peteretep

Vac advance is for economy on the motorway etc. you would probably be better off getting the non vac advance one for simplicity. Plus it's weights should be set to run properly with no vac. Electronic ignition is a really good upgrade for any old motor that uses points

Vac advance is for economy on the motorway etc. you would probably be better off getting the non vac advance one for simplicity. Plus it's weights should be set to run properly with no vac. Electronic ignition is a really good upgrade for any old motor that uses points

some 2" sch.40 is close to 52mm, look at seedy als coilover build thread and hes used that stuff which includes a nut

what ever happened to your indicator button/s?

slipping alternator... dont lie you wanna get the girls with your jilly whine

just use some foam around the intakes to make a reasonable seal

It depends on which carbs you use, but bike carbs arent the easiest thing to fit filters to. Best bet would be to look at how the filter is fitted on the bike then try to copy it, as bike airboxes are usually some weird shape that wouldnt work in a car

Running a standard carb fuel pump you shouldnt need to fit a regulator. Most carbs(bike or other) need ~3psi so you can measure your current fuel pressure if you want. Me and stephen set up his bike carbs with a wide band just driving around the streets and a set of jet drills. You set up the idle fueling with the needle height. In my escort the economy cant be complained about, its not bad at all. There is probably more to be learned about the little ports at the inlets of the carbs but they dont seem to have a big effect on normal running, the ports would normally be inside the airbox but all setups I have seen have them looking at atmosphere. One thing which is different with bike carbs is the linkage is smaller than a car carb which means a shorter pedal movement in the car unless modified. There isnt a problem with either setups but for me, I would go for bike carbs as they are cheaper and newer, new sidedraughts cost a bomb and old ones are all pretty worn from what I have seen

nah you dont need a return line if the regulator doesnt have a fitting for it

yeah its a shame, most mechanics seem to be real against it for no reason

a standard pump should flow enough fuel, if it is standard im surprised that the pressure is too much air leak shouldnt be too hard as you should be able to isolate each runner and test from there

lol

that cam looks extreme, whats the specs? how did you machine the shape of the lobes? nice work

how can you justify spending so much money/time on someone else property with nothing in it for you except a nice look

I am so impressed with all those bikes, words cant describe

is that where you wanted power? you gonna keep it at that length?

the spannys worked out well?

that top design looks like it was made in a university for an example? a cheap bender would be a bulldozer with dies made to suit. it would only require a few heavy plates and no bearings. eg http://www.carellcorp.com/horizontalpress.html , http://machineryhouse.co.nz/Horizontal-Benders-Bulldozers and you just make dies when you need them from aluminium or something easy to make that wont damage what you are working with. also easy to change the ram later to bigger/longer/more powerful depending on your design basically IMO I think what you are basing your design off is not as good as it could be

yeah os pics, i especially like shenanigans pics

wheres the pics

on my escort engine the line running from the high pressure line to the low pressure sender is only a few mm diameter so it seems reasonable that not much oil would come out during cranking, my escort also did not get big oil pressure during cranking though

damn "drybreak", if you know the keywords you can find exactly what you're after

Basically its all guessing as we dont know friction coefficients on anything in the system (or possible hose types), or the capability of the water pump. It is possible that they are way overrated at new to allow for impeller degradation? Using the steam tables you could only make an estimate on how much flow you would need through the engine? and aim to keep the velocity below a certain value?

at a very vague estimate 24mm ID hose would give the same area as a thermostat opening, and if you imagine the flow through a thermostat is alot worse than a nicely flowing bit of tube, then you could run that. based on rubbish/gotta lose direction becuase no one likes one directions

ah whatever my original statement is still correct I cant see a way of doing it without using seal on release couplings except where you have to reprime the system, surely as soon as you drop any water out its likely you will have to reprime the system and have to refill it/have water everywhere