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Nominal

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Everything posted by Nominal

  1. This is what I use for that sort of thing https://www.wyatt.co.nz/shop/Repair/Adhesives++Sealers/Pro+Form+Dum+Dum+Strip+Caulk.html
  2. I think an old car friendly WOF place that had seen the car before would accept an 'aftermarket replacement' arm that was functionally the same.
  3. Maybe they jack up the rear of the vehicle?
  4. Not for mine, but mine were already aftermarket ones, not factory originals.
  5. They generally say 'do not open' on them. It's not something I'd try to fix. I had a retractor fail just recently, ended up buying a new pair for the front seats - wasn't too bad on price considering they had coloured belts, about $350 for the pair, from Seatbelt Sales
  6. Good news. Sounds like the new WOF shop is happy to look at an older vehicle and not judge a book by it's cover. It's nice to get something back on the road, I managed it with the Morris Oxford Traveller and it was quite satisfying.
  7. Best next step would be to weld two more cylinders on and fit a V8 crank.
  8. Stock FC would be boosted right? You'll need a smaller M/C bore, or different pedal ratio, or maybe both to make them work unboosted, even then I dunno if you'll get there.
  9. How good does the paint need to be on something that will get crashed into the nearest tree/fence/hedge in the first 47 minutes of use?
  10. I presume you saw the bulldozer option ?
  11. Been down to Bulls for a thing, good trip mostly. The new Ripco spark plug lead didn't last long with a misfire after stopping at Taupo, so spent some time at Pro Parts getting one with a right-angled connector made up. That should be a permanent fix. Only real problem as just on leaving Bulls heading back north. That nice black Chevette that was posted in the Spotted thread was up ahead, so I accelerated out of the 50km/h area only to experience a sudden loss of power and a floppy gas pedal. So pulled over to the side and checked the pedal end. All good there so had a look under the bonnet. Turns out the crimped on end had decided it didn't want to be attached any longer. Luckily I had some basic tools with me, and there was enough length available to get it back in action by poking some strands through the mounting hole and tightening the bolt back up. I left one of the return springs off to reduce the load. Looked at a few options for a permanent repair, there are some aftermarket cables available with a nice pivoting end, but they are $$. I've ordered a knockoff from Ali, but in the meantime I drilled a 6mm bolt and welded that to the head of the other bolt like so I had to trim the rough end of the cable a bit to get it threaded through the hole, so adjustment is a bit short, but I expect this will be a medium to long term fix.
  12. Been honing your skills eh?
  13. A replica maybe? Body looks to be fibreglass.
  14. 65 Bucket seats...
  15. Lol I assume you have looked through @ProZac's thread.
  16. Excellent, that was pretty quick shipping. Hopefully the legal side is easy - in my experience 20+ years ago it was a piece of piss. Also
  17. Worth getting for the hoard I reckon.
  18. Shrinker/stretcher, I got a lot more use out of that.
  19. Pity they 'upgraded' Minor diff which has separate hubs and bearings from the axles
  20. The hand snips I use most often are the offset ones like this, way better than the straight style ones. These work well even though they are old and a bit shaggy. For cutting steel out of larger sheets this tool is great, I have a powered nibbler/punch thing too but never use it now as it makes such a mess with all the little punchings. These are good too I think, but I don't one. HS2S Throatless Hand Lever Shear - Machineryhouse
  21. Heh, I made an axle puller from some random bits of steel plate, bar and pipe, alter upgraded with a sledgehammer head with a broken handle. Worked fine. I finally bought a proper one from a bnt sale but have hardly used it. (2002 called and wants its lofi camera back)
  22. There are ways to tinker with the settings, but I haven't done it, just turn the knob right down for sheetmetal works for me. https://images.tgaabrasives.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/20200916150005/User-Guide-BOC181MIG.pdf
  23. I haven't used it much recently, but I don't recall any issues. A bit like you I had an old one but got a bit annoyed with it's behaviour so I donated it to SeedyAl and got this one.
  24. A+ on British, Australian, and American rust.
  25. Pretty happy with this one from boc, just one knob. https://www.boc.co.nz/shop/en/nz/boc-smootharc-181-mig-welder-boc181mig-p
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