l1ttle_d3vil

BK, Noodle Canteen, Pak'nSave carpark etc? Could be keen. I may be able to get access to a small private concrete pad for skids if wanted too. (when I say small, I mean enough room for standstills and not much else)

had a similar issue with the parents STi, my brother spent forever trying to track it even to the point of swapping the entire diff setup from another STi one night, only to take it for a drive and it still clunked. Turns out it was just stones getting into the spring seat and wedging themselves under the spring over time...

Hmm, strange my tyres don't even exist - 225/50/15

Short answer: it isn't legal. Cutting springs in any way shape or form is illegal full stop. Just because some WOF officers don't notice "one or two coils" missing doesn't make it legal to chop a coil off.

could be a dodgy water temp sensor, the green one on the back of the head. unplug it and start it to see if it makes any difference. if it runs even worse with it unplugged, it must still be working. try unplugging the TPS too, if it makes no difference to how it runs it's probably stuffed.

not sure if this would effect the timing, but if when you rev it it runs like crap but eventually revs up etc, check the TPS is set correct. even swap it over incase just to rule it out completely. also it has to have a map sensor fitted, should be a black box with vacuum line and a yellow round 3 pin plug, original plug on the loom should be near the injector plugs. double check these wires are around the right way. did you just wire them up so the wires match their colours between the loom side and dizzy side of the plugs? because these colours definitely vary between models, eg G- signal is red or white, NE signal is red, black or white depending on what model you've got. suss out which pins are the G- / G1 / NE / on the dizzy plug and make sure they go to the appropriate pins on the ecu itself. I had a few problems with mine ages ago when two wires on the dizzy were around the wrong way, pretty much every time it started it would run differently due to the timing being in a different place, and would advance instead of retard etc. BUT i think when i finally got it running right, the wiring colours didn't match up from the loom to the dizzy plug. also make sure the wires on the dizzy plug you reconnected have a good solid connection, if they don't they can cause similar problems to what you're describing. ah so many possibilies!!

i wouldn't... previous owner did that to his calipers before i got the car, luckily they failed while i was doing burnouts... (thats brake fluid leaking down the side)

time for some target cameras?

pull one of the plugs and clamp it onto the block and crank it to see if you've got spark. try some different HT leads. mine did a similar thing ages ago, left it another night and it all came back to normal. never worked out what was wrong.

i wondered that too, but i stopped there. what voltage is there when you're cranking? most ecu's need atleast 5 or 6v to power everything while cranking so if its dropping too low might cause problems. try hook a jump start pack up to make sure you got plenty of power... otherwise must be a faulty earth or sensor if the ecu and loom have been replaced. how do you know there is no injector pulse? did you check it with an LED or you just know the injectors aren't firing because fuel isnt getting in?

i assume you've checked one side of the injector plug has 12v with the ign on? you haven't accidently hooked a power wire up to a wire that loses power when you turn to start? ive seen that done with a fuel pump before

maybe the ecu doesn't realise the engine is turning over now? mine wouldn't fire the injectors / coil a while back because the ecu wasn't receiving signal from the dizzy, was showing engine speed as 0. and check all your earths. fit more for good measure, especially from block to chassis.

ive heard this before too, but also heard the hair dryer can't blow sh*t compared to the factory fan/heater setup in a car. but also heard both of the above on the most knowledgable internet forums, and not tried it for myself...

looking good, current wheels suit it very nicely - good work! wiring didn't give you too many hassles i hope??

pull one of the plugs off any injector and turn the ignition on, see if theres 12v on one of the terminals. if not, thats why it isn't firing. check if there is 12v at the coil and ignitor too, and make sure the coil is clamped to the body properly as they earth through the clamp.

http://www.clampperformance.co.nz/

i got a bit more time now, so just to be more specific, for a 16v bluetop tvis engine/loom this is what you should do. Most required power sources can be connected to the loom at the separate plug pictured above. I haven't got one of these looms in front of me so might not be 100% accurate with colours of wires. Wire colours changed after the bluetop so won't be applicable to later models. Also you'll need fuses on some of this stuff which I haven't mentioned. Lastly, ALWAYS take the cover off your ECU and check which pins are which, to make sure you are altering/using the right wires. These pins possibly differ between fwd and rwd bluetop engines, SO CHECK YO SHIT!! 12v Ign source for Injectors - 'BF' terminal on the ecu, on the 10p plug. This provides power for injectors etc. Think this wire might split off and can be found on the separate plug pictured above. TVIS solenoid - Solenoid has two wires, one goes to ECU to which switches it and is fine as is. The other I think goes to the plug pictured above and should be a black/yellow wire which needs the power. ECU - Needs to come from a relay, and go to the '+B' and '+B1' pins on the ecu on the 14p plug. Coil/ignitor - This wiring varies depending on what model you have, some have a single 4 pin plug, others have a 2 pin plug and 2x 1 pin plugs. Two wires go to the ECU for the engine signals. Third wire is black/yellow which will be the power feed, might be on the same wire as the tvis solenoid? Fourth wire is brown I think which should be an earth. Coil/ignitor must be earthed through its body/bracket too or won't run. 12v Batt source for ECU - Needs to go to 'Batt' pin on ecu, on the 14p plug. For ECU memory. 12v power with key on start ONLY Cold start setup - This is a black wire on the centre of the plug pictured above. Will also be connected to the STA pin on the 10p plug of ECU. Alternator This requires 4 wires to charge. If you have the original 4AGE alternator plug, it goes like this: Thick white wire - 12v Batt feed Black/yellow wire - 12v Ign feed Creamy yellow wire - Warning light feed 4th wire is a 12v Batt feed which is bolted to the post on the side of the alternator. If none of the above means anything to you, put everything down now and send it to someone who knows what they're doing.

do you have all 3 plugs for the ecu too? one of them (the 3rd one) is part of the dash wiring on the vehicle, and often gets missed but you need it for the +b and +b1, and batt terminals. pop the cover off your ecu and you'll be able to suss out which pins are which. the wires to power up tvis (black/yellow), injectors, and STA pin (thick black wire in centre of plug i think) should be found on the plug at the bottom of this pic. can't remember where the coil/ignitor power wire is, probably on this plug too. it'll be the black/yellow wire on the ignitor/coil plug anyway, just can't remember where the other end is!

yeah what model ecu/loom? if its rwd 16v i can tell you exactly what wires you need. if its 16v, you'll need: switched power for injectors, tvis solenoid, coil/ignitor, ecu, alternator batt power for ecu, alternator sta power for cold start setup (just one wire) also coil/ignitor must be earthed through its body/bracket too or won't run. think thats all off the top of my head...

haha, won't be running 12psi until i'm comfortable with the track. never been to the drags before so sorta shitting myself 5psi is making 124kw atw so would be interesting. sorry, I don't condone racing on public roads... ...but since you mention it, do you know of any nice windy roads in the area?

damn 5g is alot, is there even much rust and dents?? putting out pretty damn good power for n/a. will you be taking this to the winter drags?? i'll be keen for a race if you are

front uni snaps it'll dig in and try to flip the car. rear uni snaps it'll create a nice shower of sparks thats all. only time you need two is if you have a two-piece driveshaft.

yes. any number of things can fail on the driveshaft, uni's, shoddy welds etc etc. other than possibly flipping your car, it could also cut your fuel lines if they run next to it and fuel + heat = bad. not unheard of. and as said, im pretty sure it is a requirement for any engine conversion.

are all old radiators copper? got a feeling my old corolla radiator was copper, and i ran that with a 4age in for ages and never had any problems.

yeah ill be around, but after hours would suit better. give me a txt - 027 2808 288 - but don't call because the phones stuffed if you want to bring a box of beer and your loom i'll label everything up that you need to get it running too