GregT

What's the problem with the current frame ?

Agree clutch.synchro and gear mass are the main factors but you can help yourself a bit too. A clutch pedal stop adjusted so that there is the minimum movement required to free it - and no more - will help. So may a change of gearbox oil.

Devcon - and sand it down. Not too bad a bodge for a old/slow road bike but I wouldn't use it for anything seeing a track.

If you're building a racebike, there are probably more GSXR750J - 1988 - frames around. The 1100 fits - just. A worthwhile size and weight saving.

Have a look in a bike wreckers. The size you quote is close to a lot of the 250/400 fours. The alloy tanks can have the fittings moved quite easily. Please do put in an electric pump. A couple of years back I was asked my opinion of a cylinder head off a Riley being used in VCC competition. The builder thought the color variation front to rear was mixture....I told him it was temperature gradient. It was still using thermosyphon. Even a second supplementary rad under the first would be worth looking at. Better to overcool and fit a thermostat than do damage when it overheats.

If you can get that valve to seal enough to put an air line on the plug hole, you may be able to remove the valve spring from that valve. Once that's done penetrating oil on the stem and move it up & down till it frees. If it won't seat enough to hold air, it's probably bent in which case it's head off. Been through all this with old Jags. It's very common to have a valve stick when one's been sitting - then you bend it.

Done a compression check ? If a valve's stuck open you may have a bent one.

Moving in exalted company there. Well done. Not sure I like the underfloor gearbox position but I see why it's done that way. Hope the floor is a bit better than a piece of MDF...

Fuzzy hair man is pretty well correct. Each bank is a 120 degree spaced three so a 3 : 1 on each side plus enough extra volume/length before a muffler will work. No balance pipe needed. Your full-width large volume, center paired exit muffler will work. The tailpipes/outlets are simply pressure bleed resistors. Make the muffler large enough, no flat sides (as they'll pulse and crack} run the pipes into it for at least 100mm. I'd probably do two outlet pipes of 2in OD perf - with closed inner ends. No packing needed. 28mm here is 1 1/8in OD. Well, closest anyway. If the ports are oval, I'd go slightly larger for the headers and yes, a step at the head joint may help reversion at low RPM. For a 1500cc six, 1 1/4in OD primaries aren't out of the way.

If you can work out most of what you want bent - and draw it - Autobend in ChCh can mandrel bend to order. Their mandrel sizes and radii are on their website - or were. Saves a shitload of fucking about. I'd do separate 3 : 1's with 30inch long headers. Torque peak will be about 5000rpm. Mufflers I'd use the alloy straight thru bike ones off trademe in a suitable colour. One 2in version works well as a race muffler for 1000 fours.

Given the six will have approx twice the torque of the OE Imp, I'd wait till he's tried it before doing any major tuning.

From what little I could gain from Yoshimura's published data, any joiner there should be a larger volume to have any effect. So basically just there for the bullshit effect - and to jack the price up a bit.

If it's an NSU Prima, it's a Siba dynastart. Internet search may have led him here as there's a thread on this started somewhere.

Next time you have a degree wheel on one it'd be interesting to see what the basic LC's are - and where the VVT takes it.

What lobe centers are the 20V cams in on ? In the Yamaha bike versions the stock cams are on 100 inlet 110 exhaust. That's measuring off the outer valves - the center inlet is 5 deg different. It's pretty well known that they go better retimed to 104/106. Better spread and maybe a tad more top end - depending on the pipe. Buit the biggest thing with the bike engines is getting the squish right, Stock is over 1mm - which simply doesn't work. Close it up to .035 - .039in and it wakes them up nicely. The pointer to the problems with the 20V though is the Yamaha advance curves. First peak at 6500rpm 42 degrees.then a drop back to about 36 degrees. 2nd peak at about 8500 48degrees Then a drop to 30degrees at about 11500 - which is the rev limiter. The Prof from QUB who was working with Yamaha gave a talk to the Engine Recon institute some years back. He agreed that there were problems getting the mixture burning at certain rev periods. I suggested it was a turbulence problem caused by the center valve flow superimposed on the outer two. He thought that was probably correct. FWIW the race version 750 - the OW01 - tops out at 52 degrees advance. It's bigger bore than the other 20V engines.

Not unknown for the porcelain to come loose from the body of the plug. You tend to get stains around the joint when it happens.

I won't use powder on my frames. BUT I do have a very good outfit in ChCh who can do traditional baked enamel to a high standard. Ring around the painters and industrial finishers in your area to see if anyone offers baked enamel.

i stand corrected. thank you.

the two at the drive end look like in and out for oil circulation and might be hooked up to an engine top end feed. The back one is a vent imo - and should go to atmosphere. Don't put it to a vacuum area as you'll draw out any lube. Had a supercharged MR2 but never paid attention to how the blower was lubed. Should be a manual on line.

Probably a waste of effort. Getting anything to stick in place now is probably impossible. It is what it is now.

Cut the bucket out and give it another week, The area around where the bucket is needs to be the driest but with it there it won't dry. Start small with heat. Short heat periods with plenty of time to cool between. You're stressing it but trying not to break it.

The worst thing is very long periods sitting. Any sediment in the oil settles out so that when it's finally revived you damm near choke the intake - then the sediment gets pumped around the motor cos it opens any filter bypass. As a favour to the wif I once recovered a Holden ute that had sat for 18months in a cop lockup. A girlfriend of hers wanted it to sell on behalf of the owner - in clink. Oil looked lovely on the dipstick. Pickup in Ashvegas. Halfway back to rown it started smoking....She sold it in the end.

Bigger the range the better. Bastard setting cams up with a short lift DTI. Bigger the magnetic base the better too. Not a lot of crap on the market now. General standard is quite good.

Depends how original you want to keep it - but I'd put something like a Pertronix on it to replace the points. Failing that, the biggest Bosch condenser on the shelf at CAE in Hornby. Good to see one in regular use. Mate had one years back. We picked it up and put it neatly between two parking meters on Hereford st one noght while he was inside. i think he had to get a crowd from the nearest pub to help him extract it.

Did a similar job here some years back. There are advantages to being in a house built 1890 for which no council has any details. Post the quakes they got some detail on the structure and the french door wasn't even questioned.