JustHarry

Idk about yous but crimp terminals especially those pre plastic ones from supercheap/repco always manage to work loose. Use quality crimp terminals. Drop of solder and a quick heat shrink. And you've got a joint that will never have a bad connection or pull out. It's not rocket science. /I'm sure most of you actually know this Ling

I guess it's just timing to get it working properly. Only thing you might struggle with it getting ththe valves to seal the wring way .

This. Those ratchet ones really need to be able to fold or pinch the metal . With the plastic in place this doesnt work that well Then if you've taken it off might aswell drop a bit of solder on it so it will never pull out

Also take a video

What actually happens @shizzl by the first post you did it sounds like motor runs. But when put in gear and try to drive the drive line binds up. Does the motor stall like it's being jammed too? Surely if it's in gear with your foot on the clutch and it still runs there should be nothing wrong with the clutch arrangement

Porika was a bit questionable last year with the trailer on.

@shizzl So the motor starts . And runs fine? And goes into gear in with your foot on the clutch? So the clutch is probbaly fine. And the car rolls round the workshop when the box in in neutral. But you put it in gear and try drive it it jams? What if the driveshaft is out and it's in gear. Does it spin fine? Maybe just take coil wire off and crank on starter so you dont spray gearbox oil everywhere out the back

Oh derp I read it as if youd put a 1kz in your camper. It's just a 1kz turbo bolted onto your OG motor As you were

Why are you so worried about keeping egts so low? I run my stock kzj78 1kz upto 700 pretty regularly towing. Prettymuch goes to 650 just pulling upto 100k All standard engine management bit with a 3" exhaust. And down pipe. With the standard down pipe it would go to 750 degrees pretty easy

Well I guess you answered your own question The only thing between the driveshaft and the flywheel is the gearbox. And if it all spins fine when jacked up then the diff will be ok or youd feel it.

If your getting some movement it wont be in two gears. Then it would be locked solid . Drum brake rear end? Could the handbrake be binding?

Loosely following. Was kinda keen to ride this but have been given the hard word by @RUNAMUCK that I need to do backup again lol

Yeah kephos is just a general name for the same product. /autocorrect called it keyphos The stuff I buy for work is actually called bonderite Rajohnson sell it by 4 litre containers

Cavity wax is the modern version of fish oil. Theres not really a bad cavity wax tbh. They all do the same job. But that's a very last job. Once no more paint needs doing as it can cause problems with fish eyes

Epoxy isnt a a sealer anymore all automotive epoxy are porous . The only one that was used to be the old green galsurit one. Now because of health a s saftey rules the epoxy as good as they used to be. 6 months is shelf life for a repair in epoxy. longer than that you need to strip it back and recoat. The best way to seal stuff that's gonna be sitting for more then 6 months is to epoxy then slam a coat of cheap 2k over top But also this is just the internet and I'm no expert so do as you please. This is just how we work doing restoration work. Edit: buy some keyphos and just keyphos the bare metal till your ready to epoxy all your repairs at the same time and start the paint process . But this also needs to be stripped fully as it's not ideal to paint over

What's next on the chopping block then?

@J4m13 We can do stuff like that at work Auto restorations ltd Depends how much you want to spend to repair it. Could be as much as half a day by the time theres cleaning welding. Rewelding where it goes shitty. And dressing back. It's quite doable

Ask @fletch how he fixed one of Karl's datsuns the day before hanmer

Of you can find one second hand The lincon 130t or 170t are a great wee unit I've got a 130t at home. Surprisingly grungy for a little welder. But good for fine stuff

Doesnt look like you've seam sealed or under sealed the underside? You'll have issues with rust bleeding out pretty quick if it ever gets wet Also the stonegaurd/underseal helps a lot with noise dampening

Probably gets warm enough that water wont be an issue

Yes. But not gonna fallover/apart Weve got one at work and provided it's on a flat surface and weighted correctly it's pretty good. Have had some pretty big stuff on it

Yes

Hourly m9 so probably slowly

@Bluebear01 how much power does a 1uz in a ms112 make