Yowzer

you can weld cast, just have to heat it up well and good first (eg 200deg plus). cast suspension parts might raise eyebrows though. Yah, I meant from a certifiable point of view. Sure you can weld it, but I'm pretty sure you'll never get it legal.

Ah right. Yeah leave it for a couple of weeks and see if it comes right. Otherwise, I dunno. Blast the whole car with a fresh topcoat or something.

From what I've heard, welding of any cast parts is a nono. Cletus could clarify on that, but am pretty sure that's the case.

However if you can still see the primer patches through the paint, that could also be why. Shall be wanting another coat.

Other panels have a slight layer of oxidation? Give them a cut n polish and see what happens. I may be wrong here, but I think some paints change shade ever so slightly as they cure too. So maybe you need to wait a few weeks or something.

The entire rear weight of your car is supported by those 4 bolts. Probably not something you should risk making yourself. But meh. Why not.

I am quite sure a turbo setup like that is designed to not fit under the bonnet.

Should have it on a Saturday. I no longer works Saturdays. I do however work Sundays, which is a multitude of gayness.

Replace with a pinto. Pretty obvious I'd have thought.

Howabout the main power wire then? Corrosion or anything? Alt to Bat and Bat to loom etc

If you are getting a 30ohm resistance between block and battery, that is probably a large part of your problem. Find a chuck of fat gauge wire (4awg or so) and slap a new earth wire from block to battery. See what happens after that.

I have a fucked engine if you need a block. I think the block itself is still in good condition I'm guessing you're fussed on its condition though?

yes, reliable. Yes, they can fail completely. I guess the point I was really trying to make was that they are in a state of decline from the moment of manufacture (the heated wire), obviously it's a time not use thing. So, eventually they might not fail completely but they can be in such a poor state that they are worse than not having one (the value it's sending is so wrong, so out of relationship with the air flow, the device is useless). Sorry I was referring to the EGT sensor in that post, not the MAF. Solution for the MAF issue is replace with a MAP sensor and Link ECU / 2ZZ

Wow you guys have a mean turnout! The hammeat consisted of Brad and Courtney and I.

Is this this awesome biodegradable insulation some auto manufactures thought was a good idea?

Those sensors are generally pretty reliable though aren't they? Dunno if they use K type like all the aftermarket deals, but there's not really anything that can go wrong with them without failing completely. In saying that though, if the wiring to them is damaged or deteriorated it could effect the resistance and give a false temperature value.

I think some weird form of air flow sensor is effectively a heated temp sensor, and calculates the air flow based on the temperature drop of the sensor as the air flows over it? Or something like that? That sounds like the MAF thing you are describing, which would explain why the car runs like crap when it's covered in gunk. [edit] already answered.

The weather actually looks like it's gonna be not too bad. I could quite happily have a beer in the afternoon sun. I'll be there around 6:30-7ish

So how many people are gonna be at this?

Nothing an angle grinder can't solve.

Yah decreasing poost will do nothing to the engines efficiency. All you are doing is limiting its power. However if you were to also up the compression and tweak the fuelling you could potentially increase its efficiency and make it more economical. But that's not really feasible.

Lump of cast iron to the sack?

Apparently the factory flywheel is really shit?

As KK said, a 270 or so should do ya fine

On like donkey kong