Nominal

I dicked around with the starter for a bit - it's called a rat-trap style with a mechanical linkage to push the pinion into engagement with the ring gear. It's pretty new actually, to go with the C4 I guess. \ Started up OK after that Since they are both in the same part of the garage I ran both Mercury V8's together. Both pretty dirty looking though.

I took the radiator out of the project for an inspection. It looked OK to me but the radiator man told me it needed recoring and would be $$$ to do so. Dropped it off before the November Beach Hop and picked it up on the return. I knocked up a wooden frame on casters and mounted the engine and radiator up.

Bit of catching up to do... Bit of a road trip back in September to pick up a running 49 Mercury flathead. The Mercury engine is 255 cubes (stroked crank) and 110hp compared to the lowly Ford at 239 cubes and 100hp. It is stock as far as I know, except for the triple 94's on an Edelbrock manifold with dodgy air filters. It came from a 49 Mercury where the owner had already had a newly rebuilt C4 auto adapted (in NZ) and converted to 12V but was being pulled to be replaced by a Windsor 302 (or similar)

Spy shot

Where can I get a decent set of jumper leads? Ones with actual bolted on clamps, not shitty pressed/crimped supercheat style.

Are you implying I have rusty cars? I dunno. I like this welder better than my old clunker one, but it burns through thin rusty panel steel pretty well even on the lowest setting. Good gap filler though.

I was nosy? Blew some compressed air through it as part of checking the wire feed. Turned out that the tension on the wire roll that stops it unravelling was too tight which was causing the wire feed error. Working fine now.

Took a potato pic of the insides of my BOC 181. Looks well built. Bit surprised that the welding current is provided directly from the PCB but that's the way it goes.

Great write up KWS, always enjoy reading your posts. On Thames plant, it started with Peugeot's and included Ramblers, Hino, Isuzu, and Renault as well as Toyotas. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_industry_in_New_Zealand#1964_Campbell_Motor_Industries

Will do

Not much it seems? How about this place over your way? https://brewdstokesvalley.co.nz/ Might be @bmxnz11's local.

^^ Only two??

Good run eh. I don't think it's that surprising though. If a car is in OK shape then there's no real reason for them to conk out on long trips. Just keep an eye on the oil and coolant. I seldom take tools along these days, just cross fingers and go.

I doubt that it will be that fussy to spray. I mix it up and brush it on. I did have a hassle with the hardener going hard on it's own due to not sealing it up properly though. Make sure you have a good mask for spraying paint.

The bolt through the pillar is fairly common for the era. Shouldn't be a problem on a vehicle that is otherwise stock.

Could always do a @kyteler and keep it as artwork. Wouldn't take up much space.

Tanks can't be electroplated inside very easily as the process doesn't really work without a direct flow between the anode (which would have to be inside the tank) and cathode (the tank itself). When I let my fabricated tank get rusty I had to cut the top off again to get it plated and even then the coverage wasn't great inside the tank (inside corners didn't get much zinc).

Surely only a Z foamer would notice that. That Oxford wagon had was tagges as a saloon in the NZTA system and that was never an issue for WOF's.

Nice going eh. I suppose the one that was at Marshlands is long gone.

Thought of you when I watched this the other day.

Any mechanic worth paying should be able to sort it out in less than an hour.

Did the mechanic do a compression test?

I don't really get the point in bolting in something like that. You have to cut the chassis apart anyway, so it can hardly be put back to stock.