SOHC

Hello I am doing the brakes in a car I have been building for a wile, I have a Jag IRS diff with inboard disk brakes and 1954 Customline Drum brakes on the front, don't laugh. I have a Holden HQ master tandem cylinder, one port on the master cylinder has a residual pressure valve and the other dosn't My question is can I run the line witch was originally for the HQ rear to my now front drum brakes?

SOHC,s Triumph's Post your questions here and they won't get deleted

The orange one I sold to a collector, the old owner had covered all the ally kick plates in tape to protect them, it was probably the best example I have ever seen. As for the green one it was soo rusty it was not worth fixing, I sold all the others to people who I hoped would look after them. After the crash I didn't want to drive them anymore.

Here are my old triumphs, the orange one was a mint 1978 2500TC I bought off the original owner, has power steering and original cross-ply tiers all round. The green was a 1971 2000, I found those funny old mags and they fitted right on, later I also made some lake pipes, stuffed the motor revving it too hard, then I used it to shunt over small trees on the farm till it died Also had a Teal 1976 2500 PI and a red 1975 2500 and a wite 1976 2500, and a brown 1972 2500, I seem to have lost the photos. The teal one was my favorite, 1975 2500 I had the engine and gearbox rebuilt, everything witch unbolted off the block was chromed or polished, Coby exhaust system, brand new power steering rack. Sadley one day a drunken truck driver crossed the center line and smashed into me, busted my new auto trans in half, the motor is still sitting under a tree but is now fucked from lining on its side in the rain. I now think there shit cars and wouldn't own one, I must have been mental or something, I could of had bought a cool old falcon or an HQ Kingswood cheap as then for the same price. viewtopic.php?f=18&t=33070 send complaints here By rudolphtec at 2012-04-08 By rudolphtec at 2012-04-08

You should just fix the rust holes and leave the paint how it is, its patina . someone I know found a Dodge with a flathead 6 and 3 on the tree, the engine was seized solid with age, pored some diesel down the plug holes and in 3 days it was running

Hello I have a engine block and crank and rods witch I need to measure to see if it needs boring and grinding etc, I have a book with the specs and a bore gauge but I have no idea how to use it and its old as hell. I don't have a mic to measure the crank. I am trying to do this motor up on the cheep I can fit it all in the back of my car, if someone in auckland could help?

When I was 18 I had 6 triumph 2500s at difrint times, cost about $40 or 50 to fill it, they were not bad on the petrol, for the weight of the car, i rember if you gave it full throttle the black smoke and soot comming out the exhaust was funny, would leave a shit stain on the wall.

I wonder if they can sandblast it to cut it?

I have rung a few glass places and they reckon $50+GST per window for a laminated or toughened, its probley well worth giving the morri a roof chop. No you carn't cut toughened glass, the whole thing will explode,

Hello, thanks for the offer, I was thinking of using something like that but I would realy like to have glass so it dosn't scratch

Nar its just out a bit in the corners, if i slid the new glass into place it would flex to the right shape, its very flimsy, I need something to go off.

How much is it going to cost for your window? yer I was going to try to find some with a patton as one of the frames is wonkey

Who in Auckland could make a custom flat glass windscreen for a vintage car? it a 2 peace window like louvers on a house, it would need to be some kind of safety glass I would say

I had simmler problem with my Subaru , it was a jammed thermostat, it also ran hot, Subaru are chronic for air locks in the cooling system, they are very hard to get out. Probably not your problem but something to be aware of.

Are you sure there is one missing or is there just room where one more to fit? I have always been told that with loose ball set ups you fill the race with however many balls fit then take one out to leave a gap so the balls are pressed against each over or something to that effect.. I could fit 2 more in, but like you say its good to leave a gap or they won't work,

I fixed it, that spacer was jammed in the wrong place, made a new shim for the bottom plate and it seems to work fine now, thank you all for the links with the photos.

Super cheep has copper oil pressure gauge line with the gland nuts and tails soldered on ready to go if your missing the fittings.

Cool thank you, I can just make out in that diagram the spacer isn't there, I will report back tomorrow with my findings.

Yes I will try to find a exploded diagram to see where everything goes, and do the final ajustments with it in the car. The top cap has been rubbed cause someone shoved that spacer in there

In the photo I can see that spacer thing sitting on the rag in the bottom left, its sitting with the shims for that bottom cap, I think it may be to space the bottom ball race up,

I think its the opposite, I have something extra, I striped the whole box down, there is one ball bearing missing from one of the races, did a dry build with out that spacer and it works mint. Have no idea why someone would put it there.

You can see on the cover where is is hitting the ribs, the steering would lock up and you would have to give it a good hard wrench to free it up, some bastard and glued it on

Hello I have a 64 Kombi bus with steering witch jambs every now then, I pulled the steering box apart and found some funny thinhs, I think someone has glued a spacer somewhere where it souldn't go, you can see in my pic its was on the selector shaft, if any one could identify where that spacer should go would be good.