70% of the block behind the front wheels. Thanks to a few people on oldschool I've started using CAD. I reckon I'm getting pretty boss at it too! At least in 2d. First up (I got some help with this) is the water inlet/outlet plates which will take -12an fittings to let me use a remote electric water pump and thermostat. I had one of the guys trace in CAD a gasket that I'd scanned- he gave me back a file which had the center locations of all the holes plotted out. I then drew a nice outline around them and added the correct size holes. A few test fits and revisions later and I have this They will be water jet cut out of 20mm thick aluminium. The idea came from these morosso parts I have also drawn up both engine and chassis engine mount plates. The small lines are to show where folds need to be placed. This is my rather ugly trans mount. Undecided if I should gusset it or redo. I tried using a modified factory mount but the location of the isolation bush was going to load the tail shaft housing mounts incorrectly and I'm just too paranoid. This has been test fit and will work fine.

Does it matter which direction you spin an alternator?

I know autospeed fairly well.They keep rehashing the same stuff over and over- really need some new contributors. I think they send me e-mails still- the last one I bothered to open was about DIY timers / DIY water spray controllers part 10 and I yawned. Also tried reading some suspension stuff there but it was all about reverse trike bicycles and was more of a blog Edit: giving AS another go. Looks like they are doing well since my last look

Sweet Post piston size once you get it open too

I suggest opening them up and checking seals and bores mate

So now what's going to happen is I'll read these books Then fuck it up anyway

I did think about that and had a look at prices- I'm pretty sure I saved money going fishpond rather than amazon ( could be wrong!) It just seemed much easier to buy from nz

Thanks! I have bought chassis engineering by herb, how to make your car handle by Fred and a book on GM LS swaps all from fishpond. Great pricing. I also found a few available on the apple news stand for like $10 (rather than $30 for the actual book) and nearly bought there instead but then ya can't share! I'm surprised at fishponds catalogue actually- heaps available

Thanks all, time to warm up the credit card

What do people recommend I read or who should I ask about this. The gem is about to get a simple alteration but I need to know it won't fuck shit up.

Hi all. I've been plodding along with this pretty slowly. I pulled the bonnet and guards off- found rust in sill area down under guards so decided to take the seams in that area down to bare steel for a look. Thankfully it was all good so it got rust proofed to protect from rain and moisture ( she'd is small so pull it outside every now and then) Then Drew popped over with his crane and gave me a hand to pull the old engine out and test fit the new one. We'll have to build up the top bell housing lug with weld and then drill it to suit. And then the motor went in- it doesn't fit- but that's relatively easy to fix. In this photo the engine is sitting 3" too low (no sump) and about 1" too far forward So the tunnel is getting sliced and bent to suit- thankfully the steering shaft clears the block ( it's close!) and once it is all in place I'll weld in strips of steel to fill the gaps. I stopped work at 6.30 for the neighbors sake/ a lifestyle block in the country keeps sounding better!

If too long that's normal. You are supposed to stuff them on so they don't get too short over time

That steel bar could be a real ass punisher if things got real out of control lol

Sweet. Is that a steel hoop behind the seat?

You will understand benifits when you push the glass panel into a tree and it flexes rather than dents the cf bonnet I had on my hilux was amaze balls. I had it on grass and this like 150kg hulk of a person stepped backward into the middle- no damage it just popped back.

Man... I'd drive that one!!!Has that got larger arches?

Hey man. 4wd fiberglass in Hamilton does a sweet bonnet and wideeee guards for these

Man that's some impressive rust repair work. You a panel beater?

Good to hear. Have you used the product before?