fletch

Yea but not on a Thursday night in Taranaki. The way they drive at the track they would probably need them on the water pump and ps too!

This was the mk2. You can see the strap behind the pulley to the power steer pump. Sorry it's not that clear a photo. Was just a bit of flat bar with a nut welded in and ground down and a longer bolt in the idler pulley. The pump end was just a slot. The reason for this was that the dog box allowed caused the motor to drop a couple thousand rpm in an instant in gear changes and the inertia of the alternator would cause it to pull the tensioner back as it slowed down and snap back and the belt jump off. The bearing on top was to stop the belt whipping. Dunno if it was necessary but 550kw means you try everything. ...

That's a manual tensioner there. The auto's don't have the shock absorber. Got some sideways hat mates that do the sideways driving and they all had trouble with the belt coming off their 2j on the mad downshift. The solution to their problem was to tap the idler bolt right through, put a washer on the front, and a bit of flat bar to the power steer bolt and do it up tight. The manual tensioner arm with the 2 bosses for that bracket was expensive as f from toyota. I can get a photo if you want

I used to chip xboxes and Playstations a while ago and I ground up the tip on a soldering iron to get onto the small spots. You might have to carefully scrape off the lacquer before you can get it to stick.

The column change mechanism you have should be sweet for the extra gears. You just need to have enough travel up/down, and in/out. You can shorten/lengthen the linkages to make it work.

Only for fully sick max boost I think.

The local gasket place in new Plymouth do them all the time. They use a cnc cutter thing that is usually used to cut regular industrial gaskets and they just chuck a piece if copper in and trace your supplied head gasket. I think they quoted me under $100 for a 6 pot one

what size seal have you got there? stock is 35x50x11 but nissan replacements are only 9mm thick so it sits further in so they rub on a fresh part of the driveshaft thats a good idea

The fuel pressure is not holding in the fuel rail when the car is turned off. There will be a check valve between the pump outlet and the fuel rail. Either that is not holding, or the fuel pressure regulator back to the tank is passing.

Fuel pump controller? My skyline had one and I think some other efi cars I have messed with have had them. Gives the pump lower voltage unless pedal is mashed. I think there are a bunch of diy pwm controllers out there now.

Didn't think you needed squirters for a wof? They have never checked mine at a bunch of testing stations.

I just had my 2 piece drive shaft rebuilt and balanced. The rear shaft had a little side to side slop on the yoke. At low speed it would stay centered but as the rim got up it would slip hard one way and get stuck there from the g force. Balancer man showed me on the balancer. Interesting to see. Shows why my vibration got worse with speed and was not there below about 60k.

All of the diffs have some kind of issue so the the one with the least slop went in. I also parted with some cash for someone to make a new front piece of the driveshaft and balance it. Been burning around in it today to make sure there are no issues. Gearbox - check Driveshaft vibration - check Diff - hmmmm. I'll take some bananas Front end - not so good I pulled the front left apart and the outer wheel bearing has decided to shit the bed. Same bearing as 80 series cruiser kingpins and the 12 roller version that I have is prone to dying. Tomorrow is Taranaki anniversary so no shops open. I'll try and get some overnight parts from Japan from Auckland. Leaving for chch Friday with my 2 yr old son. Don't think he will be that keen on sitting on the side of the road for a day waiting for help. Maybe I should join the aa? No photos of bearings due to me being busy swearing at the fucking thing.

Haha didn't see that.

FS5W71C Floor Shift 5 speed Warner synchros 71mm between shafts centers C revision box. (Larger countershaft front bearing, larger 1st/2nd synchros+ selector) R4W71B Remote (column) 4 speeds B revision. Etc FS5C71B Same but the C stands for Porsche type steel servos(synchros) I have found these in random zed's but in no particular pattern. RFB twenny debt and 25 no debt and s13/14 have the C type box with the 6 bolt plate at the back holding the shifter. The bellhousings are mostly interchangeable. If you try to run a C onwards gearset in a B housing you will need to machine a bit of clearance for the larger counter gear and bearing, and drill out the 1st/2nd selector rod hole from 14 to 16mm. The B gearset goes straight into the C housing with the C bearing, but you need to sleeve the selector hole down to 14mm. The gearbox revisions went all the way to H. The later ones had synchros on reverse and double synchros on 2nd. I have a good selection of boxes, parts, new synchros etc in stock if you need bits. Barry out...

Progress has been slow due to general life and family commitments. So I stripped the box to get the short mainshaft, then stripped a long box that I had in stock for the rest of the parts. Stripped Then it got out of hand and I had to rob some parts from another box I had stripped earlier I also replaced the bush in the rear housing. Nissan won't sell you one, only the complete rear housing for $184 usd. I found one for $12 nz and got it yesterday from the US. Changed the box over into the car today. Bad idea doing it over my head on the hoist as I still have a crook shoulder from dromageddon. .. Next, the diff has a lot of slop. So I thought, easy, I'll just swap it over for a spare I have. Well the spare has stuffed spider gears by the feel of it. I have another head but it's unknown condition. I suppose I'll have to make 1 out of 3 next week. Hopefully it won't be @governorsam banana skin spec to get to choose and back...

I swapped the new semi sealed headlights from my old Datsun to a slightly less old version of the same thing. Swapped them cos a new set for the other car is around 350 and I have spent too much recently Anyway, I thought I would be smart and just swap over the extra relay and wiring from the other car also. Well it appears that the older car switches the 12v and the newer car switches the 0v. Meaning the relay stays on due to the relay earthing through the other high beam lamp. Reason for relay is extra current drawn by new lights. Anybody got any ideas on an easy way to wire it? The correct way in my situation is to run a high and low relay and wire all the lamps to them. This will take a while to do properly and I'm looking for an easy way.

I usually just trim the pipes until they fit nicely and masking tape them together. Once it's all made up I take it to the welder and they scrape a bit of tape back and tack it then another spot etc. Saves them having to weld over rough stuff.

Sweet rammer I built out of a rfb25det gearbox mainshaft with some glue heatshrink and a bit of 32mm electrical conduit. Plus some yards I have been building after hours. This is the reason I have no drive shaft or working gearbox and my trip to Nats via chch is only 3 weeks away. ....

?? The injectors don't inject their max cc all the time. Doesn't matter what cc injectors you have, you still need roughly the same amount of fuel to make the same power. Calculate the power you want to make, then there is some formula all over the Internet for the amount of fuel that is then divide by 8 injectors. Plus 20% so your injectors are not at 100% duty cycle. That is the minimum size you can run

Haha looks like a sump top and bottom

Nah all good, just wanted some opinions. I have a complete diff plus a good head in stock, I was hoping everyone would say it will be sweet as bro and I won't have to change it. Changing it means I should do the axle bearings as they have done 270kms also.

How bad is this? I want to do 1500km in 6 weeks time. H190 diff. Been like this for 20 000km I think.

What he said. Easy to do once you have done it once or twice. I have hoarded *some* gearboxes so I can send you a fork if that's what you need. Will need to take a photo of it as there are more than 2 types of 1st/2nd fork. YouTube videos will teach you how to open it. There's 3 in this series. This is an earlier B box, but 99% same to open.

you are right. i need to find a reason for them failing. i think i know the cause, but it appears to be my fault with the whole measure twice, cut once thingy. I am trying to organise a replacement front half of the driveshaft to be made in the next few weeks.