D.P.N.S the other mk3

d.p.n.s · May 1, 2022

another picture less update sorry..

we had another play with things on Saturday.. wasn't getting anywhere again... we stopped went through it all again and again.... and then Simon said ...what about the plugs ?

I told him they were new last weekend..so we thought fuck it ... I grabbed a set of old shitty plugs (pretty sure they came out of the motor in the old rusty wagon).... we slapped them in and she fired up.... only for a few seconds but she fired up...

I can't tell you the feelings I had when she started..... just gave me instant hope that I had done things right ....was like a massive weight of my shoulders....

still heaps to do but I know now it will work..

massive thanks to @Stufor the basic tune to make it run....

cheers.

d.p.n.s · May 7, 2022

had a wee play today..

moved the trigger 2 wheel around a bit so it's not to close to the crank trigger missing tooth.

put some new plugs in gapped to 25tho. change a setting on the injector fuel main from sequential to batch fired...(after reading up a bit more the 36-1 on trigger 2 is a bad fay of doing it.. it just needs to be 1 tooth and that will help it sync better) ..so ill pull the pulley off and cut all the teeth off apart from one and put it all back together and try and get sequential injection to work.....

but hay in the mean time this happened

d.p.n.s · May 8, 2022

pulled the crank and cam triggers off..
from what I've read and other have confirmed the 36-1 trigger is really hard to sync with a 36-1 crank trigger...
so the car runs and even if I unplug the cam sensor it still runs as the injectors are being group fired.. but I want sequential so the answer is to have just 1 tooth on the cam trigger ....
so I'm just going to cut another 34 teeth of yhe wheel and go with that..

once I have the rigger sorted and the intercooler piping (ordered today) in place then I'll be able to start tuning it properly...

but she runs.... huge weight of my shoulders.

d.p.n.s · May 9, 2022

well I cut all the bar 1 tooth of the cam sensor..changed trigger 2 sync mode to CAM PULSE WINDOW and then just set that to 50°
and she's now running both DRIECT SPARK and SEQUENTIAL INJECTION.

she basically a modern engine now with classic pinto oil leeks.. haha

not much else I can do till I make intercooler piping (and our postal service dictates when I get the stuff)...

but even at idle the air coming out of the turbo is pretty significant.

also set the water pump temp to 70° ..
engine temp got up to 68° water pump kicked in...temp got to 71° fan kicked in and bought temp down to 65° in no time....
so I'm happy with the coolant system. RX2 70mm thick radiator, 14" fan in shroud ,electric waterpimp...

on a side note ... heater was awesome within minutes.

cheers

d.p.n.s · May 14, 2022

had bits turn up for the intercooler piping.. just had to male a flange and weld the piping where I needed it from the turbo outlet.

so apart from the speedo cable and hose for overflow tank that's everything that needs to go in the engine bay......its bloody busy in there now.

was doing a wee bit of tuning today and getting the motor upto temp ..

then when I shut it off and had lunch.. come back in the garage and found this

so it looks like the motor is coming before tuning now..

I'm not sure if it's anything major or just some leaks... the motor is an unknown and didn't cost me much $$$$$ it was only to get it all set up and tuned ..

put I'll pull it and see what's what and go from there.

d.p.n.s · May 15, 2022

took a couple of hours ...but the motor ame out.. not all that hard and mostly complete.

there are a few things...leaking.
*both sump and rocker gaskets are weeping ..(rear of the sump seems pretty bad)( left rear of the rocker cover is pretty bad.)...may be another reason for the sump gasket ....get to that later.
I did put a full gasket set through it in October 2020 but it's sat dry till about a month ago.
*the clamp on the oil return had had slipped down and so had the hose and kinked it a bit (not sure if it's enough to stop oil flowing..maybe another reason for that ...) also might need a restrictor in the oil feed line
*oil on the block from the crank breather (may be another issue causing that )
..
* the main thing is I lost about a litre + on the floor..the oil cool and lines were full... and I only put 4l in.... and drained 5 out...that smelt a lot like fuel... so I think the 1st few days of fucking around with ecu setup ..it pumped so much fuel into it that it filled the sump... enough for the gasket to leak....the turbo drain to be blocked ..

so replace a few gaskets and try again...

there are a few things I wanted to do anyway and would have been easier the motor out... so 2 birds 1 stone.

d.p.n.s · May 16, 2022

pulled the sump off ...found
*gasket was fucked ..
*sump was full of crap (petrol must have cleaned the motor as I cleaned the sump last time I had it apart).
*motor is clean...oil pick up is clean .
*sump.must have been full as there was what looks like airated oil up the front of the sump (not bowl) from where it was churned up by the crank... 4x800cc injectors may have filled the bores on a few occasions.
*pulled a main cap (didn't get a pic ) pulled a couple of big end caps and they seem ok.

also found oil in the bellhousing and you can see a stain on the steering shaft and oil on that side ... so I'm going to say 90% of it came from seal letting go at the rear and oil coming out the turbo drain.

so on conclusion.....slap a new sump gasket in ,, a new rocker cover gasket and go again... lol

got a few other things to do while it's out ..

d.p.n.s · May 17, 2022

few .ore bits done..
*battary box mounted ,factory jack and a wheel brace and boot cleaned.
*passenger door on , door card cleaned and also put on door (need to find a set of oldschool-ish speaker covers to cover the holes).

*sump back on motor with new gasket..
*new oil Drain from turbo done.
*tightened all the bolts around the turbo I struggling get up with motor in the car.
*made the block breather fit better and now it sealed
*put a bracket on for the dipstick tube.

*pulled the coolant temp sensor out of the ba k of the head and put a new frost plug in... it was a good idea but a pain in the arse ti get to and when I pulled it out you could see it was starting to weep any way....
Could find anywhere to put the temp sensore other than where tha bung is at the rear of the exhaust side of the block..(will need a small heat shel).. I no its not ideal to have ut in the ocean and head is best ... but it's not really doing much ..the electric water pump has its own temp sensor in the top rad hose and that controls pump and fan (takes care of all the cooling ).

d.p.n.s · May 23, 2022

git a few bits done while engine was out... new rocker cover gasket .. some P clips to hold oil feed for turbo out the way

small heat sheld to help keep the heat away from the coolant temp sensor I moved to the black.

made a small sheld to keep heater hoses out the way and tucked back on the firewall

has a small vibration in the steering system.. turnout being the Bush that sit in the fire wall and the column slides through it.. ended up being a ass of a job.

got the motor all back in.. nice to know she comes out and in ....with little hassle

extended the temp sensor wires

moved the mountings on the heat sheld... gave me a wee bit more room around the manifold

hoses tucked out the way

back on the wheels.. now.

I also removed the oilcooler setup as the oil light would flicker so I wonder if it was low on pressure because of the cooler..

I'll grab some new oil and filter this week and then hopefully get back to tuning on Saturday....if the motor holds up.

.I dug the drivers door out and ut seems in bloody good condition.. just missing chrome surrounds (think I have a set ).

and missing door handle ..found the one from the rusty old wagon but uts broke.. (might have ti steel it from the white mk3 for now)

on a side note ... about 5 months ago I ordered some LS1 coil boots and terminals.... but actually gave up on them ever getting here.. and just made them out of the ones I had ..

but they arrived today.. so may about better terminals.

d.p.n.s · May 25, 2022

well that might be the end of that ... for a weee while .
put new filter and oil in today... topped up the coolant..... fired her up and she is KNOCKING her poor brains out.....

I can continue putting things together ...
and maybe see what the other motors are like under the bench..... but I don't really have the funds to build a motor at this point....

d.p.n.s · June 15, 2022

hi everybody.

just to let you know where I'm at...

I've looked at the motors I have here..

and I have a plan so cunning...you could put a tail on it and call it a weasel .

just waiting on part

d.p.n.s · June 19, 2022

so things have slowed down a bit now.

was trying to get it all drivable for end of October but I was also hoping the motor I was using to set it all up ......would last ..

so wasn't factoring in a motor build . I could have found another running motor but I would have had swap the head over anyway (this one is matched to adapter plate for inlet).. and it would probably need a gasket set ... so I may as well build one....... and then I thought if I'm building one I may aswell build the one I want..

I wanted one with standard bore to start with.. and out of the other 3 motors I have I have 1x 2.1 bottom end 1x .50 over bottom end and 1 that will need crank ground as run bearing had fucked it ....

so the last motor was the one in the car ......out it came

pulled it apart and pulled the head off...so far so good .. original size SOHC pistons . (what a great sight).

so at the moment I'm just doing a whole bunch of waiting ...for funds and parts.

but in the mean time I have stripped and cleaned the block and it looks good (gave it a paint ) but all in all damage was only to big end bearings.

gave the block a quick hone and it looks good ..will give it a better one once the postions arrive and I can put a rod and piston together and see if I need the block decked.

I'm also going to have a go at porting a head myself ... I have a few heads and it turns out the best casting and condition is the head off that motor .. so I stripped it and bolted it to a mates stand (just waiting on some carbide burrs and I'll get into it).

so the plan is standard bore and stroke bottom end ,forged rods,YB cosworth pistions ,under pistion oil squiters (still researching that).higher pressure oil pump, cosworth 1.3mm head gasket , ported polished head ,bigger valves, and I'll have a talk to mate PK at kennelly cams to see if he can work some magic for me...

so just waiting on parts , money and researching

d.p.n.s · June 24, 2022

bits and pieces have arrived for the motor (still bits to come) but most importantly the pistons have ..so I can putva rod and pistion together and check the compression ratio to see if I need to deck the block..

turns out it's 8.263 -1 .. I'm pretty happy happy with that to run boost..

also huge thanks to nismo-Capri for rods... and info on porting heads... that will be next on the list . while I wait for some bit to turn up.

d.p.n.s · June 25, 2022

I made a start on the head today ( bit of work ).

the exhaust ports are going to be opened up being a turbo so I started with that side .. might just do a bit in the evenings after work..

this is a standard pinto exhaust port.

the manifold is allready matched to the gasket so I just put the gasket on the head and painted it to give me some guide lines.

and here's what I've done so far ... I'm paranoid about going through in one side where it is thin so I didn't do that much that side ... just opened it all up.. still only roughed at this point.

d.p.n.s · July 4, 2022

so I'm still waiting for parts to arrive and while I waiting I'm still working on the head and I got a notification that some bits should be here soon ish so I made a start on that job..... oil squiters.

so the yb cosworth pistons don't have oil holes around the oil ring on the pistions and use a spray bat... I would have been Allright if i had used the pinto rods and they have an oil feed at the small end ...but I'm not so I need oil squiters.

I was just going to use a yb cossy oil pump and pickup with spray bar .

but they are getting hard to find now and the cheapest I found (just the spray bar no oil pump ) Landed in nz was $750 and I'm not doing that...

so I placed an add on a cossy page for just the top/cap of the cossy oil pump and I'll just make my own spray bar as the pumps the same as the pinto.....but I got contacted by a guy in Sweden who said I should just put squiters in the block ..he explained to me how he does it in his shed in about 45min with a battery drill and pics and a write up on turbobrick forum.. he said it should work ....as the cossy had them as well.

so I did some searching and it turns out the last of the escort cosworths had oil squirter in the block .... and then that let me to a bunch of videos of people rebuild cossy motors till I ground a short section in 1 video that explains how he machines them I to cossy blocks with some measurements (cossy block pinto block same same ish).

so with my new found knowledge and the last works the crazy sweet said (have balls.....drill holes.....900hp). I thought I would have a go my self.

I found some oil squiters from a 05 mini cooper s

so the pinto has a main pil gallery running from front of motor (small frost plug)

to the ball bearing in the back

you can actually feel the tube shape

so I made a plate that bolts to main cap bolt holes marked the center of the main gallery tube and then moved the line 1mm to the outside of the block...then marked 28mm each side from the center of the main cap bolt holes and drilled some pilot holes

then I got a Lazer pen from a mate and stood it up pointing through the hole to mark on the inside of the block where I need to die grinder a bit to be able to drill.

so ones the squiters arrive and some other bits ..I'll strap the pen to a square and stand it up straight...dies grind a section flat and put a small dent in it where the drill needs to be.... then using longer drill I'll drill through the top plate and marked hole in the block (only needs to drill about 7mm) then I'll drill the hole out to 7mm and find a spot face cutter and do the surface...then tap the hole out to m8....

should be sweet ay lol

d.p.n.s · July 10, 2022

well I hadn't done much in the past week .. thought I would finish up some cleaning on the head .... and this happened

ateast I know how much is tooooo much now.

good news is I have 2 other heads ..stripped ,cleaned, and Crack tested .

bad news is I have to start again

also my oil squirters have arrived in nz ....I wonder how long they will take to get to chch from Auckland

d.p.n.s · July 11, 2022

was thinking about it all day ...so when I got home I thought fuck it... and drilled the holes in the block..
thankfully all 4 hit the main oil gallery...
Just need to cut the surface flat for the oil squirters.. ( thinking about buying a drill slightly bigger than the squirter diameter and putting it in a mates lathe ..make it glate with a 7mm tip). and then tap the holes..

d.p.n.s · July 15, 2022

some more buts arrived...

the counterbore and tap... so I could finish the oil squirters.

the only counterbore I could find was 15mm (slightly bigger than the squirter) but with a 8.4mm center .. so I just chucked it on the bench sanderbtill it was under 7mm

I then done the surface of the holes. and tapped them to M8 x 1mm

then test fitted the mini cooper s squirters

I'm fucking stocked..and it cost a fraction of the cost of the cossy spray bar..

just need to test a rod and piston so it doesn't hit and then the orientation.

d.p.n.s · July 16, 2022

couple of other jobs done.

turns out the best condition oil pump I have is the one off the motor I'm rebuilding.. pulled it apart to inspect it and there's no scoring in the housing or lid at all.

I have done a lot of research into the oil pump situation and the standard pump seems to be the best bet and just up the pressure for the fact uts feeding a rural and oil squirters..

so I drilled a hole in the pressure spring cap and popped it out and then welded the hole back up.

it seem to be the go to put 2mm -3.5mm washer under the cap to put a bit more pressure on the spring.... 3.5mm is more for people wanting to race them and rev out to 8000+rpm.

so I found a washer just under 1.2mm to go under the cap and will then add another 1mm to the out side of the cap.

all stripped and cleaned...

I then added some assembly lube and rebuild it .

I pushed the pressure spring in as far as I could and this is where I'll add another 1mm washer (once I get a gasket set and put the pick up pipe back on).