h4nd

Catch lift, and look at rusty tin?

That gif doesn't show momentum effects, though, which are a big deal in 2T engines (and turbines).

Still looking Rad man. Sharks teeth in the wheel well?

Halogen tube bulbs in worklamps popped. I have ~R7 lamps. The first replacements didn't fit, So I investigate further. Old bulbs were 79mm. New bulbs were 77.95. Recesses in new bulbs were deeper, too, exacerbating poor fit. I found listings online for 78, 79 AND 80mm. I took the lamp itself to Mitre10, the Philips bulbs were too short, the GM were ok, and there was a separate one on the shelf, listed as 88.3mm. W. T. F. Loose connectors fire-hazard much? Lamp / bulb manufacturers need to start firing engineers who don't speak manufacturing tolerances.

A birdie tells me there's an N360 motor on trademe?

Leave glovebox open and empty seems to help, too

5 OS cars and only one bonnet up? Where's the solidarity?

Ben_10 was wanting a ride (other thread?) Anyone been in touch?

To clarify, The Peg is the pub. New world is 5 mins closer to town. Last year they *cough* asked us to leave.

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/34297-cb-radios/page-6?hl=radio#entry1454953 Summary: get pretuned, or find someone with a SWR meter and fiddle.

Interestingly, I too raced one of these. A guy I raced against said he'd got ~25hp from his on the dyno. I have footage, and should get around to putting it on UtuTube. Bucket Racing. Yeah.

https://www.google.co.nz/maps/place/Belfast+Tavern/@-43.4377639,172.6370964,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m2!3m1!1s0x6d318dcd67c6b25b:0x8b06bed34c1724b2?hl=en and +1 for slowvoy. I may print an (80) for my car rear window.

And you're right, the interior is sweet. I had a SJ410 with the same sweet F10A motor.

I had an F10A in a SJ410, and on a mid-cool day, WOT running, it would occasionally ice up. Wait 5, and was all good. Check summer / winter feed on air cleaner? I'm with the guys, check ful flow, solenoid, (fuel pump diaphram?), and sparkies first. After that, the other weirdo I've had, is the Dai at marahau ran fine for 10-15, then as it heated up, the spark leads gradually unseated. Was a bitch to diagnose.

Nice update. If you're worried about battery, I suggest 2 prong attack: 1/ measure drain, and make it lower if anything is leaking too many mA. B/ You can get disconnector thingies, the boaties use em... http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/SCA-Battery-Terminals-Isolator-Switch-Universal-1-Pack.aspx?pid=214448&menuFrom=1021559#Recommendations iii) A few watts of solar, to defeat the self leakage goes a long way. can get ~1sq foot for $20 on sale from time to time.

Maybe silly question, but are you sure it's on RPM, not battery test mode? Pushbutton stuck / faulty?

LoL sales pitch. I'll buy you a beer just for being up front.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/caravans-motorhomes/parts-accessories/other/auction-923624765.htm

Sorry bro. You're normally pretty sorted, I assumed you were delightfully indisposed, you uni student you

I'll be supremely happy with either, gourmets with preferences feel free to skew the vote

Rusty 'vert, noice! Got a spare forklift around to convert it to 'leccy?

Anywhere with a fire to warm my old man bones...

Close, but not really. Let me show you a waveform from that point: You can see there's a bunch of edges even going negative, so you're going to need some signal cleaning to use that point, even if it's level triggered, though typically that kind of input is edge triggered... I assume the coil mood you mention will have that covered for you, thinking about it. Point to note, is that the peak voltages are ~100 - 200V

Who's for wankré coffee mid-week. I liked Felixx suggestion of airport, but am working addington-ish laterly. or CCC Blenheim?