forced

Have you thought about hooking up a boost gauge to your cooling system and taking it for a drive? BTW modded turbo cars can easily make 800 HP on a stock radiator. Steve

The top tank of the radiator will let the pressure out instead when it bursts. Steve

That always happens with a blown headgasket. Oh and when the car is moving, a fan isn't even needed. Steve

In an ignition coil there are 2 windings. The LT winding runs between the + and - terminals. The HT winding runs between the HT connection and one of the other terminals. It's not hard to figure out that swapping the terminals will affect the HT voltage produced and so make it "wrong" even if it's only a little bit wrong. Part nos for coils (old lucas ones) also depend on whether they're + or - earth. If coils were marked as "battery" and "points" there wouldn't be confusion. Of course someone might think that the spark now travels in the wrong direction. The answer to that is to look at how wasted spark works. Steve

You don't change the coil leads. If you do then it won't work properly. SU type fuel pumps are solenoid operated so you don't change them either. It's got nothing to do with galvanic or whatever. Going back , most things were positive earth, that's how all the old (valve) radios are made. Or to put it in other words, in the days prior to the transistor, electronics were easier to make in positive earth due to the way that thermionic valves work. Even today, telecom exchanges are still positive earth. Electrolysis is only relevent if the machine is earthed, like a boat for example. Rubber tyres are a good insulator but caterpillar tracks aren't. As far as electrolysis goes on a digger,it's probably irrelevent. More useless info. Steve

It's more a case of the japs agreement to limit motors to 280ish horses. By limiting the power output the only way to make improvements is to increase mid range torque by gradually increasing the CR, making longer cams and upping boost. The smaller ports help midrange torque at the expense of max possible flow, which of course isn't needed with the limit of HP. Steve

It looks like it's off a dirty old Ford V8 Steve

It won't have anything to do with the miss at idle though. Steve

Most carbys don't have a choke flap on the secondary. In fact I can't think of one that does, because there's no need . Steve

It pays to never listen to your mates unless they can proove that they know something. In this case they're just muppets, but then the same goes for mechanics too, even at the best of times. Steve

The auto choke has probably crapped out and the owner fiddling with other things probably made it worse. A pic of the plugs would help. Steve

You'll be able to get it from Telesound marketing in Nelson St. You'll be disappointed though......it's rubbish and expensive. I used to use it on keypads for phones and remotes but had too many come back again.Need to make sure everything is really clean first but then that applies to lots of things. Steve

Jeeze, you guys so fulll of shit. Steve

It's too hard to pressurise the carb when you've got choke & carb cables, carbs are designed to work at atmospheric pressure and they go rich when on boost. The fuel pump also has to be regulated to boost pressure , pretty easy these days with FPRs and tuning is also easier with oxy sensors and knock detectors. Steve

That's a pretty rangi way of doing it bro. So your compressor cover now has a hole in the inside to disrupt airflow. Well done. Steve

You should have reset the ECU after changing the o2 sensor. The faulty o2 sensor would have made it run too rich. Running too rich will accelerate wear which accelerates the consumption of oil. Burning oil reduces the octane rating of the fuel and might contribute towards detonation. Detonation at light throttle is always caused by too much timing.It can't detobnate whist decelerating but can backfire, caused by running too rich. Of course it might not be detonating at all, you might just be diagnosing it wrong. The only thing that ever goes wrong with Toyota ECUs is identical to Mitsi ECUs.....capacitors leaking. Steve

What it comes down to.......is the fact that you need a wiring diagram for the car. Different types of alternators work differently, likewise different cars use different way of switching the light. As an example a typical lucas alt with inbuilt reg has only 2 wires . One, the thick one goes to the battery. The other goes to the warning light. The other side of the warning light has battery behind it when the ignition is on. The light will glow with the ignition on, as the current through the light flows through the rotor, to ground via the reg to excite it. When the alternator is spinning, the alternator becomes self exciting so the voltage at the warning light (coming from the alternator)wire rises to 12V and the light goes out. Steve

Aluminium

Alloy won't solder no matter how hard you try. Steve

Ha, the soldering/crimping debate again. Soldering is infinately better and more time consuming so more expensive. Crimps are quick, simple & cheap. Monkeys can be taught how to use crimp tools but they'll burn their lips on a soldering iron. For a light , a crimp is plenty good enough. I wouldn't use crimps in my own car, I would use them in YOUR car though, if you paid me. Steve

They work better reversed, otherwise they act as a safety valve. Steve

Gas welding works best for exhaust pipe. Steve

Use some cheap charlie fake chineese RCA leads & cut the end off. Steve

You didn't understand my earlier post. Catch cans are only for rooted motors. The reason it has a PCV system is to give a flow of fresh air through the crankcase. The flow of fresh air is essential for removing water and exhaust gasses which otherwise contaminate the oil and make your motor even more rooted. You'll know your oil is contaminated with water when you can see "mayonaise" on the dipstick or the filler cap. The "mayonaise" is water which has been absorbed by the detergent which is a constituent of the motor oil. Steve

It will probably work with 30 connected to 86 and the relay thrown out. Steve