ajg193

Is there a particular reason to stick with 13" wheels? (Cheap supply of tyres?) Going up a size or two would remove a lot of bottlenecks

Just use your brakes less you hoon

My brother had a GTI as his first car, must have been nearly 25 years ago. He crashed it on the harbour bridge once Another time he shot a rod out the block doing 180 on a back road After that he replaced it with a 4WD turbo familia, he paid $6000 at the time. No idea if that was a lot of money or not back then. That was a fun car to ride in

Jane says we can do it. @igorI expect to see you there, you are also welcome to crash at our place on either side of the event, we have both a room and a shack on offer

I recognise those storage units, they're directly across the road from where I work in Ferrymead. One of them caught fire a month ago /Ling

You'd think in this day and age the computer would do it all for you. I expect if they tried to give it a 12 month WoF the computer would throw a fit

What's the go with getting a wof 1-2 weeks early these days? Twice in a row now I have gotten 6 months from inspection date instead of 6 months from original expiry date.

My steam converted briggs still had the plastic gear and I beefed up the valve seat pressure to over 100 PSI, surprising what those parts can handle

Briggs and Stratton camshafts have nylon lobes that are injection molded directly onto the shaft and they never seem to fail

Shrink fits are legit. About 4 or 5 years ago I had to design an extrusion container for making magnesium rods, the container needed to be made of multiple shells of high strength (H13) steel that are shrink fitted together to get enough strength. The shrink fit was used to put something like 600 MPa of compressive stress on the inner liner, giving almost 2000 MPa of pressing capacity. I think it was something like a 0.15mm interference on about a 53 mm diameter sleeve, required temperature difference was about 250 or 300C to get it to all fit together. Was quite stressful as the liner was about 150mm long and had a nitrided surface so any lathe tooling would just bounce right off if it grabbed and needed to be redone.

Do those plates have a sanded surface on the letters? I currently have the mill set up for flycutting plates - I can quickly skim a tiny amount off the top to get original finish back if you want

My brother got his ranger diff done by some outfit in drury a few years back, seems happy with the result.

Here I was thinking that a swaybar link was so cheap that noone would screw around welding a shagged one back together https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/4882035030

What was the problem with trailers? Just people cutting plates to fit?

I trust it was driving afterwards? What ended up being the verdict with the blowby?

Make sure to salt your carpet for added cooling

Yep, Wargames Best hacker movie of all time

How did you make the stamp?

I should give you shit for not accounting for those phone/network outlets on your wall

Hold up one dirty darned second. You need to have a WoF to issue a car with plates/register it. You need to have plates to get a WoF. New WoF rules state you can't use a trade plate for WoF How are they going to work around this inconsistency?

The Barries at VTNZ didn't specify that AA-DPish use square edged letters and 2.5mm thick plates. Up until something like IA they then used chamfered letters and after that they moved to 2mm thick plates with chamfered letters. They ain't gonna be able to catch 'em all

May as well scrap my dies now

Surely there is going to be an abundance of the new 830cc rotors in wreckers in a few years, they must have potential for fun

I saw a video where a guy put vinegar in his cylinders for a few days. Didn't help and probably just locked it up worse. Your best bet is to say 'mei banfa' and walk away from the engine