NickJ

Nothing too wrong with the merc engine, but you've got my attention, what stage cam would you recommend for the drillport?

Totally agree, if it passes all the key inspections I think it will get skimmed, the ports cleaned up, reassembled and matched with new flat top pistons in the block. Just don't want to get all carried away and excited until I have confirmation it is healthy enough to continue with

A while back I came across an L18 in pieces on marketplace, turns out the guy had started a build which got put in the back of the shed for 20 years and forgotten about, I quickly took possession and promptly forgot about it too! Late last night with the aid of 40% off spring compressor from Supercheap I stripped the head down, cleaned up the pieces and sorted them into an identical container to the L20b head. Both will be dropped off for a decent clean and hardness test, I will then crack test them both to figure out a build plan for the new EFI motor. Both heads have the same sized valves and exhaust ports while the L20b has slightly larger intake ports. The L20b head (top) is an "open" combustion chamber U67 casting while the l18 is A87 casting with the closed "peanut" chamber. With both the L18 and L20 blocks sitting there, i'm unsure which combo to go with so secretly hoping one of the heads is shot to cut down the options! Once the top end is sorted out, new pistons, rings and bearings will be ordered, I have a few different cams sitting on the shelf so need to research if the markings mean anything or if a re-grind would be beneficial to the overall plan.

And another shot from last week, this one is growing on me and may have to have printed larger.

Do those guys deal to the public? 500g of chromate would need a few more resto projects to consume!

Was that a supply or regulatory issue?

I too have seen that kit, unfortunately they list the chromate as an addition, a solution that is DG so shipping internationally is not fun. If that can be sourced in NZ, all the bits are found here easy enough.

About to kick off quite some work on the Datsun and among the parts i'd like to restore the yellow zinc finish to fasteners and brackets. Totally aware that there are numerous places around Chch that offer this service and that its not all that expensive but as i'll be doing a stack of work in to clean up all the parts prior and my insane paranoia of loosing stuff or forgetting what goes where 6 month later, running smaller batches in my own time would be very useful. A quick search of chemicals online shows how unsavoury they are and at higher concentrations not available to the general public, but has anyone got a DIY friendly recipes or suppliers I could contact? Feel free to post your setups and experience, its all motivational!

WOF has all but expired, got up early this morning to grab some last chance sunrise shots for additional motivation. Lofty goal but the rough plan as above is a quick...... 6 month rust removal and respray. Or will I have kids? Need to buy a bigger house? Need emergency repairs to current house? Start a new job? Move back offshore? Spend all my project money on new tools instead of parts? Get mad project creep and go all out resto? Oh crystal ball be kind to this Datsun!

Do you have splines in the drawings by any chance? Never chased it far but found the splines output to dxf by fusion don't show up on our WJ software and need to be cleaned up in other software before they can be converted into a toolpath. Something to be careful with as the operator might need to spend time at your cost to clean up the dxf suitable for the machine.

I have a similar issue on the Datsun and its been plaguing me as to how to rectify to be the same as the other side. Was browsing a restoration catalogue yesterday and saw those contour gauges and thought why on earth are they in here? Read your post today and bang, add to cart, keep sharing the practical ideas!

Tractors, Land Rovers and coal smoke, do you even barry?

But does it conveniently fold up for storage on the roof of your widetrack ranger while at Saturday sports? PFT Got sidetracked cleaning up the workshop today, replaced the rotted steering guard with a lump of box section.

Drum brakes are just shit, difference between hot and cold can give imbalance, I wouldn't get too antsy with the wof station over it. $20 on them being out again next week.

Holy crap dejavu! This is 100% how I pictured the theatre when yourself and Hannah were detailing the plan with us over coffee two years ago, I can only imagine how cool it is for you guys to see it come together! PS, Please hurry up, need more imp 911 updates.

We're only there for Saturday, when I spoke to the organisers over the phone about onsite camping they never indicated we couldn't drive out each night (we're camping in the Land Rover while down for the week)

More of a placeholder for me.... Got the car on corner scales, full tank of gas, battery in the right side of the boot and me in the drivers seat gave the best results without getting carried away. Found a younger sibling parked up in a paddock, couldn't resist the photo op WOF expires in a month or so, time to dig into some major work over the winter, possibly ambitious, but I need to start somewhere.

Appropriate techniques and tricks for panel&paint in confined workshops? Looking to attack the rust and panelwork on the Datsun this winter, minor but needs attention stuff, sill, bottoms of gaurds etc, only catch is I don't have a massive workshop, one bay for the car and half for workbench etc. Painting the full car is not really possible inside as I don't want overspray everywhere, but I could make space for a door at a time. Is there any best way to go about the job? Thinking one panel at a time to be able to refit and check lines, hoping this comes with the added bonus of not having too much space taken up for storage for long periods? Once all panels are straight and primed, set up a temporary spray booth in the car port/driveway to finish the topcoat?

Loving the colour choice! Figured if I was going to replace the damaged panel on mine I might as well remove it and have a tap on the workbench. End cap was stuck on with the most impressive black goop i've encountered, not even paint stripper wanted to touch it, lots of gentle prying with a paint scraper got it off in the end. Panel came out pretty good for a first time with Ali, not perfect, but far better than I expected! Just held on now with a few pop rivets until I can source the correct AN470 rivets. Thanks for the inspirational panel work!

All good, sounds like the 4wd trips are going to be busy, 80 vehicles per trip apparently! 3000k is a good hike for a traffic jam.....

+ 1 for hiab, we use Mackleys for loaded 20ft containers at work, good buggers too.

New WOF on the Defender, leave somehow approved, all set to head down! Likely depart the Monday before and camp/cruise the way there. Made a road trip plan yet @M.H.?

There was a time when the Datsun club and OS were one, I feel this arrangement may need re-thinking. Datsun/Mirage wounders inc?

Gave the 1600 a go over today with positive results, most likely join the Datsun club for the day

I used oneil for class 2-4 flatdecks for work, cost was pretty reasonable around $500 for a day