Testament

Neither the early link or the ms2 will do full sequential. The ms2 can do semisequential squirting the injectors twice or four times per cycle so some of the fuel is injected on the back of the valve before intake valve opening. If you want proper sequential you need a modern link or ms3 or something else haltech/autronic/motec etc etc etc

more likely he is a wally

I do like the part how it tells you it is so easy to use

What pcd? The issue I see is mostly the smaller diameter rims and getting the right rolling diameter tyre. Theres not a lot of options to stay under 580mm tyre diameter and get wider than 6 or even 7" rim at all. If only you could 3d print tyres in low volumes or something

td04s came on some volvos too. there are a few variants tdo4, tdoh tdo4l tdo4hl and yeah there are different exhaust housing bolt patterns for different manufacturers anecdotally the later/bigger ones with the letter on the end are good upgrade turbos for smaller motors up to around 1.6L looking to put out up to ~200hp atw

apparently even just the carpark is crazy. i missed out on that when i went to the revival but not really was overflowing with '50s f1 car sounds and vulcan bomber exploding everything with wow that i dont think I could have coped with more

summit is indeed truly legit

A: Balloon drag tyres for everyone

what turbo is on it/what other work has been done? did it reach the same/more boost when auto?

went and had a bit of a sunday funday in dodgysams paddock yesterday prosciutto fisted driving maybe, but its pretty fun. could really do with a quickrack for this kind of thing though! so much sawing the wheel and pedalling

4wd does the shoulder scrubbing, mabye fwd a little too. what car is it? I would think the top tier or two of performance spec tyres from most of the bigger brands are probably decent so depends what shop can do what deal if you are looking for a good price

good job. fyi I'm pretty sure the big block 1242cc motor from the puntos bolts to the gearbox. no doubt it wont fit and will make your life hell for how many other reasons. something anyway. the turbo 1400 from the grande punto/500abarth/alfamito might even go in there i think its based off the same architecture but good luck those existing at wreckers for a reasonable price unless you know a guy with a beard. anyway panda, much loltasticness in a tiny cube

Maybe with more slam? Dunno. I agree its not quite 100% What speed rating are they anyway? H or V are probably ok not sure about T

dunno, 55lb/in in a small light car might be ok with some decent DA shocks to get down the track.

I would think you are ok, except for bolts holding together steering suspension and braking components those should be left factory. many of them would be nyloc anyway. bolts you could paint but you cant replace them with any old bolt if they are holding those parts together. often they are specific material spec or have specific thread lengths and shoulder lengths. so sure if you can find a new bolt the exact same in all aspects. also you don't want paint where things need to fit etc. as it makes the bolt thicker and it wont fit. also paint in the wrong place could give you an off torque reading. also the paint will likely get ruined if you have to torque the fastener with any great amount of force. also you dont want nylocs where they can get hot and melt near exhaust or heat generating brake components. so basically cosmetic stuff yes. but to me it seems like a rod for your own back. get them cleaned and re passivated or whatever and be done with it?

bags and piles and mounds, an entire desert of grinding dust. Spent almost of whole weekend on this, got a bit done. started with the subframe connectors on the passenger side, cut into the factory front chassis rail then continued the cut most of the way to bulkhead the rear lower control arms mount to in order to be able to drop a piece of 75x50x3 in there to tie the front and rear of the car together seeing as ford hadn't thought that was particularly worthile. and mounting/footplate welded into the firewall to tie it into then lots of measuring and boggling around the order of business and how the seat mounts and rollcage footings will be tied into all this drew some things and cut some things then set myself on fire for some mild saturday afternoon excitement more measuring and fettling. cut out the piece of cracked floor to make way for more 75x50 for the rear seat mount then the tricky thing of making a plate to fit the sill to mount the 75x50 to, using various pieces of bending and drawing technology turned out great really happy with the fitup so far, still quite a bit of fiddly work with wrapping the mounting plates around the sills and things for the cage footings but I have been cutting out the plates for the other side as I go along and now I have the method worked out the productivity to boggle ratio should improve markedly.

and

bags

wilwoods? 2 pot early lancer evo maybe rx7 possibly

fuck the chickens get dominated. new manifold and one of these with 4 corner idle circuit will do the bussiness

ah yep ok. baffling as to why unibody makes any difference when the concern is hitting parts of yourself on the cage but rules are rules. maybe to allow for space frame things? I don't know/doesn't really matter. Was only a thought that would make life marginally simpler anyway.

That was my understanding until reading the section of the hobby car manual pertaining to this, which indicates that a full cage can potentially be certed without a motorsport authority card if it doesnt intrude into the 'A' passenger protection area. hence my question to confirm this. Is that a full cage Bart?

I was reading through the hobby car manual last night, specifically the section about passenger compartment areas and rollcages/rollbars. Am I correct in reading that if the rollcage bars are 100% outside of the 'A' category passenger protection zone a full cage can be certed under the cert process rather than requiring an authority card? it appeared from the drawing that provided full harness or web type 3 point seatblets are used this is 320mm wide centred on the seat and 700mm long arc from the hip point of the front seats at the horizontal and traced around in an arc to the back angle of the seats. not a major issue one way or the other really but reading it made me think this could potentially save having to get yet another piece of paper and pay another fee

1st thing earth clamp as said, including the connection at the welder end of the cable inside of the welder. second is the trigger button although the wire feed is working so less likely. then welder end of the button circuit. maybe check the power cord too if you went hard at some point and its got a shit codr it could be cooked or you had it next to one of your lines at some point and accidentally cut the insulation then after that something be fritz in the magic smoke containing parts and you need a bearded sparky