Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted July 5, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted July 5, 2020 Discussion here ahhhhh the other mk3... as some of you know i bought a parts car for my 4.1 mk3 im building ...this one when i got it. i stripped every part i needed from that car done to the loom ,nuts and bolts and even the pre facelift dash... i did put the facelift dash back into it tho. i then added some seats i had sitting around and some random wheels and sold it off to a mate as he just had to have it......it meant that i got most of the parts for my 4.1 build for nothingin the end. as it sat when i sold it. (minus lights and grill....at best it was a good rolling shell) and i did get the bonnet for it as well.. so some weeks later my mate asked if i knew any one that would buy as he just couldn't be arsed having a car around that didn't run....i knew it was a good car and just needed a facelift mk3 or a mk4 or a mk5 parts car and it could be put on the road pretty easily....as reg on hold.......(origanal black plates) registered with the mighty 1300 xflow tho......not the big block pinto....bugger... i had sold my mk2 to another mate so i bought it back.....and put it in storage and kept an eye out for a parts car..... now i had seen a few around but they had been parts cars for others and i didnt want to have to find screws ,missing nuts and bolts ect ect....i wanted something complete that had never been pulled a part..........so i could pull it apart and then i found it on trademe the almost perfect parts car for my parts car ...i say almost because it doesnt have a 1300 and manual box......its an auto pinto.. so i won the auction and the car was in invercargill i had 20 days to collect...and we did that yesterday... a mate bought a fwd fiat ducato (ex ambulance) converted to transporter on tuesday and we decided to drive it to invercargill on Saturday....so we loaded up a vc valiant to take done for his mate got up at 5am and hit the road....the lights died just after asburton ...fixed that. the auto played up going into dunedin.....fixed that (kinda) .got to invercargill and droipped the vc off....drove back out of invercargill to pick up the cortina that was 3 feilds deep off the road in a barn....no tracks just knee lengh grass and massive mud holes where the 2 hedges we had to pass were.( the guy had a tractor but it was broken down next to the cortina we only just got the fiat in there we had to gun it threw the mud full on duke of hazard style ...he showed us where it was and asked us to shut the gate and buggered off.....justb then it started pissing down we tried to air up the tyre and only got 3.....winched it onto the truck and then backed the truck under cover to strap it down....had to strap the bonnet down as well and the rear door..as well as the passenger sided doors.....then we tried to leave....but wet grass,pissing down rain,fiat fwd ,,,,no lsd or locker just the 1 tyre fryer ...took us and hour to get threw the 1st feild and didnt stop till we hit the road....broke a head light,,ripped the sump guard off .....shut the gate and headed home.the auto was having a fit....by the time we got to gay old gore we had it sussed flick it into neutraland back into drive and it would select the next gear......down shift worked ok ish.. so after 1200 ks 17.5 hours door to door its back at my mates place and here is the little sweet heart. 1 careful lady owner ..never been raced or rallied rolled bowled or arseholed...has been on the road since 84 i think i know right ...what a wee darling .but its all there on the inside and what all i need....even put a battery on and all the lights work the motor turned over but wouldnt fire....sorry about the long read but cheers 25 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted August 22, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 22, 2020 managed to arrange a mate to dig the other mk3 out and bring it home i cleaned out all the parts i pulled from the rusty wagon and had a huge cleanup in the garage its not to bad....small bit of rust in the rear valance ..not going to look to hard had it up on the forklift and the underside looks good....so the plan is to put it together and just rattlecan the bits that arnt black ........black and try and get it all legal and on the road for the new year...... miss driving a cortina or i should say miss having a cortina i can just in any time and go for a drive...so i might just start with checking the nuts and bolts in the rear end and front subframe.....then put brakes on and get them working.....then put a loom together and put that in. on a side note ...i bought a new daily driver to replace the mk5 (wanted one for agers we almost bought one brand new when we lived in the uk).... kinda glad we didnt as i would have been disappointed with the check engine light coming on everyday lol. but its a mk1 ford focus st170 ..and its fun as fuck to drive....huge brakes front and back (going to pull off and try on the cortina 300mm front 280mm rear)...quick rack steering ..recaro seats...factory 17s ..close ratio 6 speed and a cosworth played with 2.0 zetec with 170hp....the check engine light never puts it into limp mode so its cool...ive fixed most things but got one more to do... ...make you want to drive like an asshole. 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted August 23, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 23, 2020 got a few small things done today...the car is missing the battery tray and washer bottle bracket.. luckily i still had them from the white mk3..the tray wasnt in the best condition but i gave it a hammer and dolly,,wire wheel clean and a coat of paint. grabbed some rattle can gloss black and flicked in a few places (95%of the engine bay was already cleaned and gloss black)..also got the wiper mounted and the heater box mounted and sealed. also flicked the front valance in 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted August 31, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 31, 2020 got a few things done .....painted the guards and bolted them on properly , found a horn (that worked ) and bolted that on..got the grill and lights from the rusty wagon and cleaned them up ..painted the grill and light mounts..straightened one of the bumper brackets and bolted that on.....starting to look like a car......oh and some indicators thought i would pull the front subframe out and go over it .....glad i did. it was only held in with 3 bolts ..NO NUTS and 2 out of the 4 subframe to chassis bushes ...also found the steering rack to be held on with 2 bolts (same side) and 1 cut brake hose..and no sway bar mounts......just the sway bar so found 2 new bushes and 2 pretty good ones...bolted the rack on ...put some better hoses on ..found all the nuts and bolts to bolt the subframe back in and sway bar....to be honest all feels nice and tight. even bolted the brake lines on. rear end next 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted September 26, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 26, 2020 Hi all. been a bit slack lately ...due to little motivation , family life , work and the 1.3........mmmmm1.3 xflow thats been bugging me a bit more than i thought it would. I have found a few 1.3 motor to buy but i know ill be disappointed.... but i also wasn't keen to make it a bigger project than it actually is ..so by the time i put a 1.3 in the hole i could spent a couple of hundy more and get a cert......but i dont want to cert just a 2.0 ...so made the decision last week to go for a cert for a pinto turbo...(have motors and most of the bits to do it.... so this gave me some motivation and i got a few things done 1.. got all the heater bits and bobs together and went threw them all .cleaned,fixed and just made better the lot even down to foam around the heater core so no air is wasted....i then got it all in the car (not as easy as i thought as the car was preface lft and now face lift and its not a bolt in job) but its all in there ..2..got the dash loom in and all everything pluged in ..(even the glove box light)... cleaned all the dash parts and got it all back together . so the motor setup ive decided on is a pretty easy setup that i have thought of for a while and not tried. so for now a standard 2.0 pinto the manifold is one ive had for agers now a mate had made to take an evo turbo (plenty to chose from now).its a evo4 turbo on there now...internal wastage ...an intercooler to fit without hacking the front apart...3.9 falcon CPI (adapter for bolt to standard weber manifold).make a turbo hat for the top of it ...hale effect dizzy for trigger ..link atom x ecu. and coil on plug with built in ignitors.... then build a motor later on.. 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted October 6, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 6, 2020 got a small part sorted ....the EFI ....i was on the hunt for a falcon 3.9 CPI and i remembered JWG had a plan for some that are no longer needed so i grabbed one. as you can see they are pretty close to the Weber 32/36 and a mate has done this before using some adapter plates.. i just made a 8mm steel drill guide to the weber pattern and just redrilled the holes....bolted straight on. just need to make a turbo hat for it 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted October 11, 2020 Author Share Posted October 11, 2020 just a small update. the motor that is in the car at the moment is just for mocking things up ...but will eventually be the motor built for the car...it came from the rusty old wagon and has been sat since 194 and looks to have been never opened so hopefully its standard bore and standard bearings. so i dragged another motor out from under the bench to go in it and hopefully last till a build a better one...i have run this motor in my old mk5 and it went ok just had some leaks and a tappity up top.. so for the sake of $100 odd bucks ill put a full gasket and seal kit threw it....so i pulled it down to a block with crank and rods and head with complete head. i did fid the sump full off thick crappy looking oil and the pick up was pretty badly blocked so i pulled the pick up and pump off and cleaned them out.....and then cleaned the cam spray bar as well.. i cleand the gasket areas and gave it a paint (have decided not to go the normal black or ford blue as i allways do.)...painted the block in aluminum sliver.....might even paint some other bits in a anodized purple ive had sitting around for a while.. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted October 17, 2020 Author Share Posted October 17, 2020 well i got the motor ("will do for now motor" completely standard) stripped down and cleaned i did end up checking the main bearings and they seem like they might last a bit as long as it has oil...so thats good. cleaned all the parts and only ended up replacing all the seals and gaskets...put an old thermostat in it (only done 600ks) i did drill a 6mm hole in the face of it as that seems to help things . put an old water pump back on as well as timing belt and tensioner again all done only 600-1000ks.....re done the valve clearance ..drilled a welded an oil return in the sump (with a small hood over the hole on the inside).....stripped and cleaned the falcon CPI and then paint it in some wanky wanky purple......i dont hate it and i think it will look good. cars staying black and getting a set of standard wheels with hub caps on it so perfect amount of im a wanker for it... i got the oil return sorted and i also found a water pipe kit that seems like it may work ....the hoses in the cortina normally go..water pump - heater - auto choke on carb -inlet manifold...should i go waterpump - turbo - heater - inlet manifold.? also need to sort an oil feed... 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted October 26, 2020 Author Share Posted October 26, 2020 bit more done on the black mk3... got the engine bay loom all in ( with new mounting points...all removed by previous owner).. park.head.and high beam lights work now...wipers.( both speeds.) and starter. heater is down an earth and no bulbs to try indicators yet... not bad considering rear half of the loom is missing where i had to cut it ........figure the front out and then make the rear from there its never had a loom since iv had it and the lights and loom from the rusty old sat since 84 wagon.......make it very steve kings christine like 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted October 31, 2020 Author Share Posted October 31, 2020 well that was an exercise in patience.. I'm not the best with wiring but I do enjoy the challenge and problem solving side of it... but what I thought would be a couple if hours this morning splicing one loom into the other ended up being 8 hours....but most of that is the fact that no bulbs worked in any of the housings I had....so I had to pull apart and clean every terminal included the fuse holder.. but 3 part looms later....the list of things working is better. heater , wipers (both speeds....I know flash guy) , dash lights , glove box light , park lights (front and back ) headings and high beam , reversing lights and brake lights..oh and number plate light and horn. just need to sort indicators out.....got them to work from hazard switch but not from stalk...( horn and high beam work on the stalk........might just be the stalk ). even got the intercooler in.. (bit tight but once I make some tabs to bolt the rad supports to it will be perfect. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted November 28, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 28, 2020 was starting to button things up on the old girl and noticed the wiper mounts lose ..tried to tighten them but they wouldn't ....so out come the heater again the wiper and the panels to get to the wiper mounts them selfs only to find no washers or anything ...so i had a look at the wipers on the white one and ended up steeling the parts from them.. i had the ends of the intercooler cut down and some 90 reducers welded on the end..so not it fits better ; i painted it black and finished the mounts of so it all in and secure i had to cut the ends of the radiator supports off to be able to put the intercooler in ..i made and welded some tabs back on and slapped some riv nuts in modified the rad supports and added some tabs and riv nuts rad supports bolt back on and the rad can bolt back up in the factory spot with a nice air gap as well between intercooler and radiator never know its there....perfect 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted April 5, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 5, 2021 hhmmm page 6 ay... pretty slack. sorry for lack of updates but in my defense i haven't done any work ...at all on them...due to a small health issue and my body letting me down on more than 2 occasions .. and i have taken this year off the cars to get some stuff done around the house.....and if i try and do that and find time to work on cars ill just get fucked off...so year off. the cars are still there i have been playing with pintos tho as less room and just keeps my mind ticking over. i had sorted the falcon CPI for fuel injection and was starting to make a hat for that for boost. .....but ive had a nissan gtir inlet sitting on the shelf that i was planning on using on my focus.....but it got the better of me and i had to see.....(now it does need some cleaning up and i need to do some port matching but this was all by hand with a battary drill...and the socket head bolts cost more than the inlet manifold0 i had a pinto gasket and i made a cardboard one for the gtir..they do share a common bolt hole so that was enough for me. i had some 10mm alloy so i sorted the pinto part first. once i port match the head it will be fine....only had a 44mm hole saw then sorted the gtir side tryed it on the turbo motor......looks awesome.....love it i just need to find a better tool to port match gtir to pinto and back and find a fuel rail and maybe some bracing .....and thats good to go. cheers 22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted May 7, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 7, 2021 was thinking about temp sensor for the ecu and where to put it.. couldn't put iy in the factory position as the factory sensor was there for dash temp gauge.. thought about the hole in the head between #3 and #4 inlet port but there is no way with the linkages for the inlet manifold... so then i thought about the frost plug at the rea of the head...there is about 30mm from the rear of the head and the fire wall and when i popped the plug out and measured the depth i had ..that was 60mm from head surface to 34 cylinder wall...........and the temp sensor itself is 60mm long. soooo i garbed a new front plug....gutted it and got some thick pipe and cut that to size and then a washer.....welded it all up and fucking back.......sorted.. andits about 10mm of the cylinder wall. and as paranoid as i am with it leaking and being in a spot that the motor will have to come out if it does....i plasty dipped it twice. tapped it into place and it should be fine. also trimmed the adapter plate for factory temp sensor. .port matched it to the inlet manifold.. port matched the head to the adapter plate (will do for now ...this motor is to only get it all running..i don't have hope for it lasting long)..gave to surfaces some belt sander love ..some lock tight on the socket head screw.....a gasket and some extra sealant and bolted it on the last time .....(well till she epode's ) cheers 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted May 15, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 15, 2021 i got a few things ticked off the list today. trigger 1..i bought a 36-1 trigger wheel for the pinto but it bolted in front of the pulley and i didnt like the look of it ...so i made the hole bigger and mounted it on the back...just a few tacks for now till the sensors turn up and i decide where to mount them. then it was on to trigger 2..i bought a 63mm 36-1 trigger wheel as it was just small enough to fit inside the pinto dizzy buuuuut.....didnt even think about the dizzy to inlet manifold being a problem....well it turns out it is. i thought about cuttng it down but remembered i had a xd falcon dizzy on the shelf that i had gutted and used with a drill to pump oil around the 4.1 in the other cortina. turns out it fits the hole in the block for the dizzy and it a wee bit smaller .so i trimmed all the stuff not needed off it and made a slot on the side to be able to bolt it down...i then cut the pinto dizzy shaft down and made a bush for it in the falcon dixy....made a mount to bolt the wheel to and all done...)will make a cap when the sensors turn up and i sort out mounting)....was told i could just use a 1 tooth wheel so see how the sensor works with this small wheel first. both triggers in place i also stripped cleaned and rebuilt the intake manifold repositioned the dipstick got the factory vacuum all together so i can even plum the brake booster in. managed to turn the full TPS setup upside down aswell for more room. still got to sort out idle air control.....the injectors are on the way and i need to mount the coil packs and also sort out a breather for the block under the inlet manifold .....and im thinking some sort of brace for the manifold aswell. but its strating to look pretty good. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted May 16, 2021 Author Share Posted May 16, 2021 coil packs ..i went for GM/LS cop (coil on plug) with built in ignitors ..just to get things simple lol i looked at the motor for hours wondering where to mount them as the throttle linkage is in a funny place and having 4 intakes theres a lot of moving parts and i had to think about wiring as well. so ended up with this. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted May 22, 2021 Author Share Posted May 22, 2021 had a few bits turn up...wastegate actuator .. could find a good 2nd hand evo actuator so i just bought a universal one with a differant spring for alllllllll the boost the only real problem i had was the evo actuator must be mounted real low judging buy the flap arm movement.. so i just cut the arm off locked the flap shut and the welded the arm back on in a better place...then made a bracket for the actuator . the gauge for the FPR turned up so got that sorted. and the injectors i was told that evo injectors will fit the gtir fuel rale and work in the manifold well. so i found a set of denso 800cc injectors for an evo 1-8. they are 2nd hand but have been cleaned tested and flow matched and come with new plugs and was less than a 2nd hand set of untested factpry gtir injectors. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted May 23, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 23, 2021 few things done today. god the old diff out and rebuild LSD aussie diff in with rear swaybar..just need to sort some shocks and get the drums and rear shoes done.. l decided to put the springs in that came in the white mk3 in as they seemed lower ...not sure what make they are bur not cut and totally different to standard spring way harder and as it turn out 55mm-60mm lower i also thought i would try the wheels i have. now these rims arnt normally the sort of thing i would buy buuuuuut i wanted 15x7 .4x108 and 0 offset and these are just one of those .....but blood cheap and brand new..so i bought them as they are 15x7 but have fwd offset and 4x100 stud pattern so with some adapters could make the fit perfect ...and they were so cheap. and as a mate is finding out there may be a lot of 15x7 rims in 4x108 with0 offest about ...but no one has stock....so i tried them and to be honest i like it. and made a start on the fuel tank.....just basically did what i did with my other mk3 but no drop tank and i keep the wheel well BA rx6t intank pump...some plate with welded nuts on the back....made sure it wouldnt stuff with factory sender and cut a hole...,tank looks to be in good condition just has to bash some dents out...got a few small parts to cut and weld in and tack some spaceres to the top of the tank so the fuel pump doesnt hit the floor 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted June 13, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 13, 2021 ive had a issues with the wiring from time to time....sometimes it all works .others just some of it.... it doesnt really help that most of the loom is from the rusty old wagon and the rest is made up of 2 other part looms. it doesnt help that its old and sat in a car unused since 1984 .but i need to know the wiring is all good and up to the job before i go any further .. so im going to get rid of these. and replace it with a hot rod /universal wiring kit (its not really its just a fuse box with wires) so i pulled it all out again....removed the engine bay side of it for now and started to focus on the just the main loom. once i started peeling all the old loom tape off it started to show some treats so ive been doing this over the past couple of weekends trying to get it all sorted and see what's what and how it all works before i remove all the old fuse boxs and label what i need . while i was making sure it all worked and going through each wire i couldnt get the fuel gauge to work at all..tried 3 senders and jumping the wire and nothing...pulled the gauge itself out to clean it and found the small needle was stuck behind the small screw at empty lol.......few hours of my life i will never get back. all sorted and working 100%before i add fuse box i left it over night and thought about it somemore ....then in the morning i ripped all the wires from the fuse box and made it work. and then went through it all from the 100th time...made sure i had added extr wiers for all the extras and removed all the stuff un needed.. added wire to move fuse box into glove box (as i will with ecu and wide band gauge....and the wrapped it 70m of loom tape and last bit found some oldschool 3 gauge set for 15 bucks and bought them.....sanded the chrome and painted it matt black......and all wires are in the new loom. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post d.p.n.s Posted June 20, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 20, 2021 i did a few things. the 3 little gauge set have this real nice clean white back light and the dash is pretty crap..so i did some searching and found some T10 wedge LEDs. lovely clean light i tried them and it was much better but still pretty dark so i removed these things as well made heaps of difference.........lights before and after i also uncover the white mk3 as i wanted to take the subframe out and use it as it saves me having to strip clean and rebuild another subframe just yet. i left the motor in place and just pulled it at least i know this has new bushes,ball joint,tierods and wheel bearings with a rebuilt rack. and with the same springs i used in the back and even without a motor in it it lowered the front of the black one by 60mm. i also dug out the gearbox ...replaced the out put shaft seal put a new clutch fork with new thrust bearing in,,cleaned up an old flywheel and used a clutch and pressure plate iv had here for w while and bolted it all up to the motor and put it in the hole.......and it fits 9the tightest part is the inlet plenum to top of the subframe......but it should be fine. and some pics i got even have room for a 70mm thick rad and fan. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted June 27, 2021 Author Share Posted June 27, 2021 small job done as i start finalizing things as it goes back together in the car getting ready for wiring. IACV idle air control valve ...this is something i wanted in place ..so i found a factory GTIR one but it wasnt working so i pulled it a part and cleaned it and now its good...nice and simple 2 wire on off job. it has another like pressure switch on it as well that i dont need but when i removed it it allowed air to bleed ...so i just put it back in. it has 3 pipes and1 is just a constant air flow so i cut it off ..jammed a bolt in the hold ..cut the head off and added a bolt through the side to keep it all in place....works fine. and just using stuff i have around the garage i got it all together ..its not the prettiest . ..but it is on the underside of the manifold . 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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