Frosty

Did an RT87 few years ago. Ended up with custom vented rotors from a chap in the South Island with MR20 Turbo calipers on adapters at the front and early EVO disc setup on the back. I spent two days going through catalogs at Taranaki Brake and Clutch (mate owns it) and found nothing that worked as a package, found vented rotors but no calipers with the right offset or good calipers but no rotor that worked with it etc. This of course needs a cert. Your Corona might be different enough that there's something to bolt straight on but if not there are other options.

If you have a one piece drive shaft stick with it. The two piece ones with the CV in the middle are renowned for giving problems. I think the idea was to allow for a higher pinion angle without aggravating UJ bearing wear, all it did was make the shaft heaver, more complex, more prone to vibration and failing. Not to mention that if your car had a one piece there's probably no provision in the drive shaft tunnel for the middle mount.

You can get rag wheels to suit a Grinder or Drill, they work awesome with Autosol once you have the pitting sorted. Used the Strip, Sand imperfections out then Autosol with a polishing wheel (Rag Wheel) method heaps of times, it takes what seems like years to get them to really sparkle but when you see those wheels on your pride and joy is all worth it.

I've reused crush tubes, yes I know they need a new one. I look at it this way, the crush tube is there to make it easy and fast to get the preload right but a lot of older diffs just use shims, more time consuming but it works. So it all comes down to the preload, if it's right why change the crush tube, it's not hard to check preload you only need a torque wrench and a way the lock the pinion nut once it's right so replace the pinion nut with a locking type, Nylock or drill a hole and use a castellated nut or one of the over nut style ones wheel bearings use.

Mate you need a new mechanic, one that knows what a carb and points are. Heaps of things cause rough idle. Some can be immediately removed from the list due to new carb. Given the symptoms I would be looking at the distributor. Hard hot starting is usually a bad condenser and the rough idle from a worn main shaft in the distributor (points gap is erratic and changes with rpm). Find a dwell meter and a vacuum gauge and most importantly someone who knows how to use them. With three tools and an educated ear most tuning issues with carb and points engines can be diagnosed. Dwell meter checks how well the points are working, vacuum gauge looks at air flow and compression tester. Looking at the results together tells all. After market cams will cause a rough idle but it's regular, called hunting so you look for throttle response rather than a perfect idle if that's the case. Couple of other things to look at would be cam chain (timing issues) and lifters (worn ones will cause valves to open unevenly). Excessive fuming is poorly bedded or worn rings and or valve stem seals. Removing the vent pipe from inlet will cause oil leaks but do check the PCV valve they can stick.

If this is a recurring problem with the same workshop there's two possibilities. Poor quality head gasket or poor workmanship. I would be scared of mechanic that says it looked straight, looking straight and being straight are two very different things. There's a lot more to doing a head gasket than just bolting it on. My pick is dirty and unlubricated head studs and or the threads in the block, it can cause uneven torquing leading to seeping coolant or oil, they should be test fitted in the block to make sure they go in smoothly and easily.

Bugger me. Flat mate had one in Papamoa in the late 90's. I never thought I would see another one. Looks great mate, please keep us updated.

Get one of those cheep sand blaster kits from TardMe or Super Cheep and use Rice as the blasting media. Worked for me and they run of a normal Air Compressor, needs a reasonable amount of CFM even my Hinden couldn't keep up at times.

One of the carbs will have a tiny nipple between the butterfly and the manifold, that is where the vacuum advance line goes. The two larger nipples are for the vents, you can use ether the rocker cover or the clutch housing one you don't need both hooked up, block the other one off. The A series will leak every where without one or the other connected. If the little nipple isn't in one of the carbs drill a small hole in the manifold and fit one there, it needs to be between the throttle butterflies and the head or the advance won't work properly.

Had a Liteace do this to me and that put me in a ditch, scared the shit out of me. ST140 same as AA60 so replacements will go straight on and your springs will go on to. If you want the larger Cressida spec brakes and shocks then use the struts from a RT140 (18RG engine) or TT140 (3TGTE engine). MA60 or GA60 are unique to them and the GZ10 or MZ10 and not suitable for the Carina. In all cases the 0 at the end of the model code will be a 1, 2, 4 or 6 depending on number of doors and trim.

Fit buy pass valves. Quiet for Cert and WOF and loud for the track or when you just want more noise and it's legal.

Late model 1000cc engines run a double spring and are good for about 7500rpm, they also run a forged rocker arm which also helps in higher rpm work as they have far less deflection than the folded ones, also suffer less from rocker shaft and rocker tip wear. Watch out once fitted not to go much further than the 1275's red line as the cranks have a nasty habit of breaking at the center main journal if unbalanced. Built a heap of these when I was a younger man and always ran the factory 1000 springs even with the big 731 grind cams. They offer the low seat pressure needed for good scavenging but reduce float that the singles experience and they are oem so heaps of r and d behind them. Use the retainer as well.

What's used as the intake filter? Could be as simple as some grit in the switch mech. Most are serviceable so a good clean and lube should sort it out.

Cylinder head blow causes a hot spot in and around it, so if it just happens to be between 2 and 3 that section if cylinder wall gets to hot causing a crack aggravated by high pressure steam in the combustion chamber, all contributing to piston, lands and rings being damaged which causes fuming and oil consumption. I think that pretty much covers your list of woes. There's more than one reason for water / oil contamination when a head gasket blows. 1. Head gasket blow between water gallery and an oil passage letting water find it's way into the sump directly down an oil return slot. Doesn't always blow into a combustion chamber. 2. This time between a combustion chamber and a water gallery, this can also result in water in the oil but it takes longer as it has to bypass the rings to get into the sump but with a few hours running it will result in chocolate milk for a lubricant. 3, what I think is our problem here, blow between 2 and 3 also picking up a water gallery and an oil return, an unholy trifecta that can result in all your worst fears coming to fruition. Oil in the water, bad fuming and oil consumption, damaged pistons, eroded top of block and the surface of the head due to high pressure steam and combustion pressure swapping between the two cylinders. I do hope the block is fine but at the very lest check it for true, I think you will find the section between 2 and 3 is eroded, this alone might account for the low readings in 2 and 3, much more likely the rings or ring lands have been damaged though...................

If you want to confirm bad rings without pulling down the engine. Do a wet test. Same procedure as a normal compression test but you put a couple of caps of engine oil into the cylinder before you test. If the rings are buggered this should tell you, all your results will appear normal, ie all around 115psi. May want to consider a cylinder wall crack as well.

Very naughty! even for a wof. It's a job for the pros which = much $ and if a forged center even more $ due to two lots of machining with re-tempering in between.

NO. To rereg using a Black plate you need to prove the plate belongs to that vehicle. Original papers is the best way but they will accept photographic evidence, ether historic pics of the car or off the untampered plate and it's fixings.

Perfect. See you all there. At least some a willing to give it a go and I hope more will start once it's regular. Taranaki is woefully underrepresented in the Oldschool community and only we can change that, get off your asses and up from your couch and do something about it. NOW! Celebrate your love off old things and bring your tissues.

Bring your daily or catch a ride. Would be nice to see some of the projects, I know I have a couple on the go. Maybe do a shed tour, a couple each month as part of the meet instead of Devon St? Bike summit, Hell yeah. Couple of beds at my place.

Mid week evening good for me, but am available most nights. Wednesday or Thursday 7 ish, (30th or 31st). Odd weekend cruse bit further afield, hook up with the Palmy crew etc. I'm up for scaring locals on the walkway, I do a good drunk cycling thing even when sober. All those Terriers and Bejons better get ready. Time to put wof on the Rolla. hhhmmm............. and finish the Chopper. Arrr what have I done to myself.

Is there anyone interested in a meet in New Plymouth? Something like Burger King and a couple of laps through Devon St? I know I'm up for something and a couple of PM's to your area mod would indicate he's not interested in getting anything of the ground. So it's up to us to do something. Let me know your thoughts. On a side note I think we could do with a pedal powered crew in the Naki to. "Naki Crankers" has a nice ring oi it, again let me know your thoughts.

If you're going for Cert or need a cage for racing use these regs. Otherwise follow above but keep in mind replacement mounts like the pics above requires a cert. Those pink stickers can be a pain. http://www.motorsport.org.nz/sites/default/files/motorsport/forms/MSNZ%20Guidelines%20for%20Safety%20Cage%20Homologation.pdf

Question isn't "Is there such a thing as a road legal rotobongo?" Question is Why RotoBongo? Rotor guys would have all of us in PP Corona's or BMW's. Nether is a bad idea imo but there is a good case for pistons especially in Commercial vehicles (read here Compound Turbo Diesel).

Worked Eski engine. 4 to 1 Headers, 10" long 2" pipe, 2" Chambered Resonator, 2.25" intermediate pipe to behind the diff then 2.5" Back flow Muffler then 2.5" tail pipe if needed. My preferred muffler is Magna Flow but there heaps of other hi performance ones out there. Another trick I've seen is to cut the end of the chambered resonator and attach directly to the collector.

Once you have all the bits, Sender for tank and the range of movement worked out. Then drop in into a good Auto sparky or Instrument tech to re calibrate the KE gauge.