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Testament

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Everything posted by Testament

  1. Testament
    figuring out shopping list of what else i need to complete fuel and oil system plumbing. just like work, everything has different thread and fitting size so you have to step through each connection one by one and think which adaptor, which hose end etc. is needed, plus measure and check threads because you cannot believe anyone or anything until proven right. e.g. a 3/8 -18tpi NPT male fitting goes about 5 turns into a 9/16 -18tpi female thread because of the taper but its wrong. would seal with loctite 567 and ptfe tape if you had to but trying to do a better job on this occasion. up next.....giant flaming hole in wallet
  2. Testament
    will depend on injector size/duration of pulsewidth and timing relative to valve events. e.g injection during overlap or not etc. as well as valve open/closed. when you inject during overlap you end up with a leaner mix since some amount of fuel is is buggering off out the exhaust. could explain your dip around 400-450 deg. use some ms paint technology to add intake and exhaust valve opening on the right hand y axis?
  3. Testament
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-4-Hex-HSS-High-Speed-Steel-Thread-Spiral-Screw-M3-M4-M5-M6-M8-M10/32687876380.html
  4. Testament
    thems some holes in my tinfoil hat Ah well, at least its clean inside
  5. Testament
    sweet deal now its good to take to pureora rub all the panels and break off the other mirror
  6. Testament
    much work over the weekend mott came round on saturday and helped a bunch finishing welding up all the exhaust stuff that I had fitted up and tacked togethe,r while i worked on the thesis for my turd polishing doctorate. not only had the good old boys bo and luke of north taranaki been trying to emulate randy campbells greatest ever stunt and bashed the crap out of the fuel tank, it had some epic corrosion paint coating chemistry going on which took several hours of wire wheeling to remove and find out what specification colander i have. Im guessing the combination of the rustpaint protective coating and the holes being on the top of the tank meant no one ever noticed previously. anyway got all the paint and rust and shite off, cleaned and treated the rust. will have to cut and weld and patch in the top and the one pit hole in the bottom and some of the dents will get sorted with the fitting on the sump. also made up a frame and and brackets to mount the tank and got all that done. will get onto fitting the sump and repairing the tank next. PS thanks again jack ma, can vouch that these all in one drillytappy things with impact driver hex drive are astonishingly better that what i expected actually work awesome
  7. Testament
    applied maths and string theory zing they see me chooching
  8. Testament
    https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/bsn-24-022156/overview/year/1995/make/land-rover/model/range-rover https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/bsn-24-022149/overview/year/1995/make/land-rover/model/range-rover
  9. Testament
    everyday turn more steel into dust unsure exactly where I want the exhaust to end so cut it a little long and will see how it looks when its on its wheels. put the turbo kit back in temporarily to check fitment and of course needed to slit most of the joins to take the pipe strain out so everything will play nicely. will put the guard back on and make the hole in that while its all there
  10. Testament
  11. Testament
    because looks sweet pretty sure its 90% just for rigidity, certainly is in this case. maybe in a full on Winston cup car there is some voodoo to do with reversion and expansion/contraction of gasses but even there I am pretty sure they mostly do it for packaging/max lowness and its just bracing so it keeps its shape at a million degrees and 200mph
  12. Testament
    if that's where the bakery is
  13. Testament
    made up a crossmember for the driveshaft hoop to mount to. need to take some 50x6 flatbar and use the rollers at work to make a circle to go on there. tig welded up the nascar rectangle thing. fuck me my left hand is shaky lol. good practice though apart from all the gas in my bottle disappearing rather quickly.
  14. Testament
    131/132/argenta 5 speed zf gearbox is alloy case, there is no steel case fiat twincam gearbox. they have steel synchros though. completely different case design and ~90mm longer than the 124 5 speed. but as above they only came in the 2L cars afaik. depends what year the 131 is, the early ones had ohv motors which wouldnt be much of a upgrade from a lada motor but if its a later supermirafiori it could have the twincam 1600 which is an ok motor. not the torqueyist but the shortest stroke of the twincams so can rev out pretty well. 95hp standard with a single carb and room for tweaking that up if desired.
  15. Testament
  16. Testament
    L200 chassis - its meant to have a 4G/Astron/oil burner/smoke machine innit
  17. Testament
    keeping on smashing at this nugget quite a bit of time in welding up a bunch of seams, small holes and little reinforcements here and there. working on getting everything on the bottom of the car sorted. a bunch more measurements to figure more or less where things will likely sit. got prehistoric on the back end of the trans tunnel to make some more room for the drive shaft. fiexed up the hori gearbox mount rookiedave and mott made ages ago. ground off the bits they had glued on, welded up all the holes and re machined the crossmember to suit a factory GM powerglide mount. started on the exhaust next. with it being 3.5"/90mm really trying to tuck it up to the maximum possible to avoid getting beached at the still relatively unslammed slammedness that will be possible. to further this following some stick poking, umming, ahhing decided to make a nascar boom tube inspired rear section. keeps the same or greater cross sectional area with 40mm more clearance. still a bit of work to go go from round to rectangle but happy with the progress. need to get some more tube in 22x3 this week and try to scrounge a section of 200NB steam pipe for the driveshaft hoop. once those are done re fit the fuel tank temporarily to figure out how to mount the fuel system and get all the mounting points for fuel lines, trans cooler lines and such things done.
  18. Testament
    double check tyres and measure wheel centreline or rim height from ground - make sure these are the same side left to right at front and at back. doesn't matter if different from front to back as long as they match side to side at the front and at the back. then measure ground to chassis at both front and rear leaf spring/shackle bolts left and right (the bolt on the chassis side of the shackle - check the shackles are the same left to right while you are there), and same at the front, ground to front and rear a arm bolts. try to be as accurate as practical, +/- 1mm would be good (measurement accuracy, not difference in heights) if you can use a plumb bob or a square or something and mark their locations on the ground, again spend time to get as accurate as practical within a couple of mm, its a tricky thing unless you spend time to make some fancy jig. then draw a bunch of lines to see if the chassis is square. Ideally the opposing diagonals should be within about 5mm but 10mm is probably OK on with something like your truck and the accuracy of the measurements. draw a picture/table with all the numbers and report back
  19. Testament

    PAINT THREAD

    Testament replied to dylan's topic in Tech Talk

    depends if you are painting on bare metal/well prepped surface or over other paint. por15 doesn't stick great to other paint I used it in my jeep and its flaked in a lot of places it was over the factory paint. that said I didn't prep it well which is probably most of the issue. But the other thing to note with por 15 and painting inside the car is the fumes - even though I was outside with the doors open I ended up too close to the paint while painting a lot of hard to reach areas and felt shitty from it for a number of days afterwards. definitely respect that stuff and wear a mask with appropriate filters if you have one, or at least absolutely keep your distance from the wet paint and fumes. if spencer is still alive he will chime in and tell us we are all dweebs to forget that garbage and run proper epoxy. if you read this whole thread that story and all the requisite information is here.
  20. Testament
    go home your both drunk
  21. Testament
    right side up upside down welding removed even more car made a C notch for more slam and got fully sideways
  22. Testament
    mostly they are all old and worn by now. they aren’t the strongest gearbox in the world but considering they were originally designed for a 90hp 1.4L they do alright. if you are just driving and fanging around on the road i wouldn’t be concerned at all. no clutch kicks and a little sympathy with shift speed and no problem. usually its the brass syncros that get wanged and the selector forks get worm and they feel like a bit of a cock in a sock. if you get too aggressive with you shifting speed the syncros seem to get damaged in a way that they spit out of whatever gear you wanged them on. I've done this with two gearboxes behind the supercharged 2L. both times getting over zealous with the shifting at trackdays. the first one had seen plenty of thrashing behind the original 1800 beforehand which probably didn’t help. then the second one, well pot luck second hand gearbox lottery. looked ok before hand though when i took the bottom cover off to inspect. worked find until i abused it haha. I’m still driving around on it , just it pops out of 3rd on engine braking if you don’t hold it in gear. The actual gears and shafts seem not so bad - can confirm they are stronger than the axles.......
  23. Testament
    yeah and non bypass non clutched non intercooled supercharged and injected means other things haha going from whats said here I need to drop the timing, wind my throttle stop out a bit more. complete opposite to what I had been doing - currently have about 20 deg since I tuning for highest idle and winding the stop in to bring the rpm back down. I other thing I think I need to play with is my air temp corrections since the ability to heat soak and go mega lean off throttle is horrendous. have the water injection there but really I want to tune it so it runs fine without it (in case you run out of water of have a pump failure etc.) and use the air temp correction to make finer adjustments to fuel or timing if the air is denser.
  24. Testament
    What are peoples thoughts on tuning for a stronger idle? specifically with only an on/off type idle valve one issue I have with the rather aggressive 6 puck solid centre clutch in the fiat its pretty easy to stall if you don't drive like a criminal 100% While some of that is just tough luck buddy rev it up and drop the clutch, it does seem like something could be done to improve it a little. like it occasionally (but not every time) dies when returning from free revving in neutral etc. when im pretty certain that a factory '80s injected car wouldn't and I don't see why I cant achieve at least that level of tune with the adjustability in the megasquirt/microsquirt. Can post up some of my maps/settings a bit later when Im home.
  25. Testament
    either 0.8 or 0.6 can work just need to adjust technique. which is most of the battle - finding what settings and gun angles work for your welder in which positions on what thicknesses and shittiness of surfaces etc. a lot of the time for car stuff you are pretty restricted in position and length of bead before overheating the thin stuff or just running into movement obstacles that require you to physically move yourself. so I usually end up running relatively hotter than what "normal" fabrication welding would recommend because you have to do a series of tacks or very short welds and you need the higher power to get enough penetration at the start of the weld. this then means you have to stop and/or increase your torch distance shortly after starting to reduce the heat input. other recommendations - tip within 0-5mm of end of nozzle - sometimes you need to cut the nozzle of the welder shorter to achieve this. start welds with the gun real close/ short ~5-10mm wire stickout from tip when starting to give you more initial penetration with less power and wire speed my 2c anyway
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