Jump to content

Testament

Members
  • Posts

    9882
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by Testament

  1. as a fellow black mercedes owner I can tell you driving your black mercedes will make your life better every day so I can suggest finishing it urgently is very worthwhile and will improve returns on future property speculation/race car ownership.
  2. That 500cc in the runner can't go into the cylinder unless another 500cc takes its place though, and the chain goes on. It depends where the choke point in the inlet tract is though... . Not as big a deal on n/a with itbs but on a turbo car having a big plenum can be of benefit in this sense.
  3. more welding then used cunning rat technology the worlds nutterest right angle non variable high speed drill combined with much bastardry to hopefuly get the instant center higher up and further forward given the ride height desired but I think now the tide may have turned, with just about all the horrible upside down welding to shitty sheetmetal done and more straightforward and obvious fabrication left anti roll bar tacked in place and prepping to install the coil over mountiing bar. have to box out the rails and make some towers for that to mount it high enough for the desired ride height with the 7" stroke shocks I have
  4. -45 offset is pretty common on 10" wide 4x4 rims the issue on pretty much all cars this kind of offset is going to be mexipoking easily 50 to 100mm outside of the bodywork and will either require massive flares or a super narrow diff and modifying or backhalfing the chassis to make room for the wheels inside the bodywork. both of these things do get done sometimes (check out what sheepers did to get the fitment on his crown coupe how he wanted it), just it is quite a lot of work, so usually people compromise 20-40mm less dish to so that they can squeeze them into factory wheel tubs and guards with a little persuasion rather than extensive chassis and body modification.
  5. or sedgedins on dom rd (different shop altogether to sta) would have that stz. get denham to hook you up a he knows them pretty well. also pioneer autoparts would be another option. just price check on summit/rockauto first it should be pretty cheap for stock stuff though just make sure you get your vehicle/motor spec right as there are some differences if it is a vortec or LT1 motor
  6. the bottle is a volume and has a mass of gas in it under pressure as you let it out the gas inside still takes up the same volume even though there is less mass of gas left in the bottle so the pressure is lower same thing goes in the hose and with the flow but simply the pressure downstream of the regulator will be proprotional to flow just not linearly, i.e. 20psi does not equal twice as much flow as 10psi. it is also likely the calibrations on different flow meters and pressure gauges could be off. the simple answer is set the thing where you think it should be, then keep turning the gas down until it effects your welding (on a test piece of course) also note changing torch size and gas lens/cup sizes etc. will effect the amount of gas used - you might be able to see that on the flow meter if you leave the regulator set at the same pressure and change one thing at a time.
  7. when is someone going to man up and get the matt black ultra dominator...............
  8. fyi link is sold rebranded at vipec in europe but basically any fully programmable ecu will do the job providing you can get adequate support and tuning to get it running and tuned. advantage of the link might be that you could get a reasonable mail order tune but that isn't really that big of a deal tbh.
  9. yeah it has the cheet sheet but its taken a bunch of experimenting to get the hang of it really that put me wrong a few times, acts a bit different to transformer types esp when filling holes in thin stuff. thick stuff 3mm and up though it is great as much power as you dare and then there is still much much more available. biggest complaint though is the nozzle seems a bit loose? like in tight sometimes if you touch it on the workpiece or can kick it over and it touch the tip then it can arc out the side rather than through the wire and the the world is not good...... need to get a few consumables and couple of spare helmet visor cover thingies too actually.
  10. 1992 r129 sl500 should be all electronic hfm system shouldn't it? Got any pics Allan?
  11. have you checked the codes? there is a connector that can do some flashing light code things on these, on my W124 it was by the fuse box in the area just behind the RH strut tower http://www.mercedes.gen.in/WP35/mercedes-older-series-diagnostic-fault-code-reading-w124-r129-others/
  12. sorry by msns (megasquirt and spark) I mean ms2/extra it's the newest code that runs on the same hardware and is what most people run as it has lots more features, is more developed and works better than the "oem" bowling and grippo code which is super old now. latest version is 3.4 I think http://www.msextra.com/manuals/ms2manuals/ http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/Megasquirt2_Setting_Up-3.4.pdf/Megasquirt2_Setting_Up-3.4.html
  13. yeah just get set of 8 plus plug leads (note the coil to ignition lead connection is a pin not a cup on these so you cant use any old lead with a conventional end) plus maybe the plug/loom that goes from the central plug to make life easy as well - although you could cut that off and connect to the wires directly if you wanted. depends how/where you plan to mount them. and yeah you can fire two at a time for wasted spark so you only need 4 digital low current ignition outputs. definitely read the megamanual and especially read the MSnS manual as that is the code you want to use and a few things are a little bit different.
  14. if the top of the engine moves 25mm yours engine mounts are rubbish tbh. ain't no 572 BBC
  15. either A) dont mill them at all and run 10:1 as suggested and pull boost and or timing to get it to hold together or just mill a small amount rather than right to flat. milling the skirts would only be an idea worth considering if you are raising the engine redline and you are trying to lighten the rotating assembly. oil squirters, if they are there probably just leave them unless the engines are known to have shitty oil pressure.
  16. no doubt, but the average tuner probably has more experience with fixing poorly installed links
  17. ^this is the biggest issue with MS and dynos quite fairly dyno guy hates it when some guy turns up with junk that doesnt work right/has problems. this is alot more likely/more common with MS because of its DIY nature and harder for them to diagnose/fix than a link
  18. theres not alot you have to compromise on, you just dont have the room to add extras as much. they will still do a 2 wire idle control, boost control, two step. assembled MS II without loom is >$100USD more expensive than an assembled microsquirt
  19. Does the engine use a distributor or not? if it doesnt the microsquirt will need a small mod to get an additional ignition output. but basically microsquirt is the goods unless you want an MS3
×
×
  • Create New...