Popular Post ThePog Posted November 30, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 30, 2021 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted December 16, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 16, 2021 And here sits the single most expensive part of the entire process; 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidewaysickness Posted December 16, 2021 Share Posted December 16, 2021 I like how there's a choady cock and balls on each piston, Its very fitting 5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted December 16, 2021 Author Share Posted December 16, 2021 11 minutes ago, sidewaysickness said: I like how there's a choady cock and balls on each piston, Its very fitting I shall rest my choady cock and balls in each one, in your memory. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted December 16, 2021 Author Share Posted December 16, 2021 Started disassembly tonight, I had planned ahead some time ago to make it relatively easy to drop it out the bottom, we shall see how that works out. The forklift is an absolutely key item in this endeavor.... Edit; I should have listened to @mjrstar and rebuilt that turbo - I noticed some oil in the intake piping when pulling it out. I have the name of the local turbo guru so I might drop it off to see what the story is. Engine rebuild guy had suggested doing this regardless.... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted December 16, 2021 Share Posted December 16, 2021 Smart fella like yourself will have it done in a couple of hours. It's been a while but I think they might be left hand thread for compressor nut. https://turbobits.co.nz/products/mitsubishi-td05hr-turbo-rebuild-repair-kit-lancer-evo-4-5-6-7-8-9-4g63t Just mark the compressor wheel to nut to shaft orientation before you start, and make sure it turns freely when you are done. Plus if you have clocked either of the housings from the oem pinned positions mark these too to make life easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted December 16, 2021 Author Share Posted December 16, 2021 50 minutes ago, mjrstar said: Smart fella like yourself will have it done in a couple of hours. It's been a while but I think they might be left hand thread for compressor nut. https://turbobits.co.nz/products/mitsubishi-td05hr-turbo-rebuild-repair-kit-lancer-evo-4-5-6-7-8-9-4g63t Just mark the compressor wheel to nut to shaft orientation before you start, and make sure it turns freely when you are done. Plus if you have clocked either of the housings from the oem pinned positions mark these too to make life easy. Yea I'll get an opinion but probably do it myself... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted December 17, 2021 Author Share Posted December 17, 2021 9 hours ago, mjrstar said: Smart fella like yourself will have it done in a couple of hours. It's been a while but I think they might be left hand thread for compressor nut. https://turbobits.co.nz/products/mitsubishi-td05hr-turbo-rebuild-repair-kit-lancer-evo-4-5-6-7-8-9-4g63t Just mark the compressor wheel to nut to shaft orientation before you start, and make sure it turns freely when you are done. Plus if you have clocked either of the housings from the oem pinned positions mark these too to make life easy. Took it to the turbo man just now, he thinks it's fine. The oil is almost certainly from the crank breather rather than an issue with the turbo itself. He was a font of useful info, I pumped him for half an hour or so... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted December 17, 2021 Share Posted December 17, 2021 Sounds like a sealed catch can in the breather line should do the trick. My Hiace was oiling up the intake and boost pipe etc (also blowing out the fucked seals in the old throttlebody) Now I just drain about 100ml of oil from the tank whenever I do the oil and filter, intake is still spotless almost a year later. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted December 17, 2021 Author Share Posted December 17, 2021 7 minutes ago, Raizer said: Sounds like a sealed catch can in the breather line should do the trick. My Hiace was oiling up the intake and boost pipe etc (also blowing out the fucked seals in the old throttlebody) Now I just drain about 100ml of oil from the tank whenever I do the oil and filter, intake is still spotless almost a year later. Yea thats the go, I'll make a can over the hols... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted December 17, 2021 Share Posted December 17, 2021 On 16/12/2021 at 14:59, sidewaysickness said: I like how there's a choady cock and balls on each piston, Its very fitting Japanese spec choad... Sorry.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted December 19, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 19, 2021 Right, time to start the process. Firstly I had to make something with wheels to lower the engine onto that could withstand the 650 odd kg of chunk. That would mean I could roll it out after lifting the truck up. I bought 6x 100kg castors and raided the steel rack; It was intended to go this way up so it could be lower, but I forgot to account for the swivel of the castors so I had to flip it. Should be fine.. I looks like this and is sturdy as fuck. Altho they are Mitre 10 castors and probably not really 100kg rated. We'll see. Then it was just a case of removing shit to clear the engine. There are a few more bits to do but I made a solid start over the weekend. As the turbo was ok but my engine man wanted low boost while running it in I decided to add back the weak 9ish psi actuator but in a way better position. This meant modifying the wastegate pivot arm but no biggie; I have hopefully bought an adjustable Kinugawa one off marketplace, but in the meantime I also ordered a cheap boost tap off the tard which should be ok for initial testing. The turbo man was super useful. We discussed the setup for a while, including how it seems to come on boost in a linear fashion along with the revs rather than come on hard at lower revs. He reckoned it needed more fuel to spool up faster but probably needed something to actually limit the boost. Hence the mods. When I first started freeboosting it the fuel was turned up a 1/4 turn and it went hard but was hitting 22+ psi. We talked about oil feed restriction and he said nothing needed as it was internally regulated. Good, I didn't fuck that up. He also said to remove the bungs on the water cooling jacket that I didn't use, he said its better for cooling and wouldn't matter. In other news someone on the patrol4x4 thread asked about the block as it looked like it had been decked with no liner protrusion, I checked and this was the case. The internet consensus is that it needs it or I will go through head gaskets like toilet paper, however the spec was for +0.05mm which doesn't seem a lot. However I was concerned, so I went and talked to the engine man. He reassured me that the type of liner he installed, the way better than spec Ra of the deck machining, the type of gasket supplied and the boost I intended to run meant that it would be absolutely fine. I am reassured but I guess time will tell. I'd be keen to hear more internet opinion on this /probs too late to change my mind. Anyway, maybe tomorrow I will bunk off work if not much is happening and I'll get the lump out.... 19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted December 21, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 21, 2021 I made an executive decision that it was official Xmas hols as of today, freeing up valuable time for shed based shenanigans. So after much wriggling and jiggling and removing of things I didnt really want to remove and a shit ton of coolant dropping onto the floor we have this; Holy shit it is a big donk, I forgot how massive the unit was when bolted up to the trans. I had to lift the front of the truck scarily high to get it out and the rollers are really not up to the task... I forked the main bit from/through the side door but also used the crane to support the back. This worked out pretty sweet, although after I took this pic I realised I needed to ratchet the box towards the drivers side to keep things even; I got the head off and took it to the engine man for cleaning/checking/install of the flash new double valve springs. Now it is just cleaning/painting/assembly. Holiday fun for all the family. Except its just me as my family thinks I am fucked in the head. 18 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted December 22, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 22, 2021 Gave the block a lick of paint so I can see the oil leaks better and started reassembly. I bought a parts washer a couple of months back so I have been cleaning and painting parts as i go along. I love this part. 21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted December 23, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 23, 2021 I did a chunk more yesterday so it is looking way more complete, however I probably need to pay attention to family matters for the next couple of days, or so I have been told. I am slightly mystified as the the reasons for this but I have learnt to read the signs. 19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted December 28, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 28, 2021 Well I think I have found the source of the clatter, I found this inside the rocker cover as I was cleaning things up; And the top of the tappet adjustment on the right has some wear marks on it, although it is hard to see in the pic. This feels about right for the sort of noise there was. It has only happened because I flipped the orientation of the cover so the oil fill was in a more useful position, ie it was covered by the dyna body central crossmember so wouldn't work, and it wasn't obvious that there would be an issue. I lined the bits up just now and it sticks out like a sore thumb lols. What a fucking dick. Well I was always going to put a rebuilt engine in there as the oil pressure in the old one wasn't all that, so sweet as. 20 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted December 30, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 30, 2021 Been cranking this, its surprisingly time consuming. I have been tidying a lot of stuff as i go along, ie I remade the turbo feed and drain to look less like a fudge and more like it was supposed to be there. Also I have a significant TD42 collection now. Also I steam cleaned and gave the box a lick of black zinc, its kindof like I have cared. I had a spare set of box mounts that were in better condition that the ones in there so I swapped them out. I also put a washer behind the clutch release lever arm pivot so it would release a bit more, It has always been slightly hard to get into the lower gears due to not quite enough clutch disengagement. I will be grumpy if it slips but can always make the slave mounting adjustable... 23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted January 3, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 3, 2022 Yep yep. I chucked that shit back together, tidying further as I went along. The engine loom in particular was a mess so I spent half a day reorganising that into a semblance of tidy. Having stripped the loom I realised there were two plugs the same and I hadn't noted where they went, fortunately I had noted the wire colours when doing the original wiring so it was easy to work out. I thought about a new clutch but the one I had been running was some HD thing and still had plenty of meat, back in it goes. I decided to lift from the rear this time as there was less weight and an actually decent lift point under the towbar. I also stropped it so it couldn't move off the forks. This was way more intelligent than what I did getting it out. Then just dropped it down over the top and lifted it up into place. At that point I gave up taking pics as it looked exactly like every other shot of the engine in the truck and started bolting shit back on. The assembly was laborious not only because there is a lot of shit to bolt on, but it was made a bit more tiresome due to the 28deg days we have been having. I have been constantly coated in sweat. Fortunately we have a pool and I have been making good use of it.... I replaced the fuel filter while I was in there, then once it was all ready I pumped 5 liters of oil into the engine using a priming unit that my engine man had lent me, this was great peace of mind, although I did discover a growing pool of oil under the truck, exsanguinating out of a not actually attached turbo drain. I sorted that out, resumed the priming then filled up with water. I gave it a bit of a crank and it nearly caught without any effort, so i cracked a couple of the injectors and it started right up! Oil light went out nice and quick. I then spent the next 15 minutes moving it around the rev range and checking for leaks, there didn't appear to be any, yay. It is also not pissing out any of the varieties of smoke, I will take that as another positive sign. I then went for a short and then a slightly longer drive, again all seems well. It isn't quite as lively at 9psi as it was at 15psi, but I will crank the fuel a bit to get it spooling up.. I'll check the fluids tomorrow then have another spin, the swap out the oil and filters. And probably make a catch can as I have some bits of stainless and some fitting lying around. All in all its pretty positive.... 30 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted January 4, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 4, 2022 Smashed out a catch can today... The bottom; The top; Sweet welds bro. Together and with some extra lovins; Tapped all the holes with a 1/8th BSP I found then attached the bits, including a sweet drain tap I found on an old air seperator; Then mounted it in a convenient hole; Not sure about the air fittings but if they leak I can get some right angled hydraulic fittings later. Not bad for shit I just had lying round (except the tube and the filter....) Also I warmed it up with a wee drive, then did an oil and filter change using Caltex Delo 400 MGX which all the cool TD42 kids use. And gave the fuel screw a quarter turn, its now hitting full boost at about 1800rpm. 22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ThePog Posted January 5, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 5, 2022 Well that's probably sorted. I adjusted the tappets today then went for a decent drive, it feels pretty stout even at 9psi. It's heaps quieter and smoother, plus the 2000rpm clatter is gone. I forgot to mention that I stripped all my sets of rockers, chose the best set and got the valve faces cleaned up, this means it is a shitload easier to adjust now. I haven't red lined it yet but it is clearly much happier to rev with that cam than it was before. The clutch and gears feel a lot better too. I fixed a vac leak so that might help somewhat too. There is a slow oil leak from somewhere, but this could well be remnants of the half liter or so I managed to spill all over it like a cunt while changing the oil. The leak is not bad, if it's real then maybe its the new turbo feed pipe. I'll give it a once over in the next couple of days and tighten everything. So yea, I'm still a bit wary in case I fucked something up, but it basically looks sorted. 38 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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