RUNAMUCK

Aliexpress has a cornucopia of AN goodness on offer. I can't tell the difference between my aerofast parts, and the Aliexpress ones. (Stand by for a me crying post when I install them, and they leak like a bullet riddled seive)

There will be an entourage leaving my house on the day, and heading to Ivan Miller's house. (He gets a healthy muster) from where we'll ride to PMH for the main meet up. You're more than welcome to tag along with us. /or not. Entirely up to you.

The way cars like this were built, they probably blew it on straight over the top of flash rust on the panel steel too.

Most likely, yes.

Yes. It will absorb the abrasion of the blasting media. When I had a new front welded on my ute, the blaster wouldn't touch it until it had had the sealer removed.

Push come shove, Since you don't have any time pressure, Park it in the naughty corner untill you can muster the fucks to tackle it.

Probably because it looks so hangi. If you do get it sandblasted, remove the body sealer first. The nature of old school body sealer, it really absorbs/dampens the abrasividisity of the blasting media. My sandblasting guy tells people to remove it first, or else he'll be there all day. Put the fucker up on body stands. Put on a pair of overalls, a backwards baseball cap, glasses and a p2 mask. Roll under there on a creeper, and nail it with a wire brush twisted knot cut wheel in a 125mm grinder. Shit will go everywhere. (Hence why you want to wear reasonable PPE) once the bituminous sealer gets old (as I presume yours is) it eventually goes hard. So the cup wheel will scrub it off with the utmost malice. Pus some beers in the fridge for when your done. In fact you'll need a shower beer, because the uncovered part of your face will resemble a Victorian era coal miner......

With a 4 speed auto (with overdrive) they love a 4.1:1 rear end. The old boy put a Toyota MS65 crown diff in the back of his XD ute. (We still have one in stock ackshully) I think you under estimate how easily you could supercharge one. Plus because it will run full boost 24/7 (Because no throttle body) there will be no black smoke at any time. (Unlike turbo ones, which chooch all of the soot until the turbo spools up) Like I say, a bit of Indoctrination from me, and I'm sure you'll come around to my way of thinking!

Since you're a boost fiend at heart, I should bring over some drinks some time after the engine is in the car, and brainwash you as to why this vehicle absolutely needs an Eaton M90. Also how eye wateringly easy one would be to fit........ Beddies do nothing for me tbh. (British cars in general) but an LD28s plus boost are a match made in heaven.

The "best name" in electroplating for car stuff in NZ seems to be Shiney bits in Geraldine. When @datto_610 worked at Christchurch metal refinishers, (Oh how i miss him working there! But im quite sure he doesent) he otfen saw parts coming in to be plated which had been polished. He said of all of them Gary from Able metal polishers stuff was the very best. (The man with a black face, because polishing is such dirty work) I'd always planned to use him to have my tridens shined up. But a good few years back, I'd heard he'd left Christchurch, to go work at Shiney Bits. Yes there's quite some skill to high quality electroplating. But like spray painting an ultra high gloss metallic colour onto a car body, the end result is only as good as the prep work. A good few years back Dad sent a huge box of jewelry off his yank mopars down there to get done. Some of it was irreplaceable. And was badly corroded pot metal/die cast. They filled all the pits, and really did make a silk perse from a sows ear. (At a co$t!) I'd give them a call if I were you.

I've seen it done to change the pcd from early to late valiant. Is it legal? The owner doesn't care.

Make trebuchet great again!

Bit late to the party, but get this shared on classic cars and wrecks of new zealand. That page has had great success in the past

A solenoid valve on the discharge side will put a stop to that.

I did a bunch of reading on the subject some time ago. The "cooling mist" pumps seemed to be the best. I belive they sell kits too? I also used to have a bookmark saved with a formula for how much water to add for x amount of HP. (I could probably find the page again with some good googling) His videos are really hard to watch, but David Vizard reckoned you can reduce the fuel buy the same volume as the amount of water you add, as the volume adds to the thermal expansion post combustion.

I've never had headers coated, but HPC did some pistons for me once. They were fucking brilliant to deal with. Elite powder coatings in CHCH do header coatings too. They do a shiney chrome looking one, and a black one that can withstand higher Temps.

I think I saw you driving this through the Anzac drive round about a week or three back. Be sure to decrease the inside of the Intercooler if it needs it. I've read that a super oily Intercooler doesn't transfer heat as well as a not oily one. (Not trying to tell you how to suck eggs)

That one apparently has no plates or tags. I know two people who have inspect it. It's not badly priced either. 620 are "the last of the affordable datsuns". (Because they're all completely rust fucked)

Fingers crossed its 100% dust, draft, noise, and fume free.

Because you can get brand new parts for "drift chassis" nissans really easy, I opted to use silvia gearshift grommets etc. However the removable panel on the floor didn't have a big enough footprint to bolt the hold down plate to. I sourced some 3mm plate off a mate, and made a rough (emphasis on ROUGH here) facsimile of the hold down plate to weld to the cover plate. It's good from afar. But up close far from good. The knee-sans use bolts into captive nuts to hold the plate down. I would have used rivnuts, but again the floor cover didn't suit that. So I grabbed some m6 threaded rod, and fizzed the zinc off with some pretty nasty acid. Then being 3mm, I tapped the holes M6, and would them most of the way in. The hardest part was making the big holes. My only holesaws are ones that @peteretep left at my house. They're fine for wet cardboard. But they really baulk at steel. Buy the time I'd bashed my way through the 1mm floor cover plate, the saw was almost done. (It may have also been the one Peter and I munched a hole in the floor of his transit camper with) after bashing away untill the saw just made smoke and noise. Then I finished the hole by drilling eleventy billion holes around the outside and making the hole round with a carbide burr. A mate then tig'd the two pieces together, and welded the back of the studs I gave it a splash of black zinc, and slapped her together. Mr datsun used self tappers to hold the floor plate on. I elected to use rivnuts with caps crews. Pics for Fred.

Yesterday I filled the gearbox with oil, and installed the shifter. It didn't work out the first time, so I threw out an SOS to @DJZ to find out wtf I was doing wrong. all sorted now.

Don't you have crackheads washing windows at the lights up there?

A mate has an aussie import Skizza that (among a raft of other expensive and difficult fixes) failed compliance for have an aussie cert tag, rather than an NZ one.

@johnny.race is a diff guru no?

All I'm hearing is, ITALIAN TUNE!