KKtrips

Build Thread - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/47056-anglia4s-68-mustang/ Choice - please be the first person in the history of the earth to actual lower one of these substantially and not have the nose pointing up in the air. Get super lows and cut off a coil to start with and throw in 2" blocks in the rear with a middle of the pack leaf removed. Then some 15x8's and 205 55 15's VOILA!

So Westfest is the Tuesday before Nats and I know a few jokers are travelling early to get in Westfest prior to Nats. I have a house booked for a few days around Westfest until I bail to head to Nats on Thursday mid morning. I have offered beds to a few jokers over the last few months and I just need to make sure I have not over committed myself - not that I think I have because there are 7 beds in the place and we can always do couches or floor if necessary. So far I know that there is Me, Shaz, Geoff and EJ Have I offered to anyone else? Chegan, Hemi, KY, Spence, someone else? I haven't forgotten you intentionally I promise. I am just a bit forgetful when I don't write things down and I never wrote this tidbit of info down. Chur

It's a 71-74 third gen Dodge Charger grille with the an inch or two of the centre bar cut out and the sides squished together.

Just come back from Wagnats - WOW what a time. My favourite picture of Wagants - 1000 words etc... Before I left last week I swapped out my gearbox with a freshly rebuilt sucker and also threw some new wheels and tyres on it. I didn't update this thread before Wagnats as I wanted it to be a surprise when I turned up. Anyhow I now have a car that drives smooth and shifts gear like the fingers of god himself are changing gears. I am currently the happiest with my car that I have ever been. Still a whole lot more to go with body and interior but in the 400Km I've clicked over during in the last week it's proven the driveline and suspension wise it is in the fuckin zone and I am stoked like crazy. /I needs more horsepower. ...and that people is why you need a wagon - to carry all your shit when you go camping.

Put the rack behind the crossmember and run the struts swapped left and right? Not sure how that would effect the angle of the steering arm through the range of motion but that sounds easier to rectify with custom steering arms rather than moving the firewall and losing all the footwell.

Hello

You could probably tighten it with a drift and a hammer. Also you may want to specify if it is a 12 sided socket you want as it looks kinda like a 12 sided nut in your build thread picture.

Can it be looked at during the day tomorrow? Possibly I can.

Woohoo, close to home.

Unfortunately I will now not be in Wellington this weekend. Mid afternoon Saturday down Port Rd is locked in with Jesse dependent on weather. So can someone please grab the torch from me and make a plan for everyone once the weather is confirmed to be decent? Cheers

This is all lined up, weather dependent. Will reassess on Friday before making any detailed plans though.

Cool I'll organise something with the Jess man, I'll say around 3.

Should we arrange something out Seaview next weekend? Saturday afternoon or something. The marina could be a sweet backdrop? Jessy, when do you head to the South Island?

How much?

Disregard comment in Spam - fuck that sucks. But I can understand how it happens - I hope the locating pin in the piston has not come adrift.

Volvo's just look so sweet on wide steel rims

So Oregon looking spec - expect this to be in some early 80's college horror story. (by that I mean it's boss as fuck) Needs some 16" steel rims.

Nah I have just got cert so I am bound by my current height more or less. Thanks though.

Give Diesel and Turbo a ring - they stock all the oil for Caltex LNI.

I think we should change your nickname from Mr Beaver to Master Beater.

Moral of the story - set up the diff and gearbox angle to work with the slam job. Then modify the driveshaft tunnel, floorpan and bump stops to suit. Making the angles suit the bodywork is just long term pain.

In that case - dropping the back of the gearbox down will be giving you a world of hurt. Just check that the rubbing isn't the driveshaft rubbing on seatbelt mount bolts that are too long. (surprisingly common)

Earth to motor is needed or it will try and earth through the point of least resistance and that can be as dumb as your accelerator cable, clutch cable, or even choke cable. If your coil is mounted on the body then it could be trying to earth via the coil negative wire when the points are closed which could cause this very problem. If you don't have an easy way to connect an earth between motor and body/battery then as a test - run a 20amp cable from the distributor clamp bolt to the negative on the battery. Keep an eye/hand on how hot that cable gets. Especially when cranking. Disconnect your tacho for shits and giggles too.

Few things to check Check your charge rate isn't too high (14.7 max) and that you have a good earth from the battery to the block, and body too. Cleaning the tip of the points is important before firing up. But that looks like too much voltage to me - not contamination. Check the condensor is correctly wired. It should be wired to join into the wire that runs between the coil negative post and the distributor. Make sure you have continuity between the advance plate and the body of the distributor. This is normally achieved through a super flexible pigtail wire inside the distributor. (see pic) Also disconnect any tacho you may have wired in - just to eliminate that as a potential cause - even though I doubt it. Pigtail wire is this one here with the arrows pointing to the screws. (if it doesn't go near the body of the contacts then it does not need to be insulated)

Actually - 150 to 200mm square is only a box about 15mm x 15mm. I'm hoping you mean 200 x 200mm approx? Although if you are only getting an afternoon of time and 6-8 people that would only be 30-45 min of pinstriping per person.