tortron

Where is that? can i live there and tinker with my truck

Paint the engine, clean stuff is so much nicer to work on/see the leaks

The brother came over the other day, and we spent most of it eating cakes and pies, drinking coffee and occasionally rubbing the old lump (in amongst this the engine got cleaned too) Its shiny, so that means its rebuilt right? (acutally before this i decoked the head and will reset the valves once its running. Thats all this old girl wants) Ignore the painted park plugs, they are just there to stop me painting the threads. Might do the head nuts black for a bit of contrast, and go over the alloy bits - timing cover, sump etc again. Clutch is off for replacement, contemplating shaving down the flywheel, but i probably wont. Also rebuilt the front brakes, so all that is done

sandpaper the parts that hold the bulb in then test for power there

1. Switch off ignition 2. Disconnect the battery and turn it round the other way. Cut two 'U' sections from the metal bracket that retain the battery so it has adequate clearance from the terminals. 3. Replace the two terminals on the battery leads (the positive and negative terminals are different sizes). New ones are available from any good car shop. 4. Connect the earth connection to the battery negative terminal. 5. Disconnect both dynamo leads and use a long length of wire to connect the small dynamo terminal to the battery positive for five to ten seconds. This removes any magnetic memory that the dynamo has so it charges the correct way. 6. Re-connect the dynamo. 7. Connect the positive lead to the battery. 8 Swap the 2 small wires on the coil over. These just pull off and slide back on. If in doubt you should end up with the black and white wire connected to the terminal marked - or neg. 9 If the red light on the dash goes out when the engine is running all is well. If not repeat sections five onwards. 10 If you have one of the very early cars with an ammeter you will need to reverse this as well or it will read backwards. Some of the very early cars have heaters that run in reverse as well but only the VERY early cars do this. The windscreen wiper motor also runs the opposite way but this has never proved a problem. (thanks to the mmoc)

The Weedo maker

concur at do it yourself build a winding machine too, they are pretty cool

I have an SU carb book here with measurements of every needle made. Theres one online too if you google it, search SU needle comparison or similar

i dont think POR15 would like that^

Like owning a triumph? I love seeing two cars mashed together. Has to be top quality work however

^ will lose its gloss if left in the sun. wont fall off tho

paintbrush it on both killrust and por15 will self level pretty well - i.e no brush strokes

the black bit behind that thing with the 4 screws on it.

Morris minor gearbox as found in its natural habitat Grease and grime removed. Painted partly in stationary motor grey, and a red which i believe is original (all my other gearboxes have this red) And painted, looks a bit orange on my screen. Red is ok, could have been a bit darker. Will do the engine the same

Roll over bar stat This is so horrible

Sweet, next up is finding bearings to match I saw the other day unfinished pistons with alot of meat on them. Designed for the classic car market i guess. Pick whats closest and throw it on a lathe

head gasket doesnt always go between the water and oil, so could be between cylinders or what ever. Probably want to compression check whip the head off, and possibly get the head resurfaced. Hopefully its not warped or cracked

This was the "clean" side Combination of soaking in degreaser, standing infront of a bench grinder with wire wheel for 2 days, wire brush on a drill, and scraping with a flat edge cleaned them up ok. Drivers side grease had gone rock solid, fortunately it hadn't worn any of the assemblies. Have ordered a new swivel pin as this one was badly pitted (and has been for quite some time it would appear). Parts are cheap so why not, also ordered a bunch of rubber dust seal etc Now looking like this, note the brass trunnions. Went for a basic black and silver, would have been similar from factory (depending on what day of the week it was). Havnt bothered with a full polish on any of the parts, i prefer a clean brushed look over mirror finish. Should look good with the brake banjo connectors on there. Should also handle nicely too. Parts you cant see - fresh grease in everything, fresh oil in the lever arms, torsion bars trimmed to drop the front circa 2 inch

actually, looking at the picture i see the confusion That shaft is supposed to be open like that , is an off centre c shape

Bit hard to see with all the bits in the way, but the pump is still water tight (also it has broken clean off) That part is basicly a bracket which holds the impeller shaft. Inspection shows this unit has been damaged in the past - possibly a contributing factor to that failure (housing has a part broken off) Its noted in the truck history this one had its blades brased up and re ground. Not fantastic work, but it passed , its even signed and dated on the impeller With the unit off, it looks as if i could just tap some holes and bolt it back together with a heavy piece of steel Anyway Made a new gasket Installed good pump Reinstalled engine fan Shes all happy again. Am going to try motorcycle chain lube on the shaft and see how that goes Yes cam, it hurts me deeply to touch the parts pile. I guess im doing pretty well tho, its been a while since she was used daily

Might need to get your shoes shaved to match the drums. Were you using new ones?

Well Tits, not sure what could have caused that Options I have 1 very good spare 1 slighly damaged spare (chipped where i believe it would be a weak point and result in the above) get a shorter fan belt and simply not use a water pump, shes all go for thermosyphon Cast Iron unit, so im wondering who would be brave enough in the Hamilton area to stitch it back together for me

adjust the shoes to be as loose as to fit the drums on, then adjust till you cant spin them, then one click back otherwise try swapping your shoes with the others

Flap disk - 20ish bucks grinder, $30 upwards i guess

$60 for a gallon of premium grade 30wt oil I find my truck leaks less of the penrite than castrol