igor

The alarm in my EA Falcon pisses me off cos the fool that put it in (before I got the car) disabled the central locking. My auto sparky reckons it'd take ages to find which wire got cut to fix it. Also I can't leave it unlocked without the keys in cos it knows it's got no keys and the alarm goes off when I open the door.

Thanks guys. Ended up loosening the screws with a cold chisel and a big centrepunch. Only munted them a little bit but I didn't bother putting them back in. Gave the brakes a clean and the noise went away so we're all good. Still plenty of lining left for a little while at least. Stopped from 40 by firm application of the handbrake only and it pulled up straight and smooth with no noise at all.

Thanks guys. I thought about drilling out the screw heads as a last reosrt and wondered if I'd get away with it. Obviously the wheels will hold the drums on but is that legit at wof time or would it fail if they take the wheels off for something else and notice? I've got an impact driver somewhere but I haven't seen it for a long time. If I knew where it was I'd give it a try. Should take a weekend or two and tidy up / sort out my tools so I can find stuff.

My wife's BG Laser is making a bad noise in the rear drum brakes like the shoes are worn out and it's going steel to steel. Not doing it all the time. She mentioned it some time ago so I jacked it up and took the wheels off in case a stone was stuck somewhere and found nothing. Tried to get the drums off for a look but the screws wouldn't come out. Didn't try very hard though cos I didn't want to chew out the screw heads. I took it for a hurtle and couldn't get it to make any brake noise at all so decided a stone must have been stuck in something and then fallen out so thought nothing more of it. Drove it yesterday and got the noise just sometimes. Anyone got any good ideas for getting the stuck screws out without fucking anything? I did give them a good soaking with CRC while I had the wheels off but that was months ago and I haven't had the wheels off again to check whether it did any good. Thanking you in advance, Igor.

Do you just duplicate your progress posts on that other forum we both frequent Alex?

If you must go mad with the paint matt black with flames is always a good look.

I knew that you could in the 80's. Didn't know you still could though. Reckon it'd be the way to go by the look of those pictures in the build thread.

A guy I worked with in the 80's had an MG Midget and he reckoned that the hard top leaked worse than the soft top.

Keep stock height or even raise the rear a bit and fit wide white spokies like back in the 80's. And don't flare the guards, just run it rebel. Got a photo somewhere of a mate's Humber 80 with 15x10s on the back and, I think, 13x8s on the front. Should find it and scan it in.

Nah, still looks worth saving. Have you actually seen it or only pictures?

You have to buy that thing and save it. Wolseley is like the Fairlane equivalent of ADO16s. What're the odds of driving it back without getting caught though? Looks pretty dodgy.

But they are real British horsepowers aren't they?

Would be a sweet tow car and or family cruiser. Is that the model with the same motor as the small Commer trucks of the time or is my hazy memory just losing itself in the past?

the reaper cometh at the time of his own choosing ky.

hahaha

No reason at all. I used to sharpen my scythe in the lounge but I don't now cos we have new carpet in there.

wtf is falafel?

http://www.armyandoutdoors.co.nz/hunting-stealth/british-army-camo-net

Just buy a big camo net from the army surplus shop and chuck that over it.

Liking the flatdeck. It gives the thing some real truckness. How did those widened rims work out with the factory hubcaps? They look like they'd be a prick to take the hubcaps off. You'd just about need to make a special tool for them.

Sometimes the remote release solenoid on my coon doesn't click so I just spring the clip with my knife. Not recommended at big city servos due to some city folks paranoia.

I'm trying not to spend money on it. I can probably find some automotive hose or farm thing in my spare parts pile that will do the job. Easy replacement if the machine is up on a stand in the workshop so one does not have to stand on one's head to reach the thing.

Today I finally got round to putting another power cord on the F&P 380. After seven years in the paddock it powered up and spun. All the switch gear seems to be operational. All I need to find now is a drain hose that fits on the pump outlet then I can give it a proper test.

I'd go iron head for improved reliability but I'm just prehistoric.

you need these http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/tyres/auction-887228643.htm