GregT

Back in the day when those were common, a certain shop in ChCh were notorious for doing "5 minute tuneups" on small 2 strokes. Take it out into the back alley and rev the tits off it for a few minutes and it's done. Timing didn't move on them but the exhaust port would carbon up when running around town. Revving would knock the carbon off the port edges - principally the top edge. Once the top edge was clean it ran a shitload better. Part of it was the oils available too. Semi synth now burns a lot cleaner. Do say four or five of those a day, charging 1 hour minimum each and you see how the foreman was regularly charging out 12 hours plus for an 8 hour day. Owner had a posh house in Fendalton too. That shop is long gone thankfully. But the trick lives on.

Don't loctite your 5mm screws in. Either spot weld the heads or grind a notch in the heads and dot punch surrounding material into it. I've done a lot of clutch adaptations and those screws you do not want to come out.....

The worst thing I know about those is the "back torque limiter" clutch. What that means is that effectively you have no engine braking as the torque limiting mechanism lets it freewheel. It's quite possible to get into trouble downhill on bad surfaces. Just when you'd like a bit of engine braking to stabilise things - you don't have any. Otherwise they seem bulletproof.

Or R.R. Fisher ltd. Also ChCh. I used to use John Brooks but find a better range of belts at Fishers

At the moment I can get out of ChCh for a day at a time. Wound dressings, hospital appointments and chemo make it hard. The spirit is willing.

One day i hope to see this thing in person. Amazing.

I've had them done in NZ previously. A guy I know with a plating business boasted to me he could do the lot incl grinding. I put him to the test on something I'd not been able to find new for. Came out OK but a bit dear. Then he lost the guy who was doing the grinding. I saw the end product of a couple of jobs the new man had done., No Thanks, Not going back.

Rechroming forks is a specialist job. They are hard chromed and finish ground. At the moment I don't know of anyone in NZ who is able to do both plating and grinding in house. I'd suggest pricing new stanchions. Frequently, off road bikes are well supported for things like fork stanchions.

I'm told it's common with mag sparked classic race cars - Ferraris etc - to use the mag or mags as a distributor for coil ignition. Finding someone to rebuild even 50's multi cylinder race mags is getting very hard. Guy I know down here has stopped doing them now. He showed me a mag he'd rebuilt for a RR Phantom which was doing the Peking - Paris. 12 Cylinder Bosch. It apparently never missed a beat Last bike one he did was a Lucas for a Rudge I was building. What's the alternator from ? There are some very small ones now on small agricultural diesels.

Yes, now you put up the pic I remember meeting him at I think a Blenheim show. Nice looking tortie point on the chair.

Also condolences on your loss. i remember reading that letter in Beaded Wheels too. When this happens you do realise there were things you never got to talk about. My brother and I are only now following up on a bit of our old man's history we'd never heard about. And he's been gone for 40 odd years. Looking for ward to seeing what shape plenum you're going to do.

When the hubs were removed off the Mk2 Jag we then had - in order to put wires on it. The Jag factory puller was left on a rear hub overnight at max tension up on the hoist. When the workshop warmed up the following morning there was a loud bang and the hub/puller lump knocked a concrete block out of the workshop wall. Luckily I knew the workshop owner well..... These things can do damage coming off. Be careful

Looks like you could file the holes in the plates for clearance on the spring pillars. Drive is by the splines, yes ? Also the slots in the outer basket could do with a cleanup file - if you're keeping that basket. I'd be tempted to try the clutch on each position of the splined shaft. You may find a combination of errors which runs a tad more true. I've straightened more than one gearbox shaft in the past. A press and V blocks - then check between centers with a DTI.

Copper head gaskets, it's heat to red and quench in water. Your oil leak at the bottom of the pushrod tube could be wrong size O rings. OE will be inch sizes but all you'll find locally will be metric.

Reducing the OD at the top is more likely IMO to have a piece break out. I'd bite the bullet and replace the guide. Qualifying that, I'll say I've made and fitted a shitload of bike valve guides - and a few car engines too.

If it's a single lip seal, the lip always faces the lubed side.

Picked up the repaired car today. Garage in Waimate did a good job, temp gauge didn't move all the way back to ChCh. Talking to them it looks like they found another 2az core engine and fitted the Alphard accessories. Lower mileage than the original too. My first look at the car - shell and trim is mint. Still owes her less than same off a yard. Long day but the weather south of ChCh was very nice.

Garage in Waimate will do the change and have been looking for engines. I've not spoken to them so don't know how switched on they are. It appears they were looking for same-same as probably easier. But seemingly harder to find.

Yeah, sludge. i wasn;t consulted pre purchase but she got her local garage to look it over. Would need Toyota pro to confirm engine interchangeability before spending anything. And ideally in the SI. 4 cylinder AFAIK

Who knows anything about these ? Dog breeder friend of ours bought one privately Low mileage only used for short runs. First long run to a Southern dog show it shit itself, Engine full of sludge which has stuffed camchain tensioner and chain plus probably more. Had an engine lined up but it had been sold and not deleted off stock.... So currently looking for engine. And possibly any info about what else goes in/exchanges. Car is currently in Waimate - where it died. I was to ferry the engine down Friday until that fell through. Any info on an engine source welcome. Thanks

Not something as simple as a damper on the throttle body is it ? At one point a lot of cars were coming with a damper on the linkage to slow the rev drop when you lifted off.

Often there is room for a bigger impeller. Might be worth a look across the Suzuki range to see if there's a bigger pump used somewhere. They all seem to have the same OD where they plug into the cases. Maybe Hyabusa ? Agree a remote pump lets you test circulation rates etc.

It's not unkinown to put a larger OD impellor in the waterpump to increase circulation speed. I'd probably have tried that first before going electric. Nice work so far though.

You want someone who advertises as a repair welder. Best in SI died abt 8 months ago - and I still haven't found a good rep-lacement. They're rare.

Engineless GSXR1100's used to be quite common as the engines went for modified minisprints and other cars. Pretty well all those frames have gone for scrap now. If he's got a frame it's worth trying to get it legal.