Mof

That's definitely going to need a new sleeve in the block. They've drilled right through the protrusion of the sleeve that seals the gasket to the head! If its dry liner they can be fucking tight to get out. Block should be ok though just built up again with knead it or similar. Head is shagged. What's up with the white valve in cylinder 2? Looks like it's been hot Where's hemi?

^bungy cord hook caps I use them for aerial caps Full circle

And his English is far too legible

Bust out the map gas and a big chunk of solder

Yeah I've seen it, but haven't really convinced myself/her of a good reason to have it. And, if I brought that home, I have a feeling I would be sleeping in it, dogbox spec

Woo I have a spec Also, Pictures or it didn't happen

Aww what!

I reused the original pins, the shackle plates completely fell apart. Was lucky it didn't take itself off the road as these are the fronts.I might post them up in failures tomorrow. And yeah I realize ppl make longer shackles, i jjust wanted to check it was legal To do so. The first wof guy wanted cert for the supposedly home made shackles after all. Also, I would never make longer shackles, they fuck up the pinion angles and caster angle. It's the wrong/lazy way to a suspension lift imo

Sweet, cheers man you're a champ

Ok so this may be helpful... I replaced a clutch master cylinder (basically the same idea) and suddenly the clutch would get a small line pressure. the more times the pedal was pressed, the more pressure would be held. Turns out after much head scratching, the aftermarket master had a circlip and washer fitted in the top, and this was preventing (by only a mm or so) the piston fully returning. therefore preventing the small valve in the piston from releasing pressure. We eventually figured this out by removing the circlip/washer and blowing through the ports and releasing the piston to the point of air flowing from outlet to inlet. The point this one did was right flush/above the circlip position. Woohoo, refitted and all was well. What a rant maybe helpful info?

Harman motors. Colombo st, close to Brougham

Ha yeah This guy reckons one rear wheel bearing is so bad I probably shouldn't drive it home! And rear brake imbalance. First guy this morning had no mention whatsoever of imbalance or bearing Go figure I have been going to the first place on and off for the last 7 years (not now they pulled this shit) but the new place spotted the missing reflectors first go Cletus another question, are self made shackles ok? As the front ones are broken

Ok so been to another place, probably not such a good idea using a testing station but at this time of day... I got a bigger list, but at least it's sensible stuff that I can fix. He also pulled it up on body lift and I thought WHAT! seems he oversighted it on the plate. Side note- only one fail point was the same between the two sheets!

Like right now? there a reason for that?

Hey Mr Cletus I've just been for a Wof on the Samurai... and failed A couple things I agree should fail, and I will get them fixed. But he also failed me on- -"Certification for body raise kit" The cert plate has "Body Lift" printed on it, but he reckons it doesn't specify how much it is lifted, wtf? -"Certification for rear spring shackles" These are factory shackles, guaranteed, hand on heart! He reckons they are not and I need them certified! -"Certification Plate Has Injected, not Carburetted" This is a fuck up by the certifier, as it has never had injection! And I never noticed it. Unfortunately the certifier is no longer in business... How would I get this fixed? Cert was carried out in 2012 with no problems up til now, plate # 6408HH Side note- I will not be going back to this Wof guy!

Woooooooo Purdy

This works on brakes, but I've never tried it on a clutch- leave the pedal wedged all the way to the floor over night

Do About 5 full depressions repeatedly, note the travel Then wait about a minute, then do one full depression and see if it's the same, if not you have air in the system. Or do like 5 full depressions, hold the 5th and see if the gears are any better. If they are, you have air

You may need to remove the slave pushrod and free up the adjuster,then try again

So you were back bleeding from the slave to the master? You will probably need to bleed it the other way as well, there is probably trapped air in the slave. Also, I can't follow your description of the adjustments,but there should be a tiny amount of free play between the pushrod on the pedal, and the master cylinder piston. And a couple mm free play between release fork pushrod and the slave cylinder piston

They really do

Check earth to the dash/cluster

Bit of an overreaction there?

Nice flex man, farking awesome! and what a noise That's a great looking place, sure would be fun to throw the Samurai at that hill Maybe a little weight over the rear axle might help with "handling"? Like this type of weight Also what pressure are you running in the tyres?

Don't put your tongue on it on a frosty morning Honestly what are you doing tonguing a steering wheel anyway?