Jase

before you get too excited about bike carbs the heads on these 1256's are a bit different, they're siamesed between the pots 1-2,3-4 and run two balance ports as well as being a top entry inlet. manifold would be tricky to make

ok failed to let this go, so started on an alloy solo seat and a mac/alloy side cover, even forked out for a tank repair kit to strip the rust out of the tank and reline it

i agree so far 1256 yes, but ill add sneaky mapsensor efi hidden in the stockcarb/filter housing. just remember to keep your tappets in tolerance and always monitor oil pressure and level, i've done countless whangarei/hamilton missions with them and they perform good enough in a heavy chevette wagon so will be sweet for this.

if i'm not mistaken they still run a borg head so should be 28 spline 4 spider lsd, vn 2 litre have 4.11's vn/vr manual v6 have 3.45's, the 3.45s behind my v6 made a huge difference.

take a video of it running and chuck it on Youtube, surging is normally vacuum leak which you can find by squirting carb cleaner etc around whilst its running, if it ate the points check the dizzy shaft has no play in it, as they tend to shag points caps and rotors real quick once they start walking around

http://www.torqueperformance.co.nz/power-kits/holden/ here's a one stop shop. but based on the fact the memcals need resoldering in tuning maybe a pain if you keep modifying it. possibly a megasquirt would be the go with a netbook or some such small computer to make your changes as you go would work.

run rectangle section heavy wall box like 75x40 or some such size, its unconventioal but it'll give the volume you require before heading to the more room sections of the car

Ok easy way of doing tappets, set to tdc #1 inlet and exhaust are loose, set #2 inlet #3 exhaust and #1 inlet and exhaust. rotate to tdc one rotation #4 inlet and exhaust should be loose, set #2 exhaust #3 inlet and #4 inlet and exhaust. Please add more versions if you have them to cover other configurations.

ok so tappets were getting oh so much louder with daily commuting duties, decided to pull the cover and have a look, pleasantly surprised all valve guide seals were present and accounted for although the tappet clearance was well out on all of them. busted out my gregories/feelers set em checked em and now have a g161 that positively purrs. now where to find a flex plate

wicked mark how do you feel about delivering a bride to a wedding in this next year? libby friggin loves it , she turned down a stock crate on my ute dunno why?

actually a bit would have been done otherwise they wouldn't pass the standards required to get a road use certification. there must be a road use certification standard somewhere on the e-net otherwise ring arrow in auckland as i'm sure he'll have them on file. quality versus legality are two different arguments. hypothetically simons wheels may not be legal as they may be outside the manufacturers specifications for width offset etc for that centre yet the quality may well be higher than the other wheel, from an insurance standpoint if the wheels say 14x9jj and they are actually14x11jj i'm pretty sure they wouldn't pay out if they found out on the base they maybe an uncertified item, the knock off may be poorer quality but still remain completely legal even if it snaps in half after a prang.

i think if Rota were in breach of any copyright laws they would be shut down very quickly, they are a replica with similar appearance to the original. whether or not they are as durable as the original is irrelevant as they have to meet the same standards for purpose. As far as getting worked up about the whole fake/real debate i think anyone that really gets stuck in should go outside and hit one of their rims with a sledgehammer, the cost/trouble/effort of replacing that rim is often thought about when rim choice is made. Buying a $1000 set with ready replacements is just sensible for some people and building your own set as simon has done is just as rewarding although if something happens replacement can be a bit more of an ordeal. As far as getting into the science of it metallugy of the a real/fake wheel has to be different as you're not comparing apples with apples, aluminum has plenty of grades and qualities and price is very indicative of what has been used, similarly it would be like comparing a cast magnesium wheel to a cast alloy wheel. the whole real/fake debate could bash around in circles for years and still divide opinion, buy fit for purpose and weigh up your options. You can make and old banger look good on $400 wide steels or $5000 3 piece rims, the purpose or use of the car should dictate the direction you take.

sounds like you have a fuel supply issue or a vacuum leak. either your pump isn't delivering or your floats are set all wrong or its sucking air. get it idling and spray some engine start around the carb and manifold if it picks up you have a leak.

if you have patience a tig a mill and $50 i have some carbs for you, they're off a v6 220hp johnson i believe as you can see they run a main ali body that would need parting and a central shaft that would need disecting, all six carbs are present oh yeah they be sidedraft though

concur^ get a diameter and pick-a-part a set the same from a car with similar suspension set up, then go home and experiment.

also if it has an adjustable pushrod from the servo to the clutch fork make sure its extended out enough or you'll get the same symptom, if its getting worse points to leak tho.

yeah bro built not bought, use whatevers at hand and retrofit to suit. enviable of the build, got to finish someting myself one day

looks like what spencer used to use, but i'm sure his were throw away back up batteries from work. we run something similar at the factory enquire as to grabbing a couple

ok minor update retorqued rims together to 35 ft/lb ad started mock up on engine blower combo, wil run dual throttle bodies and the trimatic

i can't see it either but i walked outside and pulled the ign relay from the vn and it wouldn't start, plugged it back in and happy no muffler tunes playing around the hood

putting diesel in a petrol now thats a different story wow the smoke is awesome Fw2r_lIRgpY similar don't overfill with oil

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=13455 I've totally missed this thread but wow i'm impressed , Beauty workmanship and fresh thinking on the tried and true drag car theme. Definitely looks tough and wouldn't be surprised if wheelie bars are required.

petrol didn't hurt old mans 3L hiace with over 500k on it, he inadvertantly lent it to some woman and they slammed 5-10litres they claim in it before realising and brimming it with diesel, he also did it himself on two occasions after he just got it, we drained the tank the time i was with him but the 60litres was no good for the mower/water blaster etc so he just slammed 5litres a fill back in till it was gone. Would be mean if the government just said nah fuck it lets practice what we preach and supply some clean green fuel, upscaling emmissions controls just gives car dealers a woody, improving our fuel would be beneficial to everyone

gap your plugs or replace them

if its already lowered , you may need more than just springs and shocks to get you desired height, best research with the search function your exact requirements ie final ride height, and someone will let you know how it is achievable