Frosty

Use the 1300 head with the 1600 valves in it and 1300 pistons with the 1600 block, crank and rods, you'll need a 1600 sump to, the 1300 one doesn't have enough room for the crank. Deck the block and skim a bit of the head to increase the combustion ratio. Headers will fit most of the time without drama, some times it gets to close to the floor at the collector and needs some persuasion with heat and a big bar. A2 Cam, double valve springs, 1600 GT twin Barrel carb and manifold with 2000 jets in it or just fit a 2000 carb to the GT manifold. Balance the crank, flywheel, front pulley, cam gear and clutch diaphragm as a complete unit. This will give you a strong engine without being stupid and costing moon beams. Should see the 80 to 90 HP you are looking at. If you still need more after that look at building a flowed head with over sized valves into your 1600 head, forged pistons, bigger cam (A3) with twin side draft Dellorto or Weber carbs. Results in about 110 to 120 HP. This is tried and tested, once you get much past this it takes some major $ with light weight after market internals and the gains get smaller and smaller with each stage of mods not to mention they become a pain to drive in city traffic. Good luck mate and welcome to the oldschool community.

You may have to get a reducing nipple and a socket, male female reducers are not the norm.

Is it a Bilstien / Tein shock? Right color yellow and the txt is the right blue but can't read it. If yes, it can be fixed. Autolighn have the technology to rebuild him. 09 574 2288 Do them as a pair, my last set was just over $150 a shock.

Modern FWD cars are set up to under steer. putting a rear sway bar on will help a bit it won't fix what is in effect a safety net. Basically the car under steers so you lift of the gas shifting the weight of the car to the front wheels allowing the car to get round the corner, not to mention the butt clench that trains the driver to slow down. The biggest bang for buck will be lower and stronger springs followed by a more aggressive wheel alignment, the difference in turn in is astounding. To really combat under steer, reduce ride height, increase spring weight, fit urethane bushes, adjustable top plates and a strut brace. Wheel alignment for fast road work, between 0.5 and 1.5 deg negative chamber and a couple deg extra caster to reduce the tram lining using heavier springs will aggravate. REDUCE UNSPRUNG WEIGHT so what you do actually gives you a real benefit. I know fitting a smaller wheel and tire with some side wall seems counter intuitive in this world of bigger is better and low profile tires but when it comes to wheel weight it works. I know race cars have low profile tires and huge negative chamber but if you actually had to drive one for a week in the real world on real roads you would want to give it back the first day. FWD corner technique is. Slow in fast out. Slow the car down before the corner, turn in a little later than what fells comfortable, hit the gas and let the power pull you out. Good on you for wanting your Shuttle to behave badly, there's to many rules and to many haters.

Try this number 89561-30080. Could not find any Celica or Supra (MA45) built in 1980 that was efi other than the US ones. As far as I can tell the JDM EFI version was only fitted to the Crown. I would suggest it was a conversion and this could be at the heart of your intermittent problems. Just in case here are the numbers for the US spec M-EU ECU's, the pin placements are most likely the same. 89561-14040 89561-14060 89561-22020 89561-22040 You may also find that the ECU is to old for the checker to check.

Firing order 1243. Remove the coil lead from the dissy cap and hold the end a few mm from a good earth and wind the engine over with the ign on, you should get a spark to jump between the lead and the earth. If no then. Check for power at the distributor. Check the earth lead in the distributor is attached, one end to the body of the dissy, other end to the points plate. Check polarity of the coil, negative side to the dissy. Check fuel at carb. That's the basics.

Your solution needs to be cost effective and bullet proof while retaining the column shift. Yes? All these solutions like "get the gearset ISF'd", "getting gearbox internals cryotreated", "Polishing the Gubbins", "Full syn 75w85 gl4 oil + all the other things everyone has suggested" sound very expensive, more so than than a late model Toyota conversion? Bell housing from a MK 2 Cortina (bolt on) won't be hard to find and also has the heavy duty 3 lug starter mount. Linkages are just a matter of a few sums to sort and the basic layout of the current follows the same basic pattern as the Toyota five speed (double H patten). Drive shaft, speedo cable and cross member are all easy if you talk to the right people or do your research. One huge benefit that you will get is availability of parts once installed, if you kill a Toyota 5 speed a replacement is available and cheep unlike a modified factory one. Not to mention a huge range of clutches straight of the shelf and because they are made in big numbers they won't be moon beams price wise.

If you can feel it through the gear stick as well as getting worse with torque load it could be tail shaft or lay shaft bearings? How long since the gearbox had an oil change? they do need doing every million km's or so.

MK3 Zephyr internals in the Cortina box? or just run the whole thing? The 6 cyl Vauxhalls PA , PB etc had a pretty good box in them to as did the Austin A90, 95 and they had an overdrive option in the top two gears as well.

What ever the problem is it relates to isolation of the drive train, so look for worn mounts the full length of the drive train, engine, gearbox and diff. Sound and vibration can be very hard to pin point especially in a modern car with sound proofing it will tend to come from where that is least effective rather than it's actual location. Left field thinking might suggest a stone or the like could be trapped above gearbox or diff? Another thought is a cracked or bent mounting in anything that is rigidly mounted to the drive train like the exhaust for example.

Bit late to the party but I use these guys for all my Window Rubbers etc, they do a huge range of gear for oldschool car glazing. http://www.basisnz.co.nz/

ToyoDIY parts look up would indicate all the A engined C50's and C52's from 83 to 89 including the FWD ones use the same output shaft so I think you're safe. Ratio swaps within the gearbox are straight forward just make sure you use both half's of the gear set from one gearbox. ie if you want second from the C52 in the C50 use both 2nd gear gears from the C52, input and output. Same goes for the Crown-wheel and Pinion, use both from one gearbox don't change the pinion buy it's self, IT WILL JUST BLOW AGAIN. Dam that sounds confusing but it's not.

Sounds like a poor connection somewhere and is most probably related to the work you have done so the first place to start is in the alt. Here's a couple of possibles. Dirty contact patches between the commutator and brushes, clean up with some fine sandpaper and re radius the edges with a ball point pen, they should be bright copper in color and smooth not brown with lines. Check the connections for the brushes to the diode pack, there may be some corrosion. Poor earth for the diode pack. Oil between the mounts and the engine or loose bolts can also cause a bad earth. Damaged wiring or components in the alt, When brushes wear out they can spark quite heavily and damage insulation and internal connections. Could be the reg if it's the old type with points so check them for pits and burnt contacts.

Got a fuel pump out of a AE82 Blue Top here, know it's a goody as I drove it home and gave it a rite good thrashing. I never thought the day would come when a 5 door Corolla FWD would be a desirable old school car. Don't get me wrong it's great, always thought the 4AG FWD was way better that every one else thought it was, sort of Toyota's Mini if you like. I own a 4 door (AE80) myself that I'm slowly butchering into something more than Toyota ever intended.

Float level if carb, AFM stuck wide open or buggered if injected, these would be the best place to start. Good luck. Had one in an Avenger with twin twin choke Minkuni's as a lad, new diff every couple of weeks till I put a Holden V8 one in it.

Stupid question. Would it be possible to move the linkage to inboard and leave the master and booster where it is? Another option may be a cable. This would still use the stock master and booster in the normal position and making parts easier in the future. It may still require a cert but I doubt anyone would notice.

It's factory on a lot of forward control vans for a booster and master under the dash and may be adaptable making compliance a bit easier. The Lite Aces even have the clutch master under there to, fells a bit odd pulling the cluster out to fix them but it works. Brake, fuel and cooling lines in the cabin are also allowed which can make a smooth under belly feasible on an older car.

Slam, 100 wires, scalloped candy paint and fluffy dice, Latino low rider. or lace seat covers, cushions on the parcel tray and a noddy dog. Grand Ma spec or moderate low with wide steels, matt black bonnet, numbers on the front doors and a Heatwave Rally NZ sticker on the back window for the classic race car feel. or do all 3 at the same time, who said a race car can't have Candy paint and a Noddy Dog in the back window. Yes I know, I a very sick man child.

I don't know whether to congratulate or commiserate you on your latest ride. I'm firmly of the opinion that to own an older English car you have to be at least a little mad. Ether way we seem to in a growing community of old school car enthusiasts that own both Japanese and English and in the case of some early Nissans both in the one vehicle. In the build thread you ask how to rebuild Strombergs. You will only need one tool, the biggest hammer you can find and use to dismantle said CD's, please keep in mind this is just IMO. Then find and fit a set of 2500S 1 3/4 SU's not only will you get more power but all the issues the CD's have will be gone to. Or better yet find some 2600 Rover HIF44's for the extra power and far better fuel economy, think these where fitted to the Triumph TR6 along with increased comp and some other Trumpy trickiness for near 150hp. Both will fit straight onto the manifold and retain the same throttle linkages and are no where near as tricky to rebuild or tune, In the SU's case there is only one gasket and if your float level is right you only need that for vapor control, the car will run fine without it. Good luck, the Triumph 2000 and 2500 are great cars.

Had a 1300 do this exact thing after a rebuild. Used a set of Hepolite pistons and used a single piece oil ring. Big mistake. Most aftermarket pistons only have small oil return slots / holes where the oil control ring goes. The solution was to fit a 3 piece oil control ring and inlarge the return holes. Was also using double valve springs without seals, smoked on startup and when getting back on the throtle after slowing down. This is normal.

Running way to rich. Couple of things could be the issue. New air filters have modified the air flow to the point that the main jets need adjustment. (most likely) Low oil level in the carbs. I do realize that sounds real odd but both type of carbs used on T 2000's and 2500's use a oil filled damper that runs down the middle of the carb. If you unscrew the big nut on top of the carb you will find a piston like thing on the end of it. The tube it fits into should have visable oil in it. Red X or Singer 3 in 1 oil will do the job. That system is refered to as a "dash pot" if you want to google it. If CD type carb the rubber diaphragm my have a pin hole in it. You've played with the main jet seat adjustment. Big nut under the carb can be turned by hand if SU style carb. There's many how to tune guides out there for these cabs out there, none of them are easy and if you're a British side draft virgin I would recommend you get someone to show you how.

Flip it

Re. Rebody questions. This may help. Brother has been racing cars for years and has "reshelled" 3 now. As morkster says it's all about the paper work. As long as the new shell is legit and not stolen or writen of all is good. I don't think this would carry the same weight with the collector side of the market but it is common practice with competition cars.

The XA, XB and XC V8 with C4 powered Falcon with the column shift use a linkage that runs across the front of the trans pan to sort this problem. Getting hard to find now but they are out there. Before someone tells me such a thing doesn't exist, they do, I've owned a V8 Falcon with a bench seat and column shift.