CUL8R

Peugeot or Early Mondeo Steels are 4/108 Was hoping for K24 repower TBH lol

Was about to say those boosters a pretty fancy bit of kit. Drove a good customers Manual 210 Chevrolet with a 9", 454 and "normal" disc brakes - with "GM" single pot calipers - nothing out of the ordinary disc about the same as a XF falcon, and it stopped like it was fitted with Wilwoods and 17" rotors. Was extremely impressed with them. Dont they run a massive line pressure something like 2000psi? Apparently his was one of the first cars in NZ to have this setup and the LVVTA weren't very familiar with it.

Lol do you think they would pick up on a 60mm throttle body that looks Mitsubishi OEM over 54mm, on his well used Mirage vs the guys that have fresh "rebuilt" motors - fully caged and 10x the dollars invested in them? The same guys that put brand new springs, struts and expensive bumpstops in for each incremental advantage over the rest?

Those castor rods, dont throw them out yet, some oldschool places used to heat and bend them slightly to give some adjustment to the castor - ie if it has a bit of a pull, the bent castor rod will pull the wheel further forward to increase castor...

Out of interest, does anyone use the heated regulators - with the C02 when doing large amounts of welding it freezes up ... ? Pain in the ass

Hey Graeme, I have a leaf sprung hiace diff (rather than surf 4 link - easier to cut mounts off), with 5 stud axles you can have for $150 if you want

Nissan is 12x1.25 Toyota 12x1.5 Falcon 1/2" HQ 7/16" Triumph should be 7/16" from memory

What throttle bodies are you using? Should sound raucus indeed. How come the 4.1 rather than say a Barra or even AU-EL? Saw you driving past couple weeks ago with a big sheet of panel steel!

http://www.performancewheels.com.au/product/magnum-forged/ http://www.performancewheels.com.au/product/hotwire-forged-copy/ http://www.performancewheels.com.au/product/superlite-15/ http://www.work-wheels.co.nz/Products/55/60/MEISTER-S1-2P http://www.work-wheels.co.nz/Products/88/60/MEISTER-CR01 Depending on what stud pattern you plan on running front & rear obviously..

Been so long Im not 100% sure now unfortunately!

Coming along really nicely indeed! There's a guy down here, Tubby that works at Supercheap Auto that has a 2.3 Twin Cam Chevette Speedway car, I think one motor was setup for methanol, the other for Av Gas - pretty much retired the car from use but he still has it.

Usually 6-7 turns of thread is acceptable. Its not so much about how far it pokes through the wheel as alot of the Euro cars have a 5-6mm flange - usually from the brake rotor before the threads engage in the hub.. Dont want to go too long either as its common for them bottom out on the hub and hit handbrakes etc

Rob, Whitley tune has a lovely A series Manifold for bike carbs.... Nice score Alex, look forward to updates!

Viva HA, HB, HC Victor Mini are also 4x4"

^ Clint beat me to it. In relation to your shaking steering wheel, I would damn near put money on it those tyres have flat spots from sitting in the same place for too long, unfortunately you can't fix it once it has started. Easiest way to check for you is bolt the wheels off your other Rover, before forking out to have them balanced. They do look quite old too? Nice find on the dizzy, Im surprised the previous owner hadn't tried it himself!

Yea might do , a rather low one at the back of the drawbar..

Nice finds, I personally would be inclined to use a Black Seam sealer for the cracks - and if you want you could use that for edge sealing the wing when you put it on. Have a look at some panel paint supplier stores, I think you can buy rubberized bumper paint?

He's pretty good and upfront. Ive always had good dealings with him!

Scott @ RO jones / Laycocks Collision always treated me well. Good/fair pricing with good workmanship

More I wanted a nice clean look, rather than everyone that has Grey, black trailers. But yes handily matches the car at the moment

Headed back, loaded up the car. Raring to go for opening night tomorrow night!

3 coats later it looked like this; After a full day piecing it back together, and prior James/Horndog kindly lent the services of his works guillotine. I then seam sealed the deck, along with blind stainless rivets both the ramps and deck... (Blaine kindly helped after a day of blasting for him)

Lay the first coat of 2k acrylic white on Friday night..

Got a wof, made sure everything was up to scratch before blasting it.. Blaine from Fast Blast kindly Sandblasted the chassis for me, and then together we Primed the chassis, then called it a night

TBH I've found it a quite common problem Not being funny, but the Yanks sometimes do a Drivers side spring, and passengers spring with slightly different lengths/tensions. I've re-bushed a entire 60's Impala, springs, balljoints and had the exact same problem, made it better than when it came in, but had to put spring packers to level it properly unless you want to pay to have the springs either stretched or compressed to match. The easiest and most reliable way is to Fit a Urethane Spring Packer under whichever side spring to bring it back up. This will most likely be on some ratio as you're on Double a arms - ie 10mm packer might equate to 20mm at the tyre to guard.