D.P.N.S the other mk3

[d.p.n.s]

new shoes on and pulled her out for some pics.... not hoping to lie ...pretty stocked .

 

 

 

[d.p.n.s]

I mocked a motor up (no pistons ,rod ,sump ect ect ) just things I need to k ow what room I have purely because it's easy to work on than through the rad hole in the front..

 

while I've been working away there have been a few things I've thought about and would like to change ... one of them is the home trigger/signal I made from falcon and pinto dizzy

reason being is its right under the inlet manifold and I know all the shit that would have to be disconnected or removed ....just to get the inlet manifold off if I had to do something with the dizzy..

so I removed it and just cut down a old pinto dizzy and slapped a cap on ut for now....only job now is running oil pump. 

I bought another bigger 36-1 trigger wheel like the one I'm using for the crank trigger (still waiting for it to arrive) and I've git enough room to mount it on the face of the aux pulley... the 2 triggers should  run close but not hit...

so I took the opportunity to move the crank sensor over to the same side and mount both sensors to 1 plate...easy to get to....easy to work on.....better.

will sort them out distance wise and put back on the other motor once the trigger wheel has arrived.

I also got made the water IN that will replace the factory waterpump.

I also put a fitting in the waterpump temp sensor housing that sits in the top rad hose... that will be for water out of the turbo.

 

and that's it for now....more shut ticked off the list.

 

[d.p.n.s]

some.more small things done.

the radiator sits lower than factory and there is some holes and I've been thinking about making some holes in the front ri help with air flow and cooling..... so but the bullet and did it.. went 50mm holes and around the same length as number plate.. so nit really noticeable but with the chin spoiler good air flow..

I also figured if I push the clamp on the air filter all the way up I can cut about 10mm of that and ut will fit better where I had it with the round lights..... worked a treat.

I also made a bit off alloy to help flow air to the intercooler  and through the rad.... not to worried about the other side as what does go through the oil cooler goes to the air filter anyway...

and number plate bolted on.

[d.p.n.s]

few more items 

the bonnet lock... I did have 3 different types but I now believe I've given them all away......... and the break anyway... sooooo I bent a bit of rod ... welded ut to the wire lock thingy that's really hard to get in and out and even harder when you weld some more length to it.

but now it's like an early mk1 escort ...finger in the grill and push it sideways to relate bonnet...

I made some braces for the inlet manifold as its pretty heavy and sticks out a bit

very good condition 2nd hand shocks .. the aussie diff has eye to pin and the normal cortina eye to eye... so just had to drill a hole out a bit for bigger bolt and space them out a wee bit..... but the front shocks are so nice to swap out .......all you have to do is.....fuck all.

I must have fixed the leak in the diff ...turns out the old interwebs may be right... weeeeeereps out the splines on the pinion and some Sealant with fix that just before you put the nut back on....also topped up the lsd fluids. 

even filled the gearbox with new ool.

I bought some random bits from alliexpress finest catalog. 

a cheap shitty turbo back for a evo . and a random 2.5" down pipe .. and with a small 2.5" bend I managed to make a down pipe.

I double wrapped it in heat wrap to cover up my welds and there is so much going on in that area I need to try and keep Temps down.

that allowed me to put the wideband o2 sensor in.... and use the tool I made because I have a focus with 2 sensors in real Cunty places....I  also had to sane the connector down to fit through a bulkhead hoke and not drill an other

also got some coolant hoses in

rad to heater , heater to adapter  ,adapter to turbo , turbo to EWP sensor housing  as well as rad to EWP , EWP to motor in ( also made that to replace factory water pump) , motor out (made that to replace thermostat housing), to EWP temp sensor housing  , and then back into the rad.

I wrapped the clutch cable in heat wrap and mig wire to help stop it melting and got that in

as you can shit is getting tight around this side of the motor now... will look at heat shelds once every  thing  is in.

and my mate is replacing his exhaust on his Valiant wagon with 2.25 so he gave me his old 2.5 system...perfect for what I need and free is a great price

[d.p.n.s]

so after work today I got the fuel lines fixed to the shell and the fuel feed and return fubber hose parts done by the fuel tank....

I was about to start looking at making heat shelds ....... and then much like the sound of the ice cream van to my girls...... I heard the sliding door of a courier....and in her hands was the trigger wheel I've been waiting for ..... so I stopped what I was doing and had a look to see if it will fit and not hit on anything.......pretty fucking sweet.

found some washers to center it on the idler pulley bolt..
had to move one sensor out... and one sensor in (that also needed the bracket to be cut out so I can use lock nut).
I will be able to tack it on ....on the inside edge.
but all in all I'm happy with that looks like it will work .... so I can look at getting it all tacked up and on the motor.

 

[d.p.n.s]

so on Thursday I turned on the EWP and started to check the coolant system

so after that 1st test on Saturday I.....

1.swapped out the fitting for coolant line out of turbo to EWP temp sensor housing.. from an airline fitting (I know....I know) 1/2 x1./4 bop to a barbed 1/2 x 1/2 bsp .. also put sealing on it one threded..and threaded it in.

 

2. bottomed bracket with 90°elbow ( where water pump normally would be). pulled it off and swapped out the m4 screws for m4 bolts to be able to tighten it that little bit more. ( and also get 2 more bolts under the elbow...

 

3.went through and swapped all clamps out for TRIDON ones.

I've had the water pump running for 5mins now and no leaks .... so thats a huge win and also coolant system  DONE.... the best news is that temp sensor that I put in the frost pug in the back of the head (I know.... I fucking know).... isn't even weeping.. 

 

 

[d.p.n.s]

I've been waiting on some bits to trun up ...as per the norm at the moment...shit takes awhile. 

so I thought I would Crack on and get a few over buts ticked of the list..

one of the buts I'm waiting for is a cam belt...(few bits I can't get on till that's here).

worked and and welded up both triggers.. at TDC I put the crank trigger 90° to the sensor and the cam trigger 180° to its sensor.. 1 thing Zac told me when I was annoying him with questions was just make sure they don't trigger at the same time... so I figcarnk turns 2 times to cam so that way they shouldn't. 

next was the accelerator..

I used the factory cortina outer and a suitable new inner....

made a bracket that used the mount on top of cam cover  (and while I had the cover off I drilled a hole and welded a bolt there to help support the bracket).

put a pedal in the car and madebthat end work and now have a complete adjustable accelerator pedal.

next was to do something about the factory BOV on the plenum...(not going to run a BOV).. so I dropped a washer in...welded it up ...trimmed to down (to clear ALT)  and even sealed it up for good measure. 

inlet plenum on for good now

that allowed me to make a bracket for the FPR and mount that..... and that inturn let me complete the fuel system by attaching the hoses 

I also bought a MAC 3 port boost solenoid. 

added a Deutch connector 

made a bracket and mounted that as well as putting a boost reference into the compressor  housing 

I need some proper vacuum hose.

and when I do the ecu I'm going to put a on/off switch on the 12v so when uts off it's just wastegate pressure and then on will be what ever is set in the ecu...

also on the subject of wiring I'm trying to have ago at all this by myself... I really want to learn it all and also be able to troubleshoot if I have issues so I watched a lot of HP academy  videos and made a plan of what I want .. ( it is only a Link atom x but is is also only 4 cylinders).  I would like sequential injection, direct spark,MAP,TPS,IACV,boost control, crank trigger,cam trigger ,shift light,coolant temp,air temp,4 injectors, 4 COP (built in ingnitors),hook up MTX-L wideband o2 to ecu,.fuel pump

so after doing 1 drawing and getting my head around what I need ...and then doing a cleaner better drawing  and posting it on a link ecu FB page for help ... the only suggestion I got was being a 4 cylinder I won't need an injector relay just run on main switched power... so that good.... so I did an updated drawing ..and I I'm honest the more I draw ut out the more I understand...

so here is the plan for the ecu    ... just need to get some more supplies and I'll.make a start....

 

 

[d.p.n.s]

there is no way to make the heat sheld look good apart from maybe ....remove booster , go remote booster and do a heap  more brake pipes...... NOT intrested at that so I just made this one...it is so tight between booster and turbo /manifold flange..
but it's a sheet of alloy with like a stick on material on the hot side and I also put one on the back but added strips of exhaust wrap under it around the brake pipe/master cylinder area..... so hopefully  it should do the job..

but it's all very  tight on the drivers side and I still have an intercooler pipe to go in there.....but there is room.

 

[d.p.n.s]

also...... what are some ways of getting heat out of from under the bonnet.

I think I'll lift the back of the bonnet up a weeeeeeeee bit but I'm not going to put vent in it.

[d.p.n.s]

got a few things done this week.

1st was the oil filter .. the pinto one hots the plug end of the IACV.

so I did some professional googling and found the xflow has the same 70mm diameter seal but is only 80mm in diameter and the pinto was 92mm.

getting to the oil filter is a weeeee bit harder now .. just need to get in from the aide behind the passenger front wheel

also filled it with new oil... the new cam belt turned up with the filter and oil so I I put that on with all the timing marks spot on......that then allowed me to be able to bolt the crank and home triggerwheels on.

I had noticed a few things when I was under the car... one of them being the drive shaft wasn't sitting right and the rear drifeshaft hoop needs modification to be able to get an exhaust past it...... so out they came  ( luckily out and back in without having to remove the full interior to get to the bolts ).

once I had the hoop out I tacked it to some steel

cut a section out

and remade it... the bottom section can still be removed and bolted back on...

and that should allow some room for a sneaky exhaust.

the issue with the drivshaft was the flange on the front section close to the center bearing was hitting the center bearing ... I made new slotted tabs and welded them back on.

I then left those bolt lose while the rest of the drive shaft was in place . and I jacked the diff up and from full drop to all the way up the center bearing moves about 20mm...

so with the diff all the way up I tightened the center bolts and that flange had about 5 mm clearance  and on full drop about 10mm ..so that seems to of fixed that.

back to the motor I bolted the trigger sensors on and gapped them

I had to tighten them up and had bugger all room so I modified  a old spanner with a fucked socket.

and with the sensors now on I can put the fan and shroud back on ( still waiting on a smaller fan belt tho)

made a bracket and mounted the coil packs 

started working out ht lead length and tried the heat sleeves

and today I started on the eco harness.

apart from mounting the Map sensor  I'm pretty sure everything is all in the engine bay.

this is about all I need I believe....

( I am excited and nervous about doing this but I want to have a go and I've got some knowledgeable people I can ask when stuck).

removed all the wires from the harness I don't need

I untangled the loom so it's clean sorted and none crossed over.... I also found a spot in the firewall for a hole and started to run the loom out.

still got to mount relays and run powers and earth's.. ect ect but I'll take my time

 

[d.p.n.s]

when I got home from work yesterday I started again and rerouted the wires..

I just need to add ignition +from the fuel box to the engine bay side for the main relay.... and the signal and positive  for the boost solenoid out the drives side.... but that is all the engine bay wires run.....

I am really starting to get my head around it and the HP academy videos have helped a lot...

 

[d.p.n.s]

few wire to run inside and 2 relays in the engine bay .... but thats the main harness done ,checked and wrapped

 

[d.p.n.s]

so that the engine side of the ecu all wired up and plugged in .. relays done for ecu main and coil packs...

on advice from a mate I ran all 4 ITB runners to 1 vacuum manifold and ran FPR and MAP of that and I also ran brake booster aswell... so thats all vacume hoses done aswell..

still need to run wire to boost switch, boost solenoid  , wideband o2 ,.. put a relay in the boot and wire fuel pump...and put ends on spark plug leads.... oh and get spark plugs... but then it might be time to try and fire the old girl up..

 

[d.p.n.s]

didn't even open the door to that garage last week....

but pulled finger and got some shit done today..

the fuel system is now done and tested ..fuel pressure set to 45psi.. and no leaks.

finished up the wiring .*fuel pump relay and trigger * boost controller and switch for low and high boost *shift light * wideband o2 and also wired it to ecu... cleaned it all up .......and even plugged the laptop in to check for ecu....that works but I need an unlock code ... lol bought it 2 years ago and now just using ut so I fired an email off to nzefi and hopefully they can send me one..

 

[d.p.n.s]

so being Easter Monday yesterday and nothing being open I wasn't going to get an email with my link ecu unlock code so I did a few other things.

finished making a set of HT leads out of a new set for a falcon I had sitting around ..

knocked up a section of exhaust just to go from down pipe v band to about the rear doors of the car with 1 small muffler  (just to make it a vital quieter).

put the bonnet on for the first time since I've owned the car ....its in pretty good condition just was what looks like 80grit sand marks in it lol.

added a geat sheld to it and also manage to lift the back of it a bit with the adjustment on the hingers...should help with removing heat from the engine bay.

 

this just in ..... git and email with link unlock code...

[d.p.n.s]

time to learn something new

 

[d.p.n.s]

well my brain hurts....

got the unlock code and didn't do much yesterday as I got roped into the decorating that's going on in my daughter's bedroom... so that was annoying .

I did watch a few more YouTube videos on setting up the ecu last night and had a go today for a few hours..

I down loaded the new updates and saved it there and then started a new setup and I'm saving that as testing.. (so if I fuck things up I can just go back and load the one saved after update.).
So I have managed to ..
*setup and test the coils (they work).
*setup and test the injectors (they work.
*set up and test boost controller..(it works but havnt set any figures in there yet).
*setup and test shift light (same as above works but no extra figures added.
*setup and test ISCV (works but havnt set any think els up with that).

*set and and tested TPS and MAP sensors.
tried to calibrate them but both came back with a fault code ... did some searching and most common answer with map sensor is its broken.... so I left it and had a look at TPS (throttle position) and when I was moving it the values on the MAP sensor where changing ..now the MAP and TPS where allready marked out in the loom with the 3 wires needed for them each  and a tag at the end starting what ut was for and what wire was what... tours out they git the tags wrong so I just swapped them over on pc link and then ran and other calibration on the MAP and ut came as fine .. so cleared that fault code..
Then I tried the TPS and set that up but the values are the wrong way around  for some reason ... wide open is low voltage and closed is hig voltage. .. (not sure if it will work that way around or not will look more into it tonight.).

*set up fuel pump aswell and started looking at  cutting up triggers... but thats where I left it..

think for tring to set base timing I might pull the plugs out as well so no compression so it should turn over easier as it's still old motor old starter motor hard cranking..

but yes my brain hurts..

[yetchh]

17 hours ago, d.p.n.s said:

Then I tried the TPS and set that up but the values are the wrong way around  for some reason ... wide open is low voltage and closed is hig voltage. .. (not sure if it will work that way around or not will look more into it tonight.).

Whoops.. Soz

 

 

[d.p.n.s]

small update ..
*I have managed to set base timing.. and I belive also sync cam trigger.
*I have fixed the TPS problem ( tried a few things in the pc link setup...but ended up just swapping 12v and sensore ground over).

I think this may be my limit and were I'm going to need help setting up maps and trying to fire her up.... so ill have a chat to my mate tonight and see if he can talk me through it or even come and help me..

but she's closer than see was 3days ago.

cheers

[d.p.n.s]

soooo

one of our .embers STU offered to help with setting things up so I sent him the file and he sent it back with enough things in place to get the old girl to fire up...(once again thanks for that mate it is greatly appreciated).

sooo a mate and my self had a play with things to see if we could get it to start on Saturday...

The good news for me is the wiring is all good
( I did have all the relays running off switch 12v and the ecu was losing signal with laptop on hrad cranking .... so I had to run a wire from battary to ecu main power relay then turned on with key 12v).
but we have been able to see things are working even managed to see that both triggers   are doing as they should..

the bad news is I stuffed up the actual timing on the motor when I slapped the new cam belt on ..I wanted the motor to be at about 10° as ointos love to start there and I had put a nice clean whit mark on  the pulley......but 2 things...I had then stupid set the crank timing mark to that white mark and not 0°.... now also as we found out (going through this last night ). I had also put that white mark on 12° and not 10° and that in turn had put the cam out about 6°... THAT IS ALL MY FUCK UP but when I set the base timing it seems I was bang on....its just the motor was way out...so that kinda had shit out of wack
the basic tune a STU on old school had done for me is almost there... but there just seems to be something missing... it will cough and splutter ..

so we are going to just start from scratch again and make sure it's all working and try again....(not sure when ..my brain needs a break)

the old starter motor had to have a few smacks with the small heavy hammer.... the band new battles had a work out of turning a motor over for 2 days...

so that the situation....... it is all new for me and I'm learning  (and I want to ...to know how ut all works.....there's a reason why tuners charge so much to set shit up)...

but the motor is 100% right (now lol ) and the ecu wiring is right (one back fire cased a fire in the inlet and caught the inlet temp sensor on fire lol)..

cheers if you read all of that