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D.P.N.S the other mk3


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few more items 

the bonnet lock... I did have 3 different types but I now believe I've given them all away......... and the break anyway... sooooo I bent a bit of rod ... welded ut to the wire lock thingy that's really hard to get in and out and even harder when you weld some more length to it.

but now it's like an early mk1 escort ...finger in the grill and push it sideways to relate bonnet...



I made some braces for the inlet manifold as its pretty heavy and sticks out a bit


very good condition 2nd hand shocks .. the aussie diff has eye to pin and the normal cortina eye to eye... so just had to drill a hole out a bit for bigger bolt and space them out a wee bit..... but the front shocks are so nice to swap out .......all you have to do is.....fuck all.




I must have fixed the leak in the diff ...turns out the old interwebs may be right... weeeeeereps out the splines on the pinion and some Sealant with fix that just before you put the nut back on....also topped up the lsd fluids. 

even filled the gearbox with new ool.

I bought some random bits from alliexpress finest catalog. 

a cheap shitty turbo back for a evo . and a random 2.5" down pipe .. and with a small 2.5" bend I managed to make a down pipe.

I double wrapped it in heat wrap to cover up my welds and there is so much going on in that area I need to try and keep Temps down.





that allowed me to put the wideband o2 sensor in.... and use the tool I made because I have a focus with 2 sensors in real Cunty places....I  also had to sane the connector down to fit through a bulkhead hoke and not drill an other




also got some coolant hoses in

rad to heater , heater to adapter  ,adapter to turbo , turbo to EWP sensor housing  as well as rad to EWP , EWP to motor in ( also made that to replace factory water pump) , motor out (made that to replace thermostat housing), to EWP temp sensor housing  , and then back into the rad.



I wrapped the clutch cable in heat wrap and mig wire to help stop it melting and got that in



as you can shit is getting tight around this side of the motor now... will look at heat shelds once every  thing  is in.


and my mate is replacing his exhaust on his Valiant wagon with 2.25 so he gave me his old 2.5 system...perfect for what I need and free is a great price



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so after work today I got the fuel lines fixed to the shell and the fuel feed and return fubber hose parts done by the fuel tank....

I was about to start looking at making heat shelds ....... and then much like the sound of the ice cream van to my girls...... I heard the sliding door of a courier....and in her hands was the trigger wheel I've been waiting for ..... so I stopped what I was doing and had a look to see if it will fit and not hit on anything.......pretty fucking sweet.

found some washers to center it on the idler pulley bolt..
had to move one sensor out... and one sensor in (that also needed the bracket to be cut out so I can use lock nut).
I will be able to tack it on ....on the inside edge.
but all in all I'm happy with that looks like it will work .... so I can look at getting it all tacked up and on the motor.20220314_153338.jpg.d04f785b52147eca96ffd616596857d1.jpg








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so on Thursday I turned on the EWP and started to check the coolant system

so after that 1st test on Saturday I.....

1.swapped out the fitting for coolant line out of turbo to EWP temp sensor housing.. from an airline fitting (I know....I know) 1/2 x1./4 bop to a barbed 1/2 x 1/2 bsp .. also put sealing on it one threded..and threaded it in.



2. bottomed bracket with 90°elbow ( where water pump normally would be). pulled it off and swapped out the m4 screws for m4 bolts to be able to tighten it that little bit more. ( and also get 2 more bolts under the elbow...



3.went through and swapped all clamps out for TRIDON ones.

I've had the water pump running for 5mins now and no leaks .... so thats a huge win and also coolant system  DONE.... the best news is that temp sensor that I put in the frost pug in the back of the head (I know.... I fucking know).... isn't even weeping.. 



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there is no way to make the heat sheld look good apart from maybe ....remove booster , go remote booster and do a heap  more brake pipes...... NOT intrested at that so I just made this one...it is so tight between booster and turbo /manifold flange..
but it's a sheet of alloy with like a stick on material on the hot side and I also put one on the back but added strips of exhaust wrap under it around the brake pipe/master cylinder area..... so hopefully  it should do the job..

but it's all very  tight on the drivers side and I still have an intercooler pipe to go in there.....but there is room.






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so being Easter Monday yesterday and nothing being open I wasn't going to get an email with my link ecu unlock code so I did a few other things.

finished making a set of HT leads out of a new set for a falcon I had sitting around ..

knocked up a section of exhaust just to go from down pipe v band to about the rear doors of the car with 1 small muffler  (just to make it a vital quieter).

put the bonnet on for the first time since I've owned the car ....its in pretty good condition just was what looks like 80grit sand marks in it lol.

added a geat sheld to it and also manage to lift the back of it a bit with the adjustment on the hingers...should help with removing heat from the engine bay.







this just in ..... git and email with link unlock code...

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17 hours ago, d.p.n.s said:

Then I tried the TPS and set that up but the values are the wrong way around  for some reason ... wide open is low voltage and closed is hig voltage. .. (not sure if it will work that way around or not will look more into it tonight.).

Whoops.. Soz



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