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Bigport 4age barrys apply here


kpr
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yep,  lighter internals,  better head better cams.     You can thank the 4agze for creating the  bigport redtop turd. seems to me they did the changes to suit the 4agze,  then just made the na engines the same with a piston swap.

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Fark wee skidded the shit outa that Blue top, never killed it I remember one Bathurst day being given shit by the v8 boys que a 4th gear on the limiter burnout till both tyres popped.

Outa of interest you wouldn't know were I could find a RWD thermostat housing? The one currently in my shed has corroded into nothing. 

I've been reading a bit on the web about the 4age cooling systems the car I'm doing some work on has no heater so has the rear head sensor block connected straight to the heater water pump feed I'm thinking this could Create a radiator bypass? What's ya thoughts? What did ya do in ya starlet or ya truck?

Awesome videos and info by the way!!!

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no leads on housing sorry

Yeah you are right.   it needs to go to the top outlet,  or block it.  since the water isn't being cooled by the heater core.   I just run mine blocked off if no heater, as thats essentially what the heater valve does.   
some people say the head cools better if return it back to the top outlet / radiator.  but haven't had the motivation to try it myself

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On 18/04/2021 at 21:57, kpr said:

no leads on housing sorry

Yeah you are right.   it needs to go to the top outlet,  or block it.  since the water isn't being cooled by the heater core.   I just run mine blocked off if no heater, as thats essentially what the heater valve does.   
some people say the head cools better if return it back to the top outlet / radiator.  but haven't had the motivation to try it myself

Sweet as, ill block it off. At the moment it's going from the rear head sensor block straight into the rear of the water pump, I didnt even think when doing it years back but now someone has mentioned it what a fark up haha.

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After all this testing are you going to produce the ultimate budget N/A 4age build guide?

I'm considering putting another one in a project car coming up, yep they are getting on a bit but I like them!!

In ya experience what would ya start with and what would ya do to it to get ok power without breaking the bank N/A wise? Or is it just easier to go down the turbo route? But I'm picking thats lots more dollars!

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1 hour ago, rusty360 said:

After all this testing are you going to produce the ultimate budget N/A 4age build guide?

I'm considering putting another one in a project car coming up, yep they are getting on a bit but I like them!!

In ya experience what would ya start with and what would ya do to it to get ok power without breaking the bank N/A wise? Or is it just easier to go down the turbo route? But I'm picking thats lots more dollars!

Not really going to do a guide as such.  more showing what can be done with the right parts.  As some of the parts im using or the equivalent  of cant be brought off the shelf or fit in any chassis.    one thing in the wrong place on a na setup can turn the whole thing into a turd that doesn't work.    depends what you call ok power.   but I think I already built said budget engine.  which was the engine before i swapped the bigport head onto this one.  basically a smallport block and head with a few little tweaks to head. 193b cams and good bolt ons 130kw at wheels on a good day.  Im just messing with a bigport head atm to see if can get same results as the smallport. 

turbo definitely easier, make more power and run nicer.  

 

 

1 hour ago, UTERUS said:

@kpr have you got any thoughts of cold (fridge temp) vs hot (50 ish?) petrol?

cant say ive tested it, but old mate's on engine masters seemed to get decent results from running cooler fuel.    I have my fuel rail pretty well insulated from the head for that reason

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if just want a little more power can turbo the na engines.     otherwise yeh ze.   although they are just the same as the na engines of same year bar pistons.  so a piston swap = ze engine.

I would suggest doing a basic rebuild on whatever you use.  pretty much every 4age dies by running a big end.

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8 hours ago, kpr said:

if just want a little more power can turbo the na engines.     otherwise yeh ze.   although they are just the same as the na engines of same year bar pistons.  so a piston swap = ze engine.

I would suggest doing a basic rebuild on whatever you use.  pretty much every 4age dies by running a big end.

Yep been there played that game the old number 3 big end fail!!

Thanks for all the info!!!

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hmm yeh the usual not everything as it seems.   The dyno sheet  has a 1.20 tcf.   which im pretty sure is the correction factor they have added.   so the 290kw is more like engine power, not wheel power. but 1.2 is pretty generous  for drive line loss. 

heres about what it would look like in kw at wheels.   I overlayed a run from my turbo setup at 16psi.  which shows how yuck the power curve is also

junk.thumb.png.8761d2097d2f64ab347e0773eba70713.png

 

 

 

 

 

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^was cool till  said it was  1900cc  9a thingy. 

Just finished putting this on the  junker engine today.   Its the early bigport head. have modified the  ports  and chambers.  mostly around valve area.    its all just straight off the die grinder finish, because polishing and making it look pretty is a waste of my life.     initial run up today looks like have made some improvements,  as required bit more fuel 5500rpm onwards

a.thumb.jpg.ac2daa49f1878866d27ff997b329061f.jpg

b.thumb.jpg.f41ec8d39409c2b73c2e0cd9028b71a0.jpg

 

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So  bigport head vs smallport

The smallport head has bit less work and 10 year ago me porting.  so at a disadvantage.   I think it will have a little bit  in it over the bigport if same same.   But pretty interesting  to see how close they are all the way through.   same bolt-ons & cams.

blue smallport
red bigport

281179801_smallportbluebigportred.thumb.jpg.8f5200056cc960e97cba20971a481a2e.jpg

 

 

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