tortron

Spent the last 3 days under the rear end several stuck bits, soaking & a couple of hammer blows has gotten the driveshaft, diff and suspension out. Will need new front pins for the springs, rear shackle pins, new rubbers everywhere, connecting arm for the armstong shock Will take the diff to washworld tomorrow, steam blast the inch of gunk off it. Wire brush everything paint everything. Diff seals look ok, it never dripped much, cleaning may change that next steps clean up underside rear have done the rust here already, so its just paint and reassemble. My lowering blocks dont fit, they are too big for the titchy diff spring mounts, locating pins are different too and the design of the blocks doesnt permit me modifying them. Will get some made and get new u bolts. Will make new brake lines while im down there. After that, its - pull the sump and switch the flywheels replace all the seals there Remove the remains of the "fixed nuts" for the gearbox crossmember and fit standard nuts and bolts. Bung in gearbox. Clean up and reinstall all under bonnet equipment soundproof rear half of interior fit underlay and carpet retrim interior panels finish my custom instrument gauge get a new exhaust system made once im all back together and running, i will gather up all the bits required to fit the water pump. Fit tiny amp, hidden speakers and mp3 input and hopefully get some miles in

Perhaps ask a place that does the "plastic" chroming. I.e. The ones that spray goop over whatecer you want, then apply chrome. Pretty sure a place in hamilton does it

Moving before july, have a lovely sized workshop. Morrie, parts, and tools will all be coming with me (as well as truck and parts) Awes. Get it finished this year ya reckon?

Kingpins were replaced have been painting and tinkering where possible. No real issues other than not being driven enough

I have used both the clamps and self tappers both work swell and no wof issues

Amr300/500's came off little twin charged suzukis will spin either way happy enough run a lttle moreys in your fuel for lubrication if you are that way inclined, should keep the valves cool anyway. They normally have a black plastic box dealie to release pressure. Im forgetting the name, like a blowoff valve but not There is a guy in aussie pumping out problemsolver parts for them. Mainly datsun 1200 related. Pulleys and the like

i made one out of a pop rivit gun, incase you are feeling handy

would some copper brake rivets interest you?

Air cooled engines run hot. So pretty quickly at idle. I would expect to see life after 15 min slow running

blue car/roof and a red swage line

ensure tappet clearances are set correctly live with it

that stuff will dissolve all the gunk thats stopping your engine from leaking

Wof today Left and right KingPins worn (these must have bugger all miles on them as the previous owner replaced them). Front right tie rod worn Steering this thing is fairly vauge, so il accept that is probably looking for an overhaul already sourced the required parts - $120 a side plus $40 for the tie rod Will go ahead and order them, its cheap enough and chances are it was flogged out on the farm before i got it

woman at work + her partner were in the Trabant club and had restored a few (Hungary i Believe) surely you would be poking your finger through the panels from new?

The metal part is hollow, and will be cross drilled about half an inch up the stem (you will probably be able to see a small circle thats a slightly different colour) apply heat to all of that,and give the cable a pull, doesnt take too much to melt the solder. keep it hot and insert your new bicyle cable, the old solder will probably lock this in place well enough

you can replace the choke cable and keep the original knob I used a butane pen torch/gas soldering iron to melt out the original solder, then used a new bicycle brake cable. Then you just solder the new one in Magic

what kind of industrial stationary motor grey did you paint those engine parts with? Also (although it involves less creativity) did you consider tapping some bolt holes and running different points?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/other/auction-487272933.htm you want soemthing like this perhaps or - tap a suitable place in the head or - braze on a fitting to your toptank

does it have a male or a female thread? you can get adapters that you splice into the radiator lines My morrie has an undrilled/tapped boss in the head

apparently the correct term is "ground loading trailer"

decks pretty high everyone was expecting me to load it on when i moved in january (place was set up where i could have driven it off a retaining wall directly onto the tray) considered building some ramps on rollers under the deck actually, but it would be some pretty rough angles to work with/bendy ramps edit* these would work http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/earthmoving-machinery/other/auction-487329248.htm

have considered this it will, if i have a way of putting it on

Did some work today Sorted out loose ignition wire behind the dash Replaced float needle valve with a spare filled in, and retapped the airfilter mount ontop of the carb (had stripped) Attached my cab throttle control - possibly i want to replace the wire, its got a few kinks and so it stretches rather than adjusts fully And finally, punched a few more holes in a belt, and replaced the webbing strap i had holding in my battery as you can see, my battery tray is massive. Im considering connecting a second battery, just because i have room, and a spare

drill a hole in the side of the sump fill up with oil till it overflows - just like a scooter gearbox

I want to drive my tuck in the snow, i bet it would handle amazingly