Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted July 23, 2022 Author Popular Post Posted July 23, 2022 just waiting on some wristpin circlips .. then I'll be able to put the test of the bottom end together. pistons cleaned up , all rings gapped ,oil squirters cleaned and pressure valves checked. the crank is all in now and turns nicely (that's a relief) 10 Quote
d.p.n.s Posted July 31, 2022 Author Posted July 31, 2022 wrist pin circlips turned up the other day. I then managed to put the rods and pistons together. and just using the old bearing I put the piston in and marked where and how much I need to clearance the piston skirts for the oil squirters... once that was all done I put new rings and bearing in.... lubed her up and put them in for good ..as well as the squirters. I then did some more measuring and just just using a 1mm (compressed) head gasket with 92mm bore (might be able to find something else). and working off what the internet says the head combustion chamber is(haven't actually measured mine yet).. that put the compression ratio at 8.622-1 .. so will take what I need off the head to bump that up to 9-1 or 9.5-1. cheers 8 Quote
d.p.n.s Posted July 31, 2022 Author Posted July 31, 2022 also dug out some bits and mocked another motor up as my nephew asked me to have a play with a sc14 he bought .. (also something I've been die to play with for years now). just slapped a alternator bracket on the intake side and put a bolt in to hold the SC .... all ways looks bigger on the motor.. I'm thinking .. mounted on the intake side , fixed vbelt pulley (not sure on size yet). side draft carburetor and pipe into factory manifold.. 8 Quote
BlownCorona Posted August 1, 2022 Posted August 1, 2022 ive got a pretty nice party pulley that came on the crowns sc14 and made like 17psi. since the crown wasnt intercooled it just made heat and no power. could go good on this... 1 Quote
d.p.n.s Posted August 5, 2022 Author Posted August 5, 2022 On 01/08/2022 at 20:01, BlownCorona said: ive got a pretty nice party pulley that came on the crowns sc14 and made like 17psi. since the crown wasnt intercooled it just made heat and no power. could go good on this... is it muilty ribbed (Pk I think) pulley?. not sure if I'm going to put a fixed V belt pulley on yet.. just need to work out a decent pulley size.. cheers Quote
BlownCorona Posted August 6, 2022 Posted August 6, 2022 yeah oem 4pk (i think) multi rib. about 80mm 1 Quote
d.p.n.s Posted August 6, 2022 Author Posted August 6, 2022 1 hour ago, BlownCorona said: yeah oem 4pk (i think) multi rib. about 80mm that's ok mate .. going to run V belt Quote
d.p.n.s Posted August 6, 2022 Author Posted August 6, 2022 so some stuff I ordered for my motor has now been lost somewhere in the world ...so I'm a tad over it now.. so decided to play around with the supercharger (for my nephew)on a spare motor.. 1st thing was to take the inlet side pipe and put it on the outlet side (just slotted some holes and removed a stud for that). made some basic mounts and plates to be able to weld to. sorted a location infront of the inlet manifold and above the dizzy.(will need to go a little higher).. now the outlet can just go to pipe straight onto the inlet manifold (where carb was). join them with a silicone joiner. Going to run a side draft on the intake side of the sc14 (actually thinking SU carbs). found a twin belt crank pulley from a sierra (timing marks are the same ). going to run a v belt so on the hunt for a late 80s early 90s sigma/magna aircon pulley.. and will make a tensioner. as for my motor .. parts I ordered are now lost somewhere....so I'm a tad over it. cheers 8 Quote
d.p.n.s Posted August 20, 2022 Author Posted August 20, 2022 so far so good... thats about as far as I'm going with the exhaust ports.. no holes so that's a win for me. 4 Quote
d.p.n.s Posted August 21, 2022 Author Posted August 21, 2022 on the nephew's mk5.. I wanted to change the Sc14 pulley to v belt .. just for ease as the crank pulley is also V belt... and it looks more oldschool..I had a pulley the perfect size so I too the sc14 main pulley shaft and the v belt pulley over to a mate. ha him lathe down the sc14 pulley to 46mm. and make the hole in the v belt 28mm.. so that the v belt pulley can go on from the back and the 46mm on the sc14 would fit into the front of the v belt...... I know what I mean made them super tight fit ... so had to press them together will throw a tack weld in the 3 old bolt holes still got to remove some of the IL magnet stuff of the sc14 ... but that should work... and the crank pulley and SC pulley now should see the sc14 hit 10,000rpm when the motor hits 6200rpm. 8 Quote
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted September 11, 2022 Author Popular Post Posted September 11, 2022 well dues to postage issues and time delays I'm not going to have this running and tuned but end of next month.. so I have decided to pull her apart and paint her now instead of next year sometime.. just do it now and once she is all together and running she's all done just need to get legal.. as for colour I allways wanted green like ford furniture green .. but then started looking at dark metallic browns ... and yhe fucking bang just like that ..a xu1 torana pulled out of a petrol station last week and sat behind me .... and I instantly thought that's a stunning green.. so I got the paint and supplies to start the job.. 1970s holden lime green metallic I also decided I need more room in the garage to be able to start doing body work and pull all the panels off the car. moving the white to the back of the garage was the best way... been years since a cover was pulled off this one. and after a shit load of hours this weekend I'm almost trade to start pulling panels off. body does need a fair amount of work but I won't be digging to deep. 10 Quote
d.p.n.s Posted September 14, 2022 Author Posted September 14, 2022 Got the engine bay stripped out this evening.. Bunch of holes I would like to weld up ... and maybe paint strip it. Not removing any interior so try and keep it all masked up and as clean as I can... once doors are removed. 7 Quote
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted September 17, 2022 Author Popular Post Posted September 17, 2022 grab a tin of paint stripper yesterday and set to work.. got a spare rocket cover and a cam cover I'll have to modify done. then I started on the engine bay.. there was a few volours on the slam panel.. factory primer ,factory blue ,then red then white primer and finally black.. but not in the engine bay itsself.. I know that it sat in a panel ship for 8 years and they may have done shit as the engine bay was just the white primer and then black... there was some bog over holes..so ill cut some rust out and the go from there but all in all bloody clean... not paint striping the lot as I'm going to spray some areas with underseal. 13 Quote
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted October 1, 2022 Author Popular Post Posted October 1, 2022 had some parts finally arrive and with some parts that arrived last month and the fact I've given up on the gasket set and head gasket ever showing up..... I but the bullet and grabbed a gasket set from palmside (will look for another head gasket later on.....the one from palmside is fine for a standard rebuild... but maybe not for what I want). so cleaned and area up and cranked on with the bottome end. *new main oil gallery plugs *new stainless frost plugs *burtons block btrather *1600 xflow OIL filter *new spigot bearing *new seals and gaskets. and that most of the bottom end together now.and all wrapped back up and put away.. should really Crack on with the head....and body work. cheers 10 Quote
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted October 2, 2022 Author Popular Post Posted October 2, 2022 working in and around household and life in general duties I got the inlet ports of the head done... you can see on this section of head how thin it is around that back of the port and where I went through on the last on.... (don't worry about my feet I had my safety jandles on most of the day.) and this is the area I was paranoid about going through at the opening...as I had to open the ends up to match the adapter plate. but that's as far as I'm willing to go. tried to get them as even as possible. and with the plate on 17 Quote
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted October 16, 2022 Author Popular Post Posted October 16, 2022 borrowed a mates valves seat cutters and thought it's about time I learnt/ had a go. took some cutting but big valves all in I then got a vivid and cokothe cut face in and lapped the valves. you can see by the black how much I can now open the port upto for the new seat I only got as far as getting #4 done but it certainly opens it and and I was also able to remove heaps more from the inlet port floor where it falls off to the valve seat. opened to valve seats compared to just cut and a shot inside the ports. still got 3 more to do and some cleaning ... then I'll be able to measure the CC and decided how much I want off the head. 18 Quote
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted November 12, 2022 Author Popular Post Posted November 12, 2022 feels like it's been ages..... but with work,family ,house ,blah blah....I've been busy. I've got my nephews mk5 back for some TLC..... looks perfect now sitting on the 13x7 hotwires I cleaned up for him and his brand new 215/50/13 tyres he's having troiwith fuses blowing and the stereo working and not working.... so I decided to remove all wiring for things that arnt factory and re wire them.. wires out new wires ,relays ,battary terminal and all cleaned up and working again. dog supervised it was all done and working well when he said ....." so did you figure out why the hazards lights,horn and washer bottle don't work.... I checked the fuse (they all go to the same one) and ut just blows as soon as I put a fuse even close to it... so out it all came....removed the complete loom just down to the drivers sill. found a perfect condition factory fash speaker (never seen one before) I also found once I started removing the loom tape and tra ing the wires from the fuse that blows...burnt out wires ..from back of ciggy lighter and interior light. all working and back together ready for wof this Tues over the past month I have been working on my body work as well. driver front gaurd sanded down ,rust cut out and welded up,dents removed ,and all primed in max fill primer ready for final sand. passenger gaurd straightened, dents removed ,sanded and in final primer. bonnet has had dents removed ,drivers front edge straightened and both top and bottom in final primer. engine bay cleaned up ,rust work done and all sanded and in final primer..as well as front panel and scuttle panel. and finally I've been struggling getting the valves lapped in by hand and so I bought an air tool for the job.......that turned up yesterday so I made a start. the valves and valve seats came up spot on and I checked sealing as I went through them...and kept going until it did make a seal. once all done I put all valves in and filled all ports with meths and left it sitting...... so after 4 hours there has not even been 1 drop... so ill take that as a win just need to borrow a mates Walter white chemistry set to measure the combustion chambers.. and then figout how much to get the head skimmed... and then it will be cam time.... cheers 16 Quote
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted November 19, 2022 Author Popular Post Posted November 19, 2022 . so today I've been spending time measuring and I'm glad I did.. I measured the combustion chambers (internet said around 47cc factory).. this head has had a skim at somepoint and I got. #1 - 43.1 #2 - 43.4 #3 - 42.8 #4 - 42.9. not sure what is a good tolerance to have between them. measure the dish in the pistons (internet said 19cc -20cc depending on yb cosyears). all of mine came it at 16cc. all that I ended up with 8.873-1 CR I'm after about 9-1 CR so that means if I got the head skimmed 0.2mm that will give me 9.043-1 and if skimmed 0.3mm that will give me 9.131-1 I put some rockers on inlet and exhaust on #1 and also slipped a standard cam in to check some clearances.. inlet lift was 9.73mm and exhaust lift was 9.52mm.. I sacrificed a head gasket and slapped the head on ( with some bluetack ) to see if anything is touching now.... the head gasket squished was 1.67mm (obviously torqued down cold ...but to 85 ft lb) the head gaskets I will be using will be 1.3mm squished. . I realized I had missed an opportunity to see how much room I DO have between valve and piston.... so I stacket up the bluetac and bolted the head down again and put the belt back on.... turns out I've still got about 6mm to play with. so far so good nothing is touching ... so next will be to contact Mr PK at kennelly cams . cheers 12 Quote
d.p.n.s Posted November 20, 2022 Author Posted November 20, 2022 so my mate mentioned to me this morning to see if I can clean up #3 and #4 chamber and get them I bit closer the #2. that made me go and check them again and I found out that #2 was 44.3 and not 43.4 (yup I measured them,looked at them ,and wrote them down..... so yes I screwed myself up lol). so I spent the morning measuring and die grinding and measuring and grinding whike trying to go go through anywhere. but I did get them to #1 44.2cc #2 44.3cc #3 44.1cc #4 44.1cc that's about as close as I'm willing to go... the last 2 took some work.. pics in order. 9 Quote
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted December 7, 2022 Author Popular Post Posted December 7, 2022 i got all 4 doors sanded down masked and primed.. to be honest the doors are fucking mint.... no sign of any rust.. last was the boot.. I know this had a huge dent right on the curve... I know this as I'm the idiot who did it.. I managed to bash most of it out and then some good old bog and primed top and bottom and last to do is the shell 11 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.