Jase

also skip straight to 20w50 if its using oil, its a mitsi so it will be, def tensioner though i'm with diddy on skipping the wp replace that when it fails

mates gtxx charade did this , we put it all back to factory and it went way better, he said the map sens was out of range

put a slightly heavier spring behind the pin that rides the copper ring and touch it up with wet an dry

guy down the road has one running a 350chev dyna diff etc on 33's hasn't moved in a few years

you'd do better to just give the original motor a cam and a freshen up unless you want to cert it or pull it back to standard at wof time

just get it re heat treated after you lighten it , especially if it was cast initially, balancing first also. it'll be fine or a custom billet one will cost $500 from steel surgeon etc

clamp, or welded on button head cap screw as a stud

nah flag that daytona is as gay as aids, might go shooting instead

full throttle is licensed aye if its there i'm actually in, race then drink there cheap chop? or just nathan's that ended up in my fridge

i have a cert plate here for ld28 into pajero , possibly easier than dealing with mitsi engine

yeah running the motor itself, see if it chugs out thedipstick hole, which would indicate ringblowby pressurised sump stz

what about spinning the alt up with a rattle gun or drill, my bet is its a cracked steel line where its pressed into the pump housing. also run with dipstick and oil cap off to see if its pressurising the sump

surely that much oil would be easy to see coming out, mount a go pro cam under there an go drive up an down a hill or two

is your paj an 88 or 89 ? if so do they factory have diff lock/centre diff lock? as me an a mate are making a buggy from a five door one less the oil burner (its ld28t)

from what've read the optimal balance can only be obtained when the piston rod combo each way the same, as far as giving them a dab with the drill press or linisher follow this chaps example QLpiF0E0EJU

all right tyre kickers, it's on this weekend

could get it zinc dipped?

haha click the link above couldn't touch a lexus and trans for that price, also too wide for engine bay for a simple conversion

beauty of the pushrod v8's is just about any of them can be made to rev with the right cam and heads, that efi 302 above with a bigger cam , antipump lifters and some heavier valve springs would surely meet your requirements for power in an escort, there was another 289 escort that used to run around in hamilton, again was pretty rapid,it fit well and although would have been nose happy it seemed to handle fair enough(last time i saw it was 8 years ago and went past at full lock tyres ablaze). tunnel mods would probably be required to get a manual in there, but a tricked up auto may just well fit and be as much fun. diffs going to need an upgrade also not to mention brakes, cert process would require a 5 stud swap so perhaps a 9" or hilux diff, with falcon front picks? either way buying a whole v8 coon would give you the bits required, then a trip to the steel surgeon or the like to have bits narrowed and adjusted to suit would see you well on the way.

also a buick v6 fits in a mk2 bay like a dream... probably more power potential than a slug rover especially if you turbo it

no ones done it here, dad had a 289 in a mk1 escort when i was a kid, would trade again was scary fast and tail happy, problem with the rover motor is a the gearbox from the sd1's are crap or expensive, conversions to a toyota box are expensive also, the exhaust ports come out of the heads near horizontal so extractors will be tight. a dohc 32 valve or a efi 302 would be better imo http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 932160.htm like this perhaps, i went down the rover path and turned back, cost a bomb, now its a modern chev i'm building . spend the money to get the right engine first time around haha

yeah, free air delivery is your main concern on single phase, 15-16cfm with a 50-100l tank is pretty good for home mechanics, my old work does a 20cfm 15a single phase with a 100 litre tank but $1800 odd, that'd be boss for running da etc

if an when you remove that starter give it a good work over, as brad said they are simple as and don't even have a throw out solenoid, they flick out with the inertia of it starting and have a spring that pushes the gear back off the ring gear once it's dissengaged. lots of degreaser to clean off the old crud then a spray of chain lube once its done will help

plenty of pumps and tanks about , i've been watching for a 300l tank and 30-50 cfm pump that i'll diesel power

this^ plus timing chain tensioner on a 1256 was so lols, would rattle click etc when cold, machine gun rattle under load but not knock, then knock just off idle pulling away from lights. timing chain on an a15 is probably as simple as it gets, go buy a haynes manual and have a read up, it'll even list the tools you will require, and then it'll direct you step by step through the whole process to replace the parts, also could well be a loose tappet!