Jump to content

Testament

Members
  • Posts

    9882
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by Testament

  1. adaptors dont straight up make the reading wrong, but certainly add to potential for other forces to come into play than just twisting. This can certainly cause incorrect/less actual torque to the fastener. a bit like installing dry vs various types of lubes reality is many cases you have to use extensions etc to reach certain fasteners, just have try to do your best to only apply torque and minimise out of plane/bending forces.
  2. Testament

    PAINT THREAD

    +1 durepox. I have stuff I got from my uncles estate, must be over 20years old and its still good. well good enough to stick to things at least.
  3. @Roman wouldnt you want a minimum speed, rather than off completely at low/no load? unless thermosiphon morris minor stuff goes on?
  4. https://www.instagram.com/p/COoy8WLskO7/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
  5. so implying more of an allowance for race/rally cars with stripped interiors
  6. dunno, rock auto do it pretty well but yeah everyone else fucks it up
  7. I just put alloy spool of wire+ matching size tip in normal mig welder+handpiece. has rolls with different knurl for alloy I think/maybe/cant remember. Plus pure argon for shielding. It works acceptably but its suited more for thicker/structual type stuff because you end up with not enough heat to start with, or enough to start with but it gets too hot quickly. so difficult to make a nice job of anything that is only a short weld. Also you are relying on the arc to blast the oxisided layer off, which with mig means wire going so this also is a factor in shitty starts to welds unless you can run higher amps etc. (i.e. thicker materials) The other tip with using it in a regular mig is to keep the torch lead as straight as possible. I never had any issues with brids nests etc. just the aforementioned limitations of the setup
  8. Testament

    PAINT THREAD

    I don't know what I'm doing/rookie Dave/this thread showed me how 2pac and Ive always put a little thinners in, just to get consistency right the durepox is too thick with nothing added. Not as much as if I was spraying it, just a little splash. But yeah, different paint, and I don't know what I'm doing with this stuff.
  9. Everyone ever says 4l60 goes in the bin if it's more than a standard motor. Just know you will be blowing it up and putting something else in, and if your ok with that well then it's your choice. If it was me I'd put my time and money into something else as you can't reuse clutch/convertor etc in Anything else after it's grenaded.
  10. Testament

    PAINT THREAD

    Weird, did you use any thinners? Mayber the hardener has lost its mojo Only ever used durepox and often get the opposite issue of having to work real fast/brush turning to wood by the end of the job /Ling
  11. yeah g size just never ever forget to turn off the valve overnight
  12. 309/308 stick, for welding together mysteries
  13. If the port shape/size is good it probably doesn't make it materially worse, so if some engine builder is all about it and builds everything else good you could easily have a positive bias result bias. i.e. it would have been a great motor without but you didnt test that. pretty sure the next secret will be to paint the ports yellow because thats the fastest colour.
  14. I almost posted the question there, but didnt want to sully the purity with tootooed with alfa 156 d2 supertourer port
  15. 1. most of them are resuseable - the issue is disassembly without damage - a heat gun can help here rather than prying too hard and risking gouging sealing surfaces 2. if the hose ID/OD are right for the fitting it should be ok but there is some potential for issues, so its up to you how confident you are and how critical the hose/connection is. The short answer is its not recommended by the manufacturers 3. yes, but see 2. as it depends if the fitting is designed to accept both types of hose/both hoses have the same ID/OD dimensions. Ideally better to have the correct end fittings for each hose going to a threaded connection in between 4. there are lots of local sellers NZKW, STA, scarles, cardwells, proparts, etc. etc. etc. the list goes on google is your friend
  16. Race car paint is orange peel because fast/cheap paint job
  17. Golf ball inlet port? Yeah I dunno, anyone seen/heard of this? I'm thinking that's quite different a golf ball spins/rotates and does a higher speed for a while at least. Cool points for aesthetics though.
  18. how does the seat of the pants difference feel in the lower RPM driving round? the tvis intake does make 5?kw more in the low end which doesnt sound like much but is quite a bit when its only making 40kw total at those engine speeds. I'm guessing its not an issue because you dont drive a 4age anything like a truck?
  19. so governing restriction is the intake valve opening/curtain area rather than the ports smallest cross section? more cam lift or bigger valves needed to max out port flow?
  20. no a pinion gear and crown gear/ring gear in a hypoid/spiral bevel gearset are a matched set. you can have a pinion gear with the same number of teeth as another for a different ratio and they wont match as the geometry is different (the angle on the spiral will be different). then ontop of that they are matched to fit each other closely to minimise shims/adjustments required as well was being the correct geometry. tl;dr e.g. a 9 tooth pinion from a 37/9 (4.11) set wont properly fit with a 41/9 (4.56) ring gear and you shouldn't mix and match pinions and ring gears from separate diffs. it might work if you are in deepest africa and have no other choice - but its not correct, and you will probably have a bad time trying to setup the gears correctly to last and take high loads without failing.
  21. if thats no joy - most of my rockauto orders this year have turned up the following week, it's really been quite amazing how quick the shipping has been just with the regular cheap shipping not choosing ups overnight from japan.
  22. getting quite off topic now, but anglia4 opened the wormcan generally for the fox you lower the car ~50mm and fit something like this which moves the arms up and forward also note how ridiculously short they are - good for 7's on "stock suspension"
  23. the closer to the axle centerline the higher the forces on the arms to resist axle torque, I think the distance between them is more just in terms of getting the angles for the geometry you want and fitting in the space available.
  24. the IC is the location the force is acting on the chassis when you account for the push/pull of the top and bottom links - as you implied it is where the ladder bar would be attached to the chassis if it was a ladder bar. travel is not too bad for starters you know the rear weight within reason is probably around 200kg/corner +/- 50kg droop can only be weight x spring rate unless you have progressive or additional keeper springs uptravel is probably limited by diff or driveshaft hitting the floor. Check the NZCC but I think its something like 50mm up and down minimum, and well you probably wouldnt want any less for curvy road enjoyment anyway. 3 link vs 4 link? any opinions/experiences? I have heard of racing guys removing a top link from a 4 link to help traction alledgedly. seems dubious to me and maybe just a barry story someone did this and the car was fast so that must be the thing to do........ and well you would need to make the remaining link stronger since you at least double the load on it........ I know in 4x4 circles 3link+panhard flexes better than 4link+ panhard but alot of that is really more about packaging (for solid front axles) than the difference really being material to performance.
×
×
  • Create New...