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Cant say id think welding to a crank would be a good idea, id imagine it would quite possibly fuck with the hardening, Imo i think that pictured crank has "inserts" fitted, then redrilled

Pretty sure the lower bag mounts i had cut were 6mm, maybe 8, Nope the lowers dont need xray, upper arms do when they are pie cut and hacked up and welded Neither do shock mounts Doesnt need to be welded by certified welder, just competent Will require lvv cert

Could use devcon, Or use frost plugs

Give the guys at fenix radiators a call, they are based in auckland and do some pretty sharp deals

Is your current diff ok apart from the oil leak? Axle seals are cheap and relatively easy

My money is on the thermostat

Endeavour engineering in mount maunganui do them, amd will custom make for anything, not cheap thou Other option is like Rookie said, saeco do sleeves, machine the stock pulleys and shrink a sleeve over, grub screw to lock in place if your worried about just relying on the interference fit, I have a set from endeavour and they are lush, next set for a supercharged 1uz will just be sleeved stock pulleys so i can retain the harmonic balancer

Chase are good but dont do aluminium, Tube bending actually works out cheaper for bends, but its either bank deposit or cash, no eftpos or credit card facility Tried auto bend for a couple of bends and a donut and i nearly shit myself, they were over twice the price

Tube bending, they are in auckland thou

Razor blades are used on glass headlights, steel wool scratches shit, i just caught my mrs cleaning one of the house windows with steel wool, dried it off and showed her the scoured glass.. her reply oooh Id be very careful about thinners on the tail lights, generally melts if left on more than a few seconds, id try a small area first.

Uj's with differnt leg lengths are a bit more specialised than repco The likes of beattys or adl would have been the go

Personally i just trim them down, its just over 1mm from memory The earth pin doesnt carry any of the current, just make sure the outlet you are using is upto it, and not t'd into the lighting circuit. Years ago we tested my 180amp ac/dc with a clamp meter, it draws about 13amps full noise, it is an inverter type thou, From wikipedia The Earth Wire This wire is there to protect you. Many appliances have metal cases e.g. kettles, toasters, dishwashers and washing machines. If the live wire becomes loose inside the appliance and it then touches the case, then the whole case becomes live. If you were then to touch it, a current would flow through you to the earth. The earth wire is just a wire connected to the case of the appliance. It goes down the flex into the socket. Inside the wiring of your house it travels down to the earth through the earthing system (not necessarily plumbing). If the live wire were to touch the case a huge current would flow through the earth wire. This would probably blow the fuse and break the circuit (see next section) but even if the fuse doesn't blow the current would still prefer to flow through a wire with low resistance than a high resistance human body. So basically the earth wire prevents you from touching the case of a potentially faulty appliance. The earth wire is set up so it touches the case of an appliance. This means that if a wire comes loose and happens to touch the case, the earth wire redirects the current from the case of the appliance, through itself and down to the earth. This lay out is designed so that if the earth wire has to do its job, the huge current will blow the fuse and cut off the circuit. This way if you touch a faulty appliance, you don't get electrocuted! The earth pin on a plug is longer than the live and neutral pins. This ensures that the earth pin always connects with the socket first.

With ac tig on alloy with positive handpiece the tungsten should ball on the end, i grind mine to a dull point so they ball easier, Xcel arc do some sweet tig gloves, about $15 a pair, they have a poo yellow / brown cuff, and cream leather glove I mported a bunch of tig fingers, they are a kevlar sleeve that you put over the finger that is closest to the torch or the one you use to stead your hand with, some guys just use one of these and no gloves (fuck that) $15+ freight I was recently given a leather apron, wasnt to keen to start with then i actually used it,, its fuckng sweet, stops the shirt or pants catching fire when grinding and excellent at stopping the stray rods buring me when i raise my helmet, without being cunty and hot like overalls A watercooler is a huge improvement, ability to drop to a smaller lighter torch with out it melting and getting hot. I use to destroy wp26 torches, they would just get to hot, and come away from the body, split the rubber boot and then leak argon. I made my own cooler, found a small commercial a/c condensor about 250x300, made a 15litre holding tank, and rangi'd my 5amp arlec battery charger to run a caravan water pump, on the lowest output it can, plan is to get a tiny 240v electric pump but this hasbeen going strong for about 3 years now.

Tube bending in east tamaki for the bends, Use a crox tool or swage to roll a bead on the end of the pipe, never over tighten T bolt clamps they distort the alloy, With a good rolled bead on the end of the pipe normal hose clamps work perfectly fine I always try to weld all but 1 join each side, less silicon means less leaks, less potiential hoses to blow off, to split etc, having a join means the pipe work will come apart and make installation easier. Some customers dont want any joins, and can be a nightmare to get it in and out, Alloy is the best to dissipate heat, it doesnt take much external air flow to cool alloy pipe Stainless heat soaks and takes ages to cool down, 3" is huge, i only use 3" on 2jz's, big 13b turbos etc, 2.5 on the majority of stuff is ok, did have a customer mention it resulted in slower boost response with 2.5" piping on an evo 3, 21/4 bit of an awkard size to buy in alloy 2" often only used from to match turbo outlet thru to intercooler Jamex in penrose have a good range of bends, as do scarles, and dsr, Alert motorsport do samco, but very expensive compared to the generic stuff, the quality of samco is definately a lot better thou

Yea atom are good and have all sorts of wierd and oddball shit, but not eftpos, not sure if they have credit card facilities on line,

Oil condition will give you an idea if the box is tired, if its got atf in it, make sure its nice and red, if its brown and burnt smelling then be worried, Your problem sounds like a speed sensor,

Run unrestricted oil from remote filter or from the main oil gallery to feed the turbo, From turbo drain straight back to sump, drain must always be downwards, Oil cooler is a different circuit,

Just machine the lip off, Ive built them up with tig welding and had them machined but they work fine without the lip

Did this a few years ago for a 2jzgte, Used silver top itbs, i had a mounting plate cut that had the same port spacings as were i cut the 2jz manifold, Top left of pic is vacuum collector, we ran the fittings from the bottom of the inlet and vacuum hose to link it up, Biggest Issue was that the itbs sat closer together, we couldnt run the return springs or linkages on 2 pairs, we had new throttle shafts made to group them in pairs, expensive exercise, The first shafts bent and the second set cost $$$$ If i was to do it again id keep the itbs spaced and make complete adaptor to suit, Have also heard of guys using rb26 itbs

White smoke while cranking and briefly when it starts? Chuck a multimeter or test light on glow wire/link and make sure there is power there while the glow light is illuminated, that will rule out glow relay, timer etc. Pull the glow plugs out id ( they just unscrew ) no sealant needed when refitting them, Can easily power them up, the tip should glow red hot within 2 seconds If they take longer or dont glow red replace them, best to replace all of them at same time

Verify oil pressure with an accurate mechanical guage. If the light is on sender is fcked or there is no pressure there, no pressure = bad shit i grab a decent diesel oil 15w40 and new filter, run for a couple of weeks to clean the gunge out Diesel oils have detergents in them to control carbon, soot etc, they do a good job at cleaning the shit out with out harming the engine.

best bet is to always use individual vacuum feeds, a few jobs ive done i have changed from multi t's to individual, things like the bov tend to work a lot better, -map signal to ecu is critical -wastegate - well you want to control your boost correctly and effectivly if it is sharing a feed the operation can be inconsistant -fpr - also critical especially since alot of turbo factory fpr's are rising rate, meaning for each psi of boost, your base fuel pressure will be raised ie on a 1:1 type, 38psi base fuel + 12 psi of boost fuel pressure is raised to 50psi under boost -bov, well this works by using a vaccum when the throttle body snaps shut to open the piston and release, if the feed is shared it wont work effectivly just my 2 cents

yup true, although, i prefer the t4 exhaust housing and ht18 turbo, boost at around 3300rpm. rwd 4ag bits seem hard and expensive to find. just as easy to cut and shut, and mod the fwd bits to suit. use standard crossmember and mounts, just make new mounts for engine. i would recommend going link. have had far to many hassles with modifed factory looms and ecus lately they go damn well,