flyingbrick

Hi all. I've been plodding along with this pretty slowly. I pulled the bonnet and guards off- found rust in sill area down under guards so decided to take the seams in that area down to bare steel for a look. Thankfully it was all good so it got rust proofed to protect from rain and moisture ( she'd is small so pull it outside every now and then) Then Drew popped over with his crane and gave me a hand to pull the old engine out and test fit the new one. We'll have to build up the top bell housing lug with weld and then drill it to suit. And then the motor went in- it doesn't fit- but that's relatively easy to fix. In this photo the engine is sitting 3" too low (no sump) and about 1" too far forward So the tunnel is getting sliced and bent to suit- thankfully the steering shaft clears the block ( it's close!) and once it is all in place I'll weld in strips of steel to fill the gaps. I stopped work at 6.30 for the neighbors sake/ a lifestyle block in the country keeps sounding better!

If too long that's normal. You are supposed to stuff them on so they don't get too short over time

That steel bar could be a real ass punisher if things got real out of control lol

Sweet. Is that a steel hoop behind the seat?

You will understand benifits when you push the glass panel into a tree and it flexes rather than dents the cf bonnet I had on my hilux was amaze balls. I had it on grass and this like 150kg hulk of a person stepped backward into the middle- no damage it just popped back.

Man... I'd drive that one!!!Has that got larger arches?

Hey man. 4wd fiberglass in Hamilton does a sweet bonnet and wideeee guards for these

Man that's some impressive rust repair work. You a panel beater?

Good to hear. Have you used the product before?

Good link man, thanks! I'll call into fortress and have a chat with them.

That is really shit!!! There are aluminium brazing rods available which could fix that and I'm pretty sure strength wouldn't be an issue for the braze as its probably stronger than parent material. should be reliable and much easier than welding. there is a nz supplier for the product and I think you should call them and discuss what's happened- they might say yes! Or nooooo. Found it! http://www.durafix.co.nz/index.php This sounds ideal. Edit: I'm curious as to why it cracked in the first place though

Verrrry nice. Always had a soft spot for these

My gems engine is ready... What day you free?

Oh.. I found a decent drawing.. It clips onto the wire spring...

cheers mate. I think I'll order those bike ones as they look pretty convenient for bonnet and dash use ( tool free) What's the long wire spring for that some dzus come with?

http://www.bikestore.co.nz/products.asp?category=167&item=918 Anyone got input on these?

Anyone got a good source to quick release fasteners in nz- or maybe a guide as to what's what? Duz are the only ones that come to mind but I don't think Iv ever seen them here before ( Iv not looked though) I need to secure bonnet, front guards, boot and dash. Cheers

Lol

That is so so so cool. How does it control the tracks? Does it have a diff and fiddle brakes? Or clutches?

The gayest part of these issues is usually finding the source of the drain. Since you know what yours is it'd be easy to just measure current draw?

Just making sure

stainless bolts are likely much weaker than the original items. Edit. To be clearer, from memory a 316 or 304 stainless bolt can have HALF the tensile strength of a high tensile steel grade 8 bolt.

Ugly cars always have more potential to look fucking badass with decent wheels, tires and rake

Flexible dressmaking tape and diagonals between suspension pivot points. Dynabolt into floor to give pulling points

Also- highly recommend using lavender scented candles- smells lovely during the process