RUNAMUCK

^sage advise. A modern engine (efi) will give excellent fuel economy, and cold starting reliablity. However this adds an additional element of complexity as the fuel system requires extra upgrading too. If youre going to pay for cert, will the improvement gained warrant the extra cost?

I went to mums earlier, and had to see this poor old thing in the flesh again. thought id use this thread as a place to write my do do list of things that need doing. Three and a bit years, and ill be 50. Be nice to have it on the road before then. Cooling system flush. Despite the engine being rebuilt, some IHC left it sitting for ages with no corrosion inhibitor in it. Im going to refit the old radiator, pull the thermostat and flush everything with an as yet unknown agent. (Feel free to share your remedy of choice) I sure as hell dont want to be putting any of that crud in my flash new rad. Power steering box. Long ago, the box was rekitted, and modified to "firm feel" specs. (Basically US police care spec) Because valuent power steer is impossibly light. However something was put together wrong. And once i fitted the power steering pump, and had new hoses made, the wheel just cranked all the way to right, the instant the engine was started. Ive previously tried to adjust the valve (theres a sliding valve body used to find the centre of the two valve biases) but even at full travel this doesnt correct it. So the box needs to be removed, and sent back to dads for remedial surgery. Exhaust needs finishing. The pipes presently end at the diff. (Twin 2.5" pipes) the bloke who did the exhaust on my 620 ute (no thread for that sorry) recently build a whole new 2.5" Mandrel bend system for Dads SBM stroker hardtop. So in the interest of saving time, i swooped, and called dibbs on his old diff hoop pipes. Valiants are eye wateringly tight through here. (Even more so once the mandatory height reduction has been carried out) so these will be resused. (As its not an all out performance engine, being press bend rather than manrel wont matter a pinch of shit) my mate who did dads new pipes actually commented kudos to whoever bent that pipe, because its such a small place to fit through. Ill have to make a final determination after the pipes are finished, but i absolutely hate the way the mufflers sound. Theyre hedman turbo flow ones. Theres a high probability that these will be replaced with straight through ones. Trans cooler. I need to have a new treans cooletrmade to match with my new radiator. The bloke who made that said its no trouble at all to whip one up. Body work, In finding this thread, i had to look at all the rust repairs Josh did all over again. Fuck it was rusty bitch. Josh did an amazing job. When he finally told me to come take my car away, the only thing left is the bonnet, and the inside of the front guards. Ive got another bonnet which is repairable. I can buy new bottoms, but the rest will have to be crafted from scratch. So theres an update that isnt really an update. But i have this list to remind me.

Does that go for all drop spindles/all makes of car?

Perhaps plan out any consumables needed (besides beer and snags) ahead of time too.

Defo make a list.

Hows the serenity!

Please get dodge stealth badges for max lol factor

Im a solid maybe. Working on a car with a bunch of guys/few beers is incredibly cathartic. Plus this is very close to me. So id be a totalPOS if i didnt.

What it yours doing sam?

Zinc blends are used because its more free flowing when casting. Ie, you can cast in more detail, and save on maching costs. The more garbage metal in the pot, the more free flowing it is. (Like carburetors for instance)

Righto! I'm registered. There is limited proper acomadation in some stops this year. (There's a festival of some kind in Waikaia on saturday, so I'm staying At the riversdale hotel instead. (Could be improved food options at waikaia with food trucks for the festival? ) riversdale is 18 minutes from Waikaia Tenting is always an option for the hardy souls. Please get registered asap so we have an idea how many riders we're catering for. This is a massive undertaking. And to quote @TimShadboltfan27, I am absolutely pissing cheese for this ride!

Wasnt it an AI that wanted to nuke the russians? And right before the missles launched they asked it to play noughts and crosses with just one player. where it learned that nobody would win, and it aborted the missle launch? I feel like it's name was Jacob?

I got a chy-nah knock off wheel (at the same time as that horriffic boss kit) and the quality is amazing. (Knock off OMP) its remarkably sturdy.

Thanks Terry! I was too lazy to go back and try find it.

Id go HKB all day. I no longer have the photos, but i got one off aliexpress for SFA, and it was so absolutely atrocious i refused to use it. It was so bad i donated it to LVVTA as an example of whats out there. ( @KKtrips may still have it?) It was the stuff of nightmares. Because once bolted on, nobody wohld be able to see how terrible it was. And its a critical safety part. If it fails, youre gonna crash.

Bert at repco richmond is a menace for finding parts.

The other thing is the bushes on the shaft can slog out. If the shaft gets sloppy, the points gap can go all over the show.

If your dizzy mech weights are sticking, youll need to strip that fucker down. If you pop the cap, you should be able to turn the rotor approx a quarter turn, and have it spring back again. In a perfect world, each time tge pounts are adjusted, a drop of oil should be placed under the rotor. This dribbles down and keeps the mechanical advance arms lubricated. (Tbh, i never knew about this either) The other way to check it it to check the timing at idle with a timing light, (vac hose off, and plugged) give her a gradual rev up to 3000. See if the timing mark advances as you do. (Between 1800-3000 approx)

Assuming its a nissan FS5w71b gearbox, there will be bushes on the shifter. If these disintergrate, the shifter will get sloppier than Al's mum.

Can you buy drop spindles? That wound take you down to 30mm.

A mate put a VH41 into his cedric pillarless sedan. The trans was a total ball ache, so he ended up biting the bullet and buying a stand alone trans contol compter. It was expensive ii4c. I dunno if hes on this forum or not.

They also say atf and acetone works well too. I saw a video where some guy unstuc a mega seized ford v8 using hydrochloric acid. But i thought a non corrosive methos might be preferable.

Question for those who have played with rust removal via electrolosis. Do you thing it would work for an engine bore that was rusty A.F/seized? Fill the cylinder with washing soda enhanced water, susoend the cathode in the cylinder, and hook up tge block and cathode to a 180A arc welder. Surely that would boil the rust off the bore walls quick snap? Got a big, ugly in line 6 that sat with the plugs out for a loooong time. Havent pulled the head yet. But its seized hard enough that an attempt to tow it free blew the clutch. Worth noting its big, heavy and ugly enough that removing the engine will be an ordeal. (Let along handling it once its out)

Might depend on the motor? Some 308 had the TH bellhousing pattern, and some the trimatic. Aussies being aussies, its not inconceivable that tge cranks might have a different pattern? /idk tbh.

Remember way way back i shared with you a page with some "rule of thumb" formulas? And you ran the sums, and they said cast piston go BOOM? Is there any galling on whats left of the the pin boss? The last motor i destructively tested to failure had nasty galling on the gudgeon pins. And another piston was stiff on its pin too. Datsun motor go bang too.