drftnmaz

cool, i got a evo8 HRA turbo here and the compressor cover measures up 57 like the 9 above but has the smaller 9.8 ex, but also have a evo5 with the 10.5 i could use the rear off... might have to start saving!!

i'm not a fan of BB turbos for track cars, plain bearings seem to take alot more abuse, was going to change my t28 to a tdo5hr-10.5, but really want more power than that, was thinking just a 20g wheel would be sweet but $900 seems pretty good for a tdo6 swap, will it go into the earlier 4-8 housing also?

hey mjrstar, what did your TD06SL2R-20G upgrade cost you?

tdo5hr is a sweet turbo, have seen these pushed to about ~240kw on a motor with big cams... but its a twin-scroll so you will need a new manifold to suit, although the early tdo5h from evo0-3 is single entry but not quite as good a turbo

yea 175-60's up front would be mint... and fairly common, mazda 121 etc

most rwd cars run this setup from the factory, here is a toyota hub but should give you the right idea, uses 4 bolts to attach the disc behind the hub before you put it on the stub axel... usally you use a disc with less offset like a peugeot to make the caliper easier to fab, but if your going for clearance then you may have to hunt for the right disc... but yea, more track is always a good thing, roll the guards proper and add some camber, also a good idea to add the same amount of extra track to rear to keep the proper balance of the car, different offsets could already be doing this?

i've talked to a few tuners(with dyno's) about cheap chinese turbos, and they say they mostly work fine, but the wheels are poor copies of old designs, ie the big ones are truck spec from the 70's which work fine but aren't the best if you chasing a good dyno plot i got a mate with a ht18 in a t3 skyline housing for sale, think he wanted $250, was on a 4age, good upto ~200kw i thought the ht18 had a smaller front end than the rb25det t3 tho??????? what about the tune? should at least slam a wideband on there to check its still safe with a different turbo

do that /\

have you thought about making the brake disc attach to the rear of the hub then sitting your calipers back, would give you like 30mm more clearance?

if you put a rubber hose there it will collapse under vacuum cause its a suck-tho setup, so has high vacuum between the throttle and the inlet, it will expand again under boost but looks dodgy when you open the hood and see a hose all sucked in... it never stopped mine from working but i changed as soon as i saw it much better to make a metal pipe from offcuts and use a small piece of straight hose on each end. and yea truck/tractor rad hose is normally available in some pretty tough black stuff that looks like proper intercooler stuff

yea, i just meant to point out that you can use hydro lifters with bigger cams... you don't have to go solid, but need springs sounds like a sweet cheap upgrade, up the springs and try

heh that seems like alot, but you run slicks so i guess you can use it, i only run 3.6 camber and 4.1 caster, used to run 5.5 caster and found i like it better with less, sorta smoother and playing with rear sway bar for turn-in, from the pics it looks like your not afraid to make the car point where it needs to go

i've heard the ramp rates are different and can do weird things like throw the valve open you can get 260 degree cams for hydro lifters but you do have to upgrade the springs to suit (i've got some jun ones for my s13 motor) but these prob have more lift also

looking mean! what alignment specs you running? pinion angle changes grip quite abit aye...

hmmmm... i didn't relise you were gonna run suck through carby, idlealy you want the intake track to always be running downhill, it reduces the fuel pooling in the piping/turbo, i've only done a couple of suck-through setup's tho so i'm guessing that factory manifold puts the turbo right up where the booster is? i'm thinking it would be easier and look/work better if you fitted a reverse mount brake master cyclinder, or remote one?

cutting will also change your pre-load, same way the adjustable bolt does on the end, so giving you some adjustment/reduction, but will make spring slightly firmer so if you are running a undersized gate (inside diameter) you could run into issues with it not being able to open all the way??? i've got a old Rajay 2 bolt factory euro one here with adjustable pre-load on top, i've never used it so don't know the boost setting but was off a SABB 900 which i remember mentioned something abut low-flow so should be low boost? no flanges tho, pm me a offer if you want

very nice!

first off make sure you use thick walled pipe to build manifold 3-5mm thick, and make sure you run a brace going down to the block somewhere flanges just draw your own and go find a local engineer with a plasma profile cutting machine, offer beer and wait a week or two (i would normally use 12mm thick to stop warping) wastegates, personally i hate the two-bolt ones, have always given me hassels with blowing gaskets out at the track, not so bad for general road use, can get 4 bolt which are better but i would only fit a V band now, but there pretty pricy http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 963728.htm lots of the older factory gates have a nut/bolt on top to adjust the pressure, but you can always trim the spring to lower the pressure as most come with at least 7psi springs

dope ute man!!! i love it, good inspiration to do some work on mine... dropped flat deck is soo tasty

yea alloy is quite porus and absorbs the oil, can soak in degreaser and then try and bake it out in the oven, but usually don't get it all out, but if you have a nice BIG ac tig then you can sorta use the heat to burn/purge it out of the area your about to weld i used to get the welder at work to do all sorts of weird stuff like sumps and i tried everything to pre-clean the bits for him, end of the day he'd just spend twice as long welding it with more heat on the first run chuck up pics/measurements of rack, and lower arm (pivot-to-pivot) length, i can measure up a few i got lying around...

i'd say look at a different rack with lower profile or offset gear... how far off lining up with the factory steering shaft is it going to be when moved 2" over? it will give you more lock on one side to other but if you have lock stoppers on the hubs you can check if its hits so its not a safety issue

you really need to test the travel of your shocks before you adjust your bumpstops, so take the springs and bumpstops out and let it down onto some blocks/ramps and measure where it bottoms out, then work backwards to figure new bumpstop height... that front one, just saw it off then use flapper disc on a grinder to reshape like new

pay to get the eye's inverted???

love it! mean 2dr wagon, can't wait to see the end result... what turbo you gonna run?

you might be able to get the eyes reversed, that way you don't loose any arch in the spring and usually drops it about 60mm