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piazzanoob

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Everything posted by piazzanoob

  1. is the regulator you talking about an external bosch one? re55 part number?
  2. What Clint Said is what it needs. wide open throttle on carb should be wide open on the trans linkage. Sometimes easier with 2 people one underneath moving the lever and one checking at the top. and as others have said only real adjustment is the bands and kick down. But would only adjust the bands if confident in doing it. Otherwise normally 727s & 904s as quite smooth during gear changes. also check throttle travel too as with aftermarket carbs they need playing with and the amount of throw on carb can be wrong. Also how is the motor running? As you were asking about timing
  3. Ah right thanks Seen that avgas in rich form can get 130+ octane rating but nut sure if that is true or not
  4. Anyone on her had much to do with avgas? Looking to do some testing with it on a 2stroke motor to try get more power. How easy is it to get and where is the easiest place to get it? Cheers
  5. If your looking at doing some upgrades on the gearbox to help it last then i would look at getting the gears and shafts super finished. from what i know it was invented by NASA and is used on items under high stress. many racecars and bikes get it done on engine gearbox and diff parts. standard practice on high end racecar stuff. but gets done often now for things that get pushed to their limits. im not sure if anyone local to you does it but there is a crowd in auckland that does it. Morgan engineering in penrose. i have personally not had it done but seen the results of it done.
  6. That’s a good oil to use as definitely want a high zinc oil in it. as with lifter noise if it’s bad I would run it without the valve cover on the side that seems noisy and place a piece of cardboard to stop it splashing on the headers. Then use a hammer handle while it’s running and apply pressure to each rocker on pushrod side and find the one that goes quite. Or just get a long screwdriver and place your ear on it to find the noise. also hate to say it but comp cams haven’t got the best lifter reputation out there. I personally wouldn’t use them and would only use Johnson lifters myself. It’s a big issue with v8s and lifters. Not just comp cam ones either im guessing they were all stripped and cleaned prior to installing? As really want to catch the issue with the noise before it wipes a camlope off. although if the preload is currently zero then that would definitely cause a noise. How was the preload when you checked it? ive always set all that up before the inlet manifold is fitted and can see the lifter preloads. Then remove and fit inlet. Im guessing you already know all of the information I just wrote but if not here ya go goodluck as never is fun doing the job twice or having to lean in the engine bay.
  7. What engine oil are you using? also what brand lifters did you use? new carpet colour I think looks good too
  8. I did find this https://www.hawksmotorsports.com/82-92-camaro-firebird-dash-harness-used-select-application/ as im guessing your dash loom is cut up. otherwise might have to ring around some of the wreckers here or find a facebook iroc page and post. and im not sure also if an 89 loom will be the same or not. the engine bay as looking as if doesn't have any factory stuff anymore like engine related i would just start again and possibly just buy a rewire starter kit as has the wiring and colours and fuses and relays already. I think there is a few auto sparky type people on here
  9. I kinda have a soft spot for these too. just not with the smog 305s or 350s they come with. sweet project seem like it needs much to get on the road?
  10. Before putting some coolant in the motor do some kms first as with a new headgasket needs time to get some heat cycles in. putting coolant in now can cause a coolant leak from the head gasket. coolant is really good at finding somewhere to leak. i would do about 500kms before putting some coolant in. totally fine to do system flushes though with water
  11. https://www.edelbrock.com/chrome-steel-fuel-line-with-3-8-barbed-end-inlet-and-wothout-fuel-filter-8126.html Can add a pressure gauge into these too. im not sure if they do a 5/16 barbed end or not possibly just 3/8 but im guessing you ran 3/8 line anyway https://www.edelbrock.com/black-steel-fuel-line-filter-kit-fo-eps-carbs-81343.html https://www.staparts.co.nz/Search-For-Products?time=8.0074 if you wanted one that you can add a filter too. Im sure there is also other manufacturers of the same thing around also. comes down to how much you really want to spend ive had radiator shops clean fuel tanks for me in the past and can pressure test them also. last one i got done last year was 150 from a shop in auckland. yeah those filters are nice that you can see if fuel is there or clean. the injection filter will be good as is a much smaller micron filter than a carb one im not sure how much an anti return valve will help but would be interesting to know. if electric pump it probably doesn't matter to much either. bad thing is edelbrock carbs evaporate fuel much quicker than a holley. so can't see the valve helping as they vent from the bowls most vehicles that have had fuel issues when sitting i just fitted a small low pressure pump before the mechanical pump to prime the system. but they just need to be fitted low enough that they are at the bottom of the tank height as they are not designed to suck or last long working like that. me personally are a fan of a mechanical pump over electric as less likely to have problems. but when running big power and need more fuel that's a different story.
  12. goodshit on getting some progress and getting it closer to the finish. Im not sure if your aware but edelbrock make a fuel fitting from the carb to a 90 that comes out the front which softline goes straight on. or they do a fuel filter fitting end version too also if the fuel filter you have is the clear glass/plastic jobbie from speed shops ive seen them blow apart which isn't good and they are really restrictive. once you open them as from memory you can unscrew them and see how shit they are. Any car i worked on that was getting fuel or engine related work on would get them taken off and a steel one fitted. or the customer was told about those filters. not that im telling you how to build your own car. just some advice if you weren't already aware has a nice lope to it too
  13. cool to see denham's car still rocking around and even better it back where it was when he got it. unlucky about all the axle/ diff issues its having
  14. Also did the annual OS kumeu weekend. good weekend with plenty of walking pace cruising can confirm the cars traction control on grass with boot passengers doesn't work. perfect grasskhana automobile Better living everyone
  15. Did some miles and took to beach hop in November with zero issues t Then did some OS drags prep needed some other wheels/tyres for the day ended up buying some new tyres for my original wheels. also got a bonus of getting a white wall one too also managed to get my best bp this time round too. car ran flawless with zero issues too
  16. Another yearly update on this thing did a pre wof check on it myself and found some play in the front top inner arm bushes. so had to order the parts in from the USA since ive owned this car i always had thought it had a rubber bush for the top inner A arm bushes. but no they actually have a nut and thread and use grease to keep them quiet and not wearing out. my car never had any grease nipples in there to keep them lubricated. bit of a shit design really but that's what they came up with. pulled the arm off with a view of quality factory welding if you look close on the thread of the shaft that it has worn away the thread. old vs new ones fitted new ones to both sides and added grease nipples. now no play in the front suspension. also while i ordered the shaft kits i ordered some bits for the steering wheel. only had the part since 2019. needed the pieces to make it stay on the wheel. after the repairs the car got another clean sheet wof
  17. I would be checking to see if the cracking continues below the valve seat insert which would required getting the head to a reconditioners and getting machined out then following by a crack test. repairing cracked heads isn't a common thing to do now most end up in the bin and find another non cracked one
  18. Either sterling clutch and brake or greenlane speedshop GSS
  19. if looking for gauges on the lower budget side i would use. trisco mechanical water temp. super accurate and easy to fit. have fitted these to quite alot of vehicles even just for testing trisco electric or mechanical oil pressure gauge. if using mechanical gauge i wouldn't use the factory plastic line or a copper tube. have heard of the lines splitting and spraying oil in the engine bay and cabin which hot oil can catch fire. get some fittings and AN hose to suit. https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/trisco-trisco-water-temperature-gauge-mechanical-52mm/293680.html?cgid=SCN01081906#start=3 https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/trisco-trisco-oil-pressure-gauge-mechanical-52mm/293682.html?cgid=SCN01081906#start=5 https://www.repco.co.nz/en/globes-batteries-electrical/electrical-accessories/gauges/trisco-electric-oil-pressure-gauge-go520/p/A1027541 https://www.repco.co.nz/en/globes-batteries-electrical/electrical-accessories/gauges/trisco-electric-water-temperature-gauge-gt520/p/A1027994
  20. you got that right. daily occurrence for him im sure he would be somewhat interested to do his magic when you are ready to move things forward
  21. This looks like a great resto job for @RXFORD to do
  22. after fitting new head gaskets its a big no no to put antifreeze in straight away. normally the process is do some miles and heat cycles like 500 miles and retorque heads when hot then fit antifreeze. have the heads been machined? and block checked with straight edge? also copper spray is a good thing to put on the gaskets to help seal. but if you don't want to strip it again i would drain all coolant and just add water and do some miles and retorque heads then add sealant pellets then coolant
  23. for trans fluid use type f like you said as type f is basically a trans fluid with no additives for like friction modifying etc. great fluid for old type transmissions. but any old texron 3 will also be fine for a c4 or trans of same era. and for the steering ram there not too hard to do yourself if you are mechanically minded. if you want pics i did the one in my galaxie build thread. also driveshaft looks abit dodgy i would also pull it out and send to russell @ driveshaft specialists
  24. shit that thing makes good power for a 4age must mean it will be ready for OS drags in December?
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