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Everything posted by JustHarry
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I've also got the heads and intake manifold and holley 650 double pumper that the old man had ported in the 80s and ran on his 455 so they'll get a set of k liners in the guides and a clean up . Hopefully don't need new valves but we'll see
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So @Carsnz123 send me a message November about a pontiac 400 in Hamilton. I promptly sent the seller a message and it turned out to be a 1972 400 with 7k3 heads and the original q-jet ontop. Sparked a deal and then @Beaver did me a solid and picked it up and stored it for a few weeks till john at south island couriers did a north island run and he picked it up and brought it down to chch 2nd week of December rolls around and I've got covid and I get a call from John that he's gonna be in town tommorow. Cunt . Had to call another favor from a workmate to u load it and store it at work till I could come get it in a fortnight . Finally actually saw the motor I'd payed for over a month prior on the 22rd of Dec Got it home and pulled both heads and from best I can tell it's never been opened up till now. Its not up on a stand waiting for some more time to strip it 100%
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@sheepers I assume you've probably done a web search but it seems unlikely they should have no movement perhaps the ones you have are stuck? https://www.celicasupra.com/threads/lash-adjuster-service-pictorial.59000/ I did a rb25 head a few years back and the lifters in that were impossible to compress. Seemed to work ok when assembled
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What is the tools situation. I am also a solid maybe. I'll see closer to the time
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That's pretty cool I'm taking mums 1979 13ft classic away over new years same sorta deal was my grandparents since way back super original inside has the og rianni gas stove and gas fridge etc. And stupid 13" wheels and tiny bearings that arnt really up to the job lol
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Just looks better more than anything.
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50mm spacing That's normal for repair cert Sils, a pillars, inner gaurds, everything.
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Good you got it sorted. When I do that sorta stuff at work it's usually a 3 person job. One pulled the rope inside and 2 hold the glass/trim and keep it feeding in properly It's always a mega cunt of a job
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We have just done an amilcar rep at work this way. Had to be registered as a scratch built because new chassis We've done 2 alfa 2300 8c replicas this way too that are still local and one used regularly
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Like @Not-a-number says for light steering is a big thing but its a major handling stability reason for having positive camber on beam axle vehicles. Negative camber creates positive scrub radius which makes them handle poorly. Surprisingly enough Bugatti had the front end alignment pretty well sorted for the wheel/tyre combos of the time
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Oh that's right
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A even better question is who tf give out wofs to a car that has strops holding the springs in
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@sheepers did you have to clearance the block at all to fit the 7m crank in?
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13:1 is pretty high for static I guess you already know you'll be on high octane fuel I think it would be worthwhile to keep the squirter to keep things cool . Will help prevent detonation having another cooling system Have you worked out what the dynamic compression is with your cams?
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Mr.mk1's Mopar or No Car '70 Dodge Coronet
JustHarry replied to RUNAMUCK's topic in Project Discussion
Did you have the valve body apart? The can get a bit gummed up in the ball valves/springs Like Clint says too kickdown adjustment plays a big part of how they shift too . Is the filter New? If it's getting worse there could be a blockage/clutch material in the filter. Not uncommon for a old trans that's been sitting to have the clutched fall apart -
Mr.mk1's Mopar or No Car '70 Dodge Coronet
JustHarry replied to RUNAMUCK's topic in Project Discussion
@Mr.Mk1 What's actually wrong with the trans? Like barts there's not much to go wrong with them other than stripping on the bench and putting bushes and clutches into it -
I have the same multi meter as you
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Yeah sounds pretty standard. Normally we'll sandblast stuff like that because that's what the repair certifies want to see these days. Compliance has got pretty brutal with surface and light rust lately. What's the car? And is it worth doing?
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Yeah keen
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Yes it's oil in the pores of the metal Prepsol/wax and grease remover might get it out Reblast is your best option
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Did mcm in January Got another wof on this the other week. Also got some color mixed up to go over the primer. Ended up blowing the roof and bootlid to get the water marks out of it . Then put all the sil trims back on to make it look a bit tidyer . Had to use some urethane to hold some ends on where clips where missing Another pic lso surfaced of dad racing it at Littleton in the late 80s
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Just because the fast idle works doesnt mean the enrichment works. Sounds like it has not enough enrichment when its cold and to much fast idle . If they have an accerlator pump you should be able to start it with a handful of pumps on the throttle before you crank and it should fire almost right up
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It stops being paint if you add to much matting paste in. Glasi fo example is 40% max matting paste in the gloss 2k or It just doesn't dry. Not recommended to use any more then what the paint co recommends
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Glasurit do a matte black 2k. Out if the tin spec Not sure where you are so not sure who the dealer would be. In chch ultra paints are the glasi reps
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How would that work? If it doesnt pump fluid till the output shaft spins. Then even with the motor running itll never go in gear because its not moving so its go no line pressure