Ghostchips

@SOHC can buy this around the corner from your place that old guy i get parts from.

Bump, this is tomorrow

Mmmm... wonder if i could get my shitheap there again this year? Could be alright. Could buy more rusty crap to sink money into too. Keen.

Someone had deemed these "junk" and left them in a fish bin full of water outside for a year. Some time ago i cut open a dead RB25 coil hoping to see what was inside. Such fine wire, so many windings. About a million of the finest wire windings i had ever seen, trapped in resin plastic, sealed and unable to be unwound at all. At least by any methods i could see. These 100 year old ford ones remind me of the same thing, except the wire is slightly thicker and there is 2 lots of 1million windings. 2 per coil around a heavy primary winding. Accidentally put a chisel into the primary and is still works. Not for 100 years anymore as it'll corrode now it's damaged but still... not many ignition coils you can pull the windings out of, involving chipping away or melting the tar they were packed in. Those brown paper things are capacitors. Condensers effectively, like you have for a distributor. While i'd heard of old timers making their own from paper and chewing gum wrappers back in the 1940s when they were poor kids fixing their first car... i'm not that keen. These had real tin foil, not the alloy foil we have today so they solder really nicely. A couple tested within spec' so i re-used them. Others i replaced with orange things. Mix and matched the wood. And going ot do the same with the burnt out windings so i can turn 8 burnt ones into 4 good ones... hopefully. Had some burn up after 10 minutes of driving because i didn't realize how keen they were to have inch long sparks jumping inside the box if i didn't put the glass plates and tar back in. Opps. Bit marked up, some have clear borer holes in them but not too bad for 100 year old ignition parts. How many of you are still running original coils and points at 1/3rd the age?

850cc? is a destroked 1000. If you are worried about power, a non-standard exhaust can help. Maybe a GT cam but that's up to you to decide.

If it's for your V8, i think copper core is better for the coils. But i always forget what kind of coil you're using on that thing.

The points are old but kind of work. The wood they mount on is soft and has borer so i'd have to replace it or stiffen it with something to give the points a steady pressure. The thing with the points is they're activated by the pole of the coils winging core so putting a small bike coil in might work, but i'll have to have the end of the coil sticking out of the wood. I'll see what a coil expert i know thinks about this. He might have some tricks.

Probably better than the one on this one. Drinks a bit of gas. Replacing the internal condenser is the easy part. There is probably a way of putting a modern tiny 'on plug' or bike coil inside with a MOSFET set to give it a frequency buzz when active but nothing i'd make would be that hardy.

Hood tie down strap made from a leather belt. The belt is so long it forms a loop for someone 3 times my size. Could wrap that around my waist 3 times before it met the first belt hole, and it has a functional lock in it. Why would it have a lock? So i don't know if i should start a technical thread on "How to make trembler coils" as mine are toast and one of the borrowed ones died today. Never successfully made an ignition coil before, i think i'll need help of the electrical gurus on here.

My diff had spider gears inside a 2 piece housing. By putting hard fibre washers in there (they put pressure on each end of the axle shaft where they meet at the center, acting as a clutch with a 1 inch diameter) it limited the slip, at least until the washers wear down a bit. Have heard of putting lead around the spider gears, easy enough to remove later if you pull the diff' apart, and no welding, so no harm done. Won't break your axle shafts either.

If it's the same as my gearbox and you need parts, i might be convinced to part with it. Not sure how it'd make it's way to hawks bay though. I better pull mine out of wherever it's buried and examine it..

Had a ford 10 gearbox with the same rear mount.

Huhu haaa someone know my password, and it's not me.

My sister has a new workshop and she said you should come see it, particularly if you like Nissans & Toyotas 28 October. There will be pizza and drinks http://www.facebook.com/events/174566376421391/

Lifter, rocker, and see how it goes. Probably be just fine.

i wouldn't risk it, it'll likely be fine as it is.

Still wondering about this car myself.

That crank looks repairable to me, i have one with 35 thou' taper waiting to be ground. And good to see you got onto this cars repairs so soon.

I've had to spot, spot, spot each hole with a MIG (then used an actual spot welder) but then again i don't do that many unibodies.... It's not pretty AFAIK.

These are actually under-rated as far as 70s panel vans go.

This is relevant to my interests.

When i worked in the radiator shop there was a specific paint used on the radiators that had higher heat transfer. The edge that receives incoming air needs the most paint.

Kind of proves why you shouldn't use GL-5 in a 2 speed diff' from the 1920's due to the brass/bronze wearing away. Someone was saying ti would take 800 years to eat the brass but that's only if its not driven.

It is possible there is water in your oil now. A guy asked me to find why his car was misfiring. Out of habit i checked the oil, was overflowing. After the oil drained out the dipstick a lot of green water came out. A whole piston and rod was lodged in the water jacket.

Pretty standard rust for cars up my way. You can fix it! Probably. Providing you get the knack for welding to thin steel.