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Posted
On 02/05/2024 at 10:45, dmulally said:

I use this as my fuse/relay block seeing as I'm lucky to even have a heater fan let alone a stereo. I don't need much. 

These are the shit, I have two in my Corolla, one replacing the engine bay fuse/relay box and one specifically for the ECU under the dash.

554bcdf5451e851614989f43f319cb28.thumb.jpeg.5657deeba513214253578b8b8e6dc94f.jpeg

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Posted

I just used Ali ones and they have been fine so far. 

But I cant give commentary on if they stand the test of time or whatever. 

However the crimp terminals have all been nice. 

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Posted

My 2c would be use the Ali housing and genuine pins for power stuff(sensors I'd send it with alix pins) . Seen the Ali pins etc not be tight enough for higher currents and get a bit melty 

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 23/08/2021 at 18:09, vk327 said:

got a list of a few places I frequent 

msel.co.nz

techflex.co.nz

bmotorsports.com

eficonnection.com

racespeconline.com

efihardware.com

having accounts with local auto electrical wholesalers means I can access a lot locally, but not easy to get in the door there.

also check out on facebook motorsport wiring alliance for tips and ideas, best advise practise on small thing like bikes and sub harnesses that  are easy to redo before diving had first into a whole engine loom

Braid sleeving always looks good and is quiet cost effective and easy to work with

 

On 09/05/2025 at 08:50, GARDRB said:

These are the shit, I have two in my Corolla, one replacing the engine bay fuse/relay box and one specifically for the ECU under the dash.

 

On 09/05/2025 at 09:00, Roman said:

I just used Ali ones and they have been fine so far. 

But I cant give commentary on if they stand the test of time or whatever. 

However the crimp terminals have all been nice. 

 

Hey guys, whats the going rate for 4awg cable in NZ atm? price per M or for a roll.

I am still working out how much ill need but id say id need at least 10m (may 5 of red 5 of black etc) but still working it out

Just trying to decide if I buy locally or not

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Not worth a thread on it's own.

I have to do some wiring on the M57 and eventually rewire the Mk X from scratch.

Has society advanced enough that there is a faster way to solder wires together that isn't AI bullshit and actually works? 

Or am I doing things the old fashioned way with soldering iron? Which I dont mind but just curious. 

Pic attached of what I'm dealing with. 

Screenshot_20260825-120924.png

Posted

Strip, tin, solder and heatshrink still works. Reliable and relatively unobtrusive if you are halfway neat with the procedure. If you stagger the joins you can usually hide the lot under a section of larger black heatshrink.
Ali and Temu have some nice wire holders that mean you don't have to have 3 hands, and a soldering iron with the right sized tip and a good cradle for the iron helps. I have a wet sponge on my Weller that I clean the tip with as required.

Probably all sorts of crimp terminals that will do the job, I only use them when I may have to disconnect things in the future.

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Posted

You can get these heat shrink tubes with a solder ring in them that melts as you heat shrink the tube. Don't have that much faith in them as I had one come apart, though it was the old copper wire that didn't solder probably due to the oxides on the wire. I did use some flux but the wire probably just dosen't get hot enough to make the solder stick to it. The y seem ok on new wire so far. I always put another layer of quality heat shrink over the top as well.

You can also get the metal tubes in various sizes that crimp well and then heat shrink over them. jaycar have both but Temu etc will be much cheaper.

IMG_1118sm.JPG

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Posted
57 minutes ago, Tiger Tamer said:

You can get these heat shrink tubes with a solder ring in them that melts as you heat shrink the tube. Don't have that much faith in them.
 the wire probably just dosen't get hot enough to make the solder stick to it.

This...

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Posted
24 minutes ago, Lord Gruntfuttock said:

This...

I suppose if you used the soldering iron to get the wires hot enough and then pushed them into the tube quickly enough it would do the joint all by itself.  

Posted

Milwaukee m12 soldering iron is my best mate for not on the bench soldering jobs these days.

Don't have to worry about the extension cord being a bastard etc.

Have never had success with those tubes. Agree with the lack of heat transfer being the problem imo.

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Posted
51 minutes ago, Raizer said:

It's a super low melt solder in those things, excess heat won't do them any favours.

 

image.png.444349a2a03daa0e21244b3ff53dbda1.png

Never used these. What are they called so I can give em a try please and thankyou. 

Do the need a special tool? Sure dont need to get a new tool 🤭

Posted

Boys at work still solder and heatshrink pretty much everything. I've heard mixed reviews of those heatshrink/solder thingies. Usually try to steer people away from them tbh. Tidy solder job and some fabric tape or braided sleeve is the go I reckon.

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Posted
52 minutes ago, dmulally said:

Never used these. What are they called so I can give em a try please and thankyou. 

Do the need a special tool? Sure dont need to get a new tool 🤭

Non-insulated butt crimps.

Can get cheap ratchet tools for them from AliExpress for about $20.

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Posted

I've been in the splice and join brigade for a long time, but I have to think these days fresh wire and new terminals for existing plugs would be my go-to if possible.  Eliminate those joins where you can.

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Posted

non insulated butt connectors   and some decent heat shrink over top, is the way to go.  

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Posted
9 hours ago, Raizer said:

Non-insulated butt crimps.

Can get cheap ratchet tools for them from AliExpress for about $20.

Like these? 

Screenshot_20260826-063049.png

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