tortron

Woodnt think so

morrie is double that and barely moves on all 4!

surprised it drove on 2 cylinders

standard camshaft? my sidevalve morrie does that, its just the lazy cam grind i think

you could french the tube into the tank also

a nicely carved stick would also look good good enough for the aero industry

flat type oil sight glass? a fuel level thermistor (or two) for half tank, 1/4 tank and a couple of LEDs hidden in the speedo

knock the rivets out of the cross brace and move it a few inches forwards so its not in the way?

https://www.trademe.co.nz/building-renovation/tools/hand-tools/other/listing-2558169722.htm?rsqid=069bf2fecc6f488fa12d1a5ec82cdd9b-023 coil winding machine possible barry thread, but someone seems to need one every so often

Probably the corrugations

plastidip the inside of the cap? would insulate it

My Ute has balloon 15s all round. Had a low pro 14 as a spare. Possibly a case of - it's fine as a spare because it ticks the boxes, but if you out it on the truck and have different ply etc on the same axle then it fails

seems reasonable

im pesting elsewhere and am gutted i cannot attend this as well

I've used the spray can black zinc under the tray in a few areas and it's held up well for a few years now. I have a tin of zinc it and a tinbof durepox and they both require the same prep. One day il get that metal spray done to it, but didn't win lotto

But it's zinc Looking closer it says good for 6 years if out in the weather I wouldn't mind recoating every 6 years if I never have to do rust repairs on this again. Maybe I will fill the chassis rails with it Il probably durepox it, by the time I wipe all the bitumin sealer off it will be a nice clean metal surface to start with

Repainting Underside floor and chassis of mitsi Ute. Thinking of brushing a few kgs of zinc (CRC zinc it) on. Or should I just durepox it?

Probs ok with no boost

https://www.classictransmissionsolutions.com/700r4-speedo-electric-to-mechanical-conversion-kit-convert-speedometer/ doesnt help the ppm to ecu problem, but theres other was you could do that, like this https://shop.classicinstruments.com/sn78sm tail housings with both mechanical and electronic speed sensors are available but at about $600 less mucking around to get the dakota unit

Sounds like something a bicycle builder may have

Thought about a UE boom sorta thing velcroed to the parcel tray? then you can also take it with you picnicking

Door fits Opens without hitting anything Closes without hitting anything Is parallel with B pillar Is parallel with sill opening Sits flush everywhere All it took was totally reshaping the guard. Some spots were way out. The rear mounts had been welded on crooked. Added about 5mm in some places and skimmed a mm off in others Need to add a little at the A pillar, and probably add a little to the A pillar bottom edge itself. That lower bend/angle was different on the B pillar,door,and guard. At least it closes now FFS

It's woffed and regod, beats most cars on here

woops